Dale
Forum Replies Created
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Bruce,
My coach will give me problems filling from driver’s side but the passenger side fill tube works fine. I think it has to do with the angle of the filler tube (one being shorter and steeper than the other).You problem may well be due to a vent being blocked.
Perhaps someone else on PC will chime in and explain the location and access to the vent line for our tanks.
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Sounds like a neutral problem Andre, but maybe someone else with
more AC knowledge will jump in here. -
It won’t get “Bubble Tight” because Hector has a new love. He looked at my bus for only a minute or so…. check out his new love.
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Sammy,
Give Prevost parts a call and get a bag of 10 relays. They are universal and will replace any or all of the black cube relays on your coach. They are dirt cheap from Prevost and for the $5 or so apiece you can replace the fan clutch relays (2 of them, listed on the door panel decal) and see if the clutch has malfuncted (a very technical term) or if the relays are getting lazy.
You did not say if it was heading past 210. If it was then it could be the clutch. I think the first speed on the fan engages at 204 on your vintage coach and 208 for the second speed. I doubt if our gauges are so accurate or easy to read so from my perspective 208, 210 looks the same on the gauge.
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I have seen this message if I had the unit running and for some reason had to restart it and I did not wait a sufficient amount of time for it to cool.
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I seriously doubt if temperatures we can function in are damaging to the coach. If the battery charge voltages are temperature adjusted or set to the low side I suspect they are OK. I would be concerned about damage to materials and adhesives in the interior if the coach were out in the sun and it was 100 plus outdoors because then interior temps can quickly reach excessive levels. But in a covered shelter I doubt if there are any concerns.
Perhaps any converters or service shops on here want to add to this?
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If this is your first Prevost conversion your pre-purchase inspection can also be your training for the new coach.
I recently sold my previous coach to Sam (he posted on another thread) and we spread the inspction and training over three days. During that time he was given all the owner’s manuals and log books. He and Kim (his wife) started at the front of the coach and we operated every switch and device inside the house. After we covered the inside of the house, Sam and I then focussed on the bays and began a full coach service. After reviewing the bays and the mechanical systems, Sam and I changed oil, filters, and did a full chassis lube.
After we completed that we moved the coach to the RV site Sam was using and Sam and I then finished up the inspection / training with hooking the coach up, checking tire pressures, operating the awnings, plus doing things we hadn’t previously done such as operate the TV. I did not keep track of the hours we spent but it was probably 15 hours total (?).
The point being Sam not only was actively involved in the total coach inspection, he was learning it as well. We went so far as to verify coach brake travel, and generally we poked our noses in every place we both could think of. Sam drove it probably a total of 70 miles.
If Sam is reading this perhaps he can offer some advice having been through coach purchase boot camp (his words).
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One more important item. While you are in there dealing with the batteries and have everything powered down, it is a good time to check all the connections on the inverters. Those inverter connections can cause you a lot of problems and drive you nutz in the process.
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DKO…
Just one last thought on that inside panel… after you remove the exterior panels try to slide that inside panel… I just remembered that several of mine slide out of the way… may also have velcro holding it to keep it from sliding… once you remove the exterior one… be a a little agressive as I’m sure it will move one way or another… as I mentioned before all our interior panels a fairly easily removed… just study it a bit first…. I’m sure it will remove… probably slide to the side. Hope so anyway…. hardest part for me is being inside the bay with 2 artificial knees… now that hurts!
Good luck.
Diane
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DKO,
I just read some of the comments and your remarks on the BCM site. Keep in mind two very important things. Someone responding with their knowledge based on a Liberty is not necessarily recognizing the differences between your Vantare and their Liberty. Two different converters with two different ways of installing and using the batteries.
As to your comment about installing fewer batteries because you go from shore power to shore power, give a lot of thought to that. 100% of your coach goes through your inverters if I understand Vantare correctly. Your electrical system doesn’t shed load when you are not connected. If there ever comes a day when you cannot access shore power or choose to not run a generator you will thank your lucky stars you have the battery capacity you now have. Our converters have all done a very good job of designing our coaches and their systems for almost all situations.
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I was just viewing your pictures and it looks like the panel next to your battery door should be removable… all our panels in our bays unscrew for “easier” access…even the ceiling ones… looks like your batteries of concern are on the right end so you should be able to access them through that next panel even though there is a narrow post there? Is that a possibility?
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Brian,
I’m lucky to be able to handle the hub cap at this point!
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I guess the main question I was trying to resolve is; can my house batteries be fully charged at the end of a 10-12 hour run down the highway? It just doesn’t seem as good of a charge as plugged in over night.
“I am upgrading to a 450 amp Niehoff C802” Does this have the ability to fully charge the house batteries in 10 hours or so?
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Scott,
I will be in Louiville for the Good Sam rally on Thursday. Should be easy to fix the gen, the problem will be running the AC with 30 amp service. You may need the gen set.