David
Forum Replies Created
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I really never skuffed through the base coat on the top but it would be my guess that it is galvanic steel, a fairly thin gauge. I may be wrong but aluminum and galvanic steel which I suspect is used liberally throughout the bus, is a recipe for corrosion, electrolysis if you will. With all the various AC/DC, 12V, 24V, 110V, 220V running through these buses I would be surprised that aluminum would last at all before becoming pitted with corrosion. Kind of like living under high tension lines from the Hoover Dam, that may well explain our collective fascinations with these beasts!
Alodine, nasty and undisciplined stuff, can be applied to anything metal with varying results. All AN hardware is dipped in the watery acidic brew, as it serves be to slow corrosion and etch the surface for painting and comes out looking like cheap gold (2 Carot), of course white vinegar will do mostly the same thing at a fraction of the cost and mess!
Regarding paint it is important to remember base/clear is a two part system while a single system may well include two parts, the paint and the hardener….this is all mixed with the appropriate thinner or if you prefer, reducer. On our roof’s is a two part system where the base coat or color coat is laid down first then a clear coat applied oh say 30 minutes to an hour later. The clear reacts with the base to give depth and shine and as such there is some kind of catalytic activity involving the exchange of something between the two. Should the clear leave, don’t think it would be too long before the base failed as well.
I don’t know about brushing clear or anything else on the roof. I suspect the results may be less than desirable but that’s only a guess, besides why destroy a perfectly good Purdy Brush. I think the Temp Coat is OK as long as one know that it is there and takes steps to keep the pressure washers away, but alas, the surface still needs to be properly cleaned and prepared. Henry’s Roof Coating would also probably work………….
Excuse me now, I need to go apply the ointment to all of these open sores on my body………
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq4_PGUPoIM
I just ran across this youtube of a place that Rhino Coat’s the roof. It looks interesting, has any body tried ths?
I’m getting ready to do the roof on mine and I remember on POG someone had posted a “how to” temp coat article, maybe it was just a posting. It was a while back, so I don’t remember the process but there were certian steps one had to take for it to work. Maybe Tom can jump in here, I think he has a Temp Coat?
Fred
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You forgot the safety wires…..unless they no longer use those…
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on the prevost site: use last letter of your serial number. in my case was W and last 4 didgets(6553 .So I entered W-6553. My coach is a 98 45 XLE (Entertainer) That I reconverted) The Basics should be the same but like others have said converters and previous owners and mechanics change things. In the articles section there are diagrams other than the presentation. It is hard to coach from a distance but hope it helps you to understand. Bob
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Not exhausting air as long as air is hooked up. Not sure about the yellow line, there was so much grime. I will check tommorrow. You’re right about Prevost parts … I talked with Roger Anderson to find replacement seals for the engine stop and fast idle air cylinders yesterday @ 3:00pm. They arrived at my door this afternoon at 4:00pm. Talk about good service and knowledge. Roger knew exactly what I was asking for. He must have been our age because I had talked to a younger guy that morning that didn’t have a clue. He sent me the drawing of the of the air cylinders for the belt tension. Told me to contact Detroit Prevost didn’t handle that part. After hours with WW Williams and sending a pic they didn’t make that part and told me to call MCI. Go Figure, Guess it’s all in who you talk to!
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As usual Bob gives great advice. One thing I have learned however is that while it likely left the Prevost Car factory with properly color coded air lines, do not place yourself at risk by assuming all subsequent mechanics that might have had to replace an air line observed the color coding.
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I have seen three set ups for generator start batteries. The first was no dedicated battery, but a connection to the house batteries, with a means to tie the chassis batteries into the system if thehouse batteries were depleted. The second was a single battery, charged by the generator alternator and isolated from all other coach batteries. The third was a dedicated generator battery tied into the house battery system but with an isolator in the line between the house and generator batteries so low voltage house batteries did not draw down the generator battery.
I have never seen a generator batery set up so it could be depleted by weak house batteries. There has always been an isolator or automatic disconnect bwetween the two.
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The only possible method for determining the correct tire pressures is to run the coach across the scales as soon as it is loaded with all personal effects and has full fuel and water and an empty holding tank.
Since we tend to collect “crap” I will pull across the scales every few years. My coaches all varied. The first, an 87 weighed about 41,500. The second, a 97 weighed 46,600. The current one weighs just over 53,000. Looks like our buses tend to get as fat as we do.
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Ouch…….you didn’t have to remind me did you Sandy?
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Rick,
I don’t think there is any function in the cotrol box for the heat exchanger pumps. My pumps are controlled with relays mounted on the outside of the Aqua Hot box. You can confirm this by just turning on the heat at your thermostats, the pumps will run, your heat exchanger fans will run and the Aqua Hot doesn’t have to be turned on.
I use the furnace function most of the time without the diesel on and use the hot water for heat. This worlks fine in cool temps, but if it gets real cold, the diesel is the only way to go.
You can feel the motors running and I had one that got stuck and after rapping it with a screw driver handle, away it went. They need to be run often. Assuming your thermostat is calling for heat, check the pump wiring for current, then work back upstream to the relay.
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Not familiar with your conversion, but you should have an air connection in the engine compartment, starboard side. This connection fills all air tanks including the aux. If you have a connection in the steering bay, it most likely will only supply air to the aux tank.
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If you must go, have a serious discussion of what you want and expect! Go into the room with them and follow them around.
DO NOT PERMIT ACID WASH!
JIM
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Joel.
You are correct. I used the engine as an example only in the context of the seller not being able to stand behind a product or device forever because all they can say is that it is working as intended right now.
I am directly impacted if the delamination issue has not been resolved because my coach is one that had repairs. I do not want to find out now or when it reaches 10 years of age, or far in the future the delamination issue is still a problem. I am no different from any other XLII owner. Having had 2 rivet coaches previously and used them and the Prevost service experiences I had in the past as benchmarks I would be disappointed to learn a formerly bulletproof skin design had been replaced by one of questionable worth and not supported. I am sure all XLII owners feel exactly the same.
Having lived in the corporate environment in a previous life I seriously doubt the folks at Prevost are plotting how to cheapen the coach. In fact the more I learn my coach the more content and quality I see in it compared to my previous coaches. I see the skins as a blemish on an otherwise great product. My bet is that Prevost has not turned its back on its market and they are likely as frustrated as some of their customers are. I suspect if there is a permanent fix, as durable as rivets we may all be able to put this behind us.
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Tom, I sure hope so, have not had any issues yet but with the cut off date that Prevost has maybe I should get it checked out what do you think? Gary
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This suggestion is from the perspective of a Powertech generator with a Kubota diesel engine.
Remove one end of the fuel line between the electric fuel pump and the mechanical injection pump. Power the electric pump (12vdc), does fuel flow?