David
Forum Replies Created
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Larry & Diane IN
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Different vintages and different converters had different air tank set up. My first coach had an aux tank in the steer compartment, and the next two had the aux tank over the steer axle. All of my coaches had a port on a valve assembly labeled “converter” which was where the converter could make all of the converter aux connections. Cutting into the aux system ahead of that point is a no-no.
It took me a while to learn the magic to pulling up pneumatic diagrams for my coaches but not that I know how I print “tiles” and scotch tape them together to make a very large diagram that is easy to read and follow. I think you might be able to buy one from Prevost. Not sure on that. The diagram will show the point at which the Prevost aux system and the converter’s aux systems can be connected.
If you never turn on the Jun Air all of your pneumatic devices are going to see the full aux pressure unless the supply is regulated so set the Jun Air pressure at whatever makes the devices you need when parked operate properly. Less than bus pressure is OK because it is easier on the Jun Air, so let your system requirements (such as the toilet) dictate the pressure range.
If you want the aux compressor to be capable of leveling your coach then it needs to have a cut out pressure of 120-125 which is the bus compressor cut out pressure.
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A small point: These coaches are titled the year they are sold as a conversion. Many times a 96′ is a 95 shell. Find the VIN decoder and you can determine for yourself what the nature of the beast is upon which you gaze.
All of these coaches are capable of accomplishing the same thing, ….. allowing you to travel in style at your own pace.
Personally, I have a 98 Vantare’ H345 VIP. After owning and operation a cabinet and furniture shop, I wanted nothing to do with wood. My wife was a bit tough about that, but the laminates are easy to maintain and now she is thankful for the decision.
Another small point: over in this world, you will probably find that a coach is suffering more lack of use than abuse.
Good luck! The search is another great adventure.
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Jim Thanks for offering to help. I’m sure at some point we will need a hand and when we do I’ll let you know.
We get done you way often, one of our daughters lives in Gorham. Rick
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We may be able to figure out which Diff ratio you have by
your speed and RPM, most likely your transmission has a 1:1 ratio in
5th. What is your top speed at 2100 or your speed at any RPM in 5th gear?
Your ratio probably is 3:73, it could be 3:5 something or 3:36. None of
these ratios will work very well with a 6 speed world transmission, it will
never go into 6th and maybe even 5th depending on the ratio you have. If you
want the world transmission you’ll need something like a 4:5 diff ratio to
utilize all 6 gears.Ken
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Look forward to meeting you!
If we can be of any help were just down the road a piece in Windham,Maine.
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Good points and every so often I get questions on our toad. The GMC and the Buick Enclave are very simuliar and seem to be popular.
We need to pull one 50 amp. fuse before towing or risk dead battery in about 5 hours. I did some research and NAPA sells a longer style fuse which is very easy to pull now.
Another thing interesting to read is hometown of the poster.
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I doubt that Prevost will approve such a setup. It obviously will not be within the published specification. In addition, hitches are there to tow, not to be a weight bearing platform. Why can’t people figure this out?
If Prevost did not care what people did, they would not publish a spec for the hitch.
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That’s right Sawdust. Thanks for clearing that up. I run the generator often and load it up when I do. However, concerning that subject, isn’t the opposite true as well?
Haven’t we paid big money for batteries and big money for the best inverters? Why run the generator ALL the time when we have spent all that money? If I am going to replace the batteries every five years at a huge cost, shouldn’t I use them? Two sides to every coin…
I have studied the documents you sent me, Sawdust and I do not understand as I ought but I am making progress. On your question about my inverters, both have the software update you mentioned but one of the inverters is original and the other was replaced in 2004 if my memory serves me correctly. Since they are different ages some of their default settings are different but software is the same.
DKO
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The inverters and the design are just not that smart. You are giving them way to much credit.
Keep your thinking about this simple.
You have 1 large 24VDC battery
You have 2, 24VDC appliances (inverters #1 and #2)
Anything these inverters see is at the level of the big 24VDC battery.
I sent you the Vantare’ wiring diagrams and you should be able to see that from those drawings.
If the auto start sequence doesn’t see the shift in load, it will see the drop in voltage, either way it will trigger the start gen process. I the batteries are good and have been on shore power, I suspect that you will get several hours of run time before you hit a voltage trigger.
I don’t know your air conditioners. I know that for me, a single cruise air will not trigger a gen start, if the batteries are good and have been charged. I believe that the load trigger is 20 amps and the cruise airs fall in below that at 15 amps.
You probably need to learn to use the “meters” function on these inverters. Lots of good information coming through there.
Also, refresh my memory, don’t your have a pair of sw4024’s but only one is at software update 41?
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“You are about to travel to Indy and by the time you get home you will be all smiles because you had a great opportunity to drive the bus and hang with great people (like me). You will be burning diesel fuel and you won’t have a single tail to show for it. Let me know if you don’t get it.“
Y’know, sometimes your outright humility simply amazes me … Now I have to go to the kitchen and retrieve a rag so I can wipe off all of this coffee I just spewed on my laptop.
I don’t get it.
BCO
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OK, thanks that is what I took from your last.
Are the switches I described the correct ones? If they are the two switches shown on my Prevost drawings, they should be ‘open’ until the brake treadle is pushed. The drawing also show that the cruise control will not engage with these switches ‘closed’
I looked for other circuitry that may need to be activated to allow the light to remain ‘on’ and found none.
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I think its H = 8 (as in 8th letter of the alphabet) So the formula for calculating minium repair costs is
H^3 – 45 = $465 but its really a problem of mitigating factors when it comes to repairs
H! = 8*7*6*5*4*3*2*1 = 40,320
40,320 * 3 = 120,960
120,960 – 45 (the only discount you’ll likely get) = $120,915
Yup, that seems more like it.
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The lift cannister for the tag is pricy at Prevost, I think I paid about 4000. I didn’t have the luxury of being at home so I could shop around and was on the road when it went south.
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Try going backwards