[Bob]

Davy,

Take off the door panel and remove the lock, there are threads on this site as to how to get the hardware (rectangular box) and the cylinder separated.

Recommend you take the box apart and clean out the 20 years of hard grease. Carefully note how it comes apart and put it back together again after re-greasing. The cylinder can be rotated to far and it will not pick up the slide inside the hardware box to move the deadbolt in and out.

That may be all that is required. Perhaps a new key cut as described above would have worked.

In my case I did replace the cylinder. If you need to replace it, the order code is below. I don’t recall the cost but it should be available at several on-line suppliers. Critical is the “134”. You can google the other parts number attributes to know what they are but these need to match pretty much exactly for a direct replacement. You will need to take it to a locksmith and have it keyed.

corbin-russwin-1000-134-a04-6-l4-626-mortise-cylinder

[Bob]

Ok it worked got it programmed it was definitely challenging

[Bob]

From your description it seems the dimmer module is also the on/off switch. The LEDs probably do not draw enough current for the switch to work reliably. One option would be to leave at least one G4 lamp in the circuit.

[Bob]

Looks like I’ll be headed south on Monday, John. I’ll probably wander the state for about a month. I have the bus torn up again for some projects, so I think it’ll be a road trip in the ’74 Cadillac. I’ll let you know when I hit Florida.

[Bob]

We also send you our very best wishes and we are feeling your pain. I know that doesn’t help but please know that we are sending virtual hugs!

We are having issues with a 15 YO cat and had to take him to the vet today. Quality of life issues popped up and we are fearful that a decision of that kind may have to be make.

Just remember that these loyal friends will be waiting on the other side having missed you just as much as you missed them!

[Bob]

drive shaft. Has it been removed or rehabed before problem started?

[Bob]

I use a half a container of this each fill up in the winter for extra insurance. Howes

I have seen this for as much as $24 at Love’s, Pilot and Flying J. I buy it at Rural King, Atwoods, Menards and such for under $10. I buy four or five at the beginning of winter and stay south of I-20 as much as possible in January and February.

Davy

[Bob]

Jeff:

Vibration is noticeable in floor, but most noticeable in the center of the bus in the dinette table and the shelf’s in the refrigerator shaking. A glass of water on any surface while driving shows vibration in the water, again more so in the center of the bus.

I did have Centramatics but had them removed (Centramatics refunded me the cost) after their inability to correct the vibration on the older tires. Looking back the old out of round passenger tag was the issue and once shaved the coach ran much better. Blaming the inability to balance on the Centramatics was incorrect.

Jon’s comment in this post on 12/30/2020 “Long ago I used wheel weights, but found them to be temporary” is defiantly a valid statement and a good argument to going back to Centramatics.

Chuck

[Bob]

WE are fortunate to have such loyal friends, takes a lot of time to get past their loss.

Is this your walking buddy?

[Bob]

WE are fortunate to have such loyal friends, takes a lot of time to get past their loss.

Is this your walking buddy?

[Bob]

Well we have a update . Yesterday the Genny was removed and what a job that was . I do think we found the reason she overheated with no warning . In the rear their is a overtemp sensor . seems somewhere in time she connection failed . In my opinion a clip on electrical fitting should not have been used . Kind of like using push on fitting for brake air lines , no one would do that .

Now the time has come on what to do next . Rebuild or replace . Any thoughts ?

[Bob]

So true Jon , looks like today we will remove the genny and have some answers on why she did not shut down prior to overheating and blowing the head gasket and possibly more damage . I started it with Richard and we had to apply pressure to hold the dip stick in . Not good I’m afraid .

[Bob]

Don, Jon,

I was looking at it again this morning and I do think it is leaning to the front.

I am sorry if these are stupid questions, but I am trying to figure out if I should check something else that could be causing the air to leak out of that valve with the key off. I can look at the front control solenoid/valve on the rack given it is leaning to the front. I guess the good news is I know exactly where the air is leaking. The bad news is I still haven’t figured out what would cause it to leak there. I did order the new valve to try, but since this one is new I am thinking I am missing something else.

Thanks as always for your wisdom.

[Bob]

Knob Creek? Nice! You might also want to give Woodford Reserve (or even better Woodford Double Oak) a try as see if you ever look back!

To stay on topic, our current 98 CC has NO electric heat. Our ’88 did and I find it hard to believe that CC took out this valuable option. Until we need to keep the bays warm we have added portable electric heater to keep the chill off here in TX with primary heat from the Webasto. We are in a park where we have to pay for electric so it seems the best value is the Webasto.

[Bob]

Thanks all. I always had Marathon on my list. I always enjoy a visit there.

About 2 weeks Larry.

Wave