Terry
Forum Replies Created
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No problem with my dander because for a wide variety of reasons there are many options for towing.
I do try to follow one rule and that is to only tow a vehicle listed in the FMCA magazine or the owner’s handbook as acceptable for towing 4 wheels down. Even then I try to make sure no special practices are required, such as removing a fuse or stopping every 250 miles and running the engine for a period of time.
I’m not selling anything, but the Jeep Grand Cherokee (with the correct 4WD system) has always been one of the best toads.
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David,
The RVAC unit operates just like the A/C in your home. It is very quiet, and will cool the whole coach, unless it’s 95 or hotter, then you will have to use the Cruise Air too. You should have a High boost fan to go with that RVAC unit. When you turn that on, it will really circulate the air.
Other than an abnormal Generator issue, I have not had any problems with Vantare’s electrical system. Everything goes through the inverters, and the panels are easy to operate. Just make sure your inverters are set up properly.
Good luck and have fun!
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OK. I was responding in the context of having a separate monitor for the rear camera unrelated to the radio.
I have found that having the camera able to view the hitch and tow bar valuable when pulling away after hitching up because it is a good way to verify the tow bar arms have locked and the cable and power cord are OK. After that verification it is good to be able to raise the camera to get a better view of the toad. By being able to see the toad I can verify it is safe to pull in when passing, but it also enables me to verify the steering wheel is turning when I go around a corner.
I have never been impressed with any rear view monitor because every single one has had viewing limitations. They have either washed out in the daylight, been a smear of light at night, or have been unviewable if the sun hits the monitor. If all views in the monitor could be as good as they are on an overcast day I would be happy.
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Hi,
I spent a couple of years researching buses before
purchasing my Liberty. Like most of you that have followed Jon’s advice on this
site, his wealth of knowledge (and others here too) has proven invaluable
to me. I took Jon’s “check-list” and my limited knowledge of these complicated machines and having never
owned a Prevost before, was able to find a mechanically sound and beautiful bus.
Not that I could know everything about it at the time, but I knew enough, and that was the
key. I approached it like a student and I still do. But I believe that this purchase would have been
considerably more risky for me if not for Jon’s pre-inspection
“check-list”. Of course, I had Prevost
do a PDI before purchasing as well (another one of Jon’s suggestions) and that gave me a chance to check out the undebelly of the bus too. It was a daunting feeling walking under a 22 ton vehicle, but I knew it was one of the important steps. I also knew enough that if something looked wrong or was broken to ask questions and
get it fixed, if necessary, before I took the big plunge. The guy who sold me the coach said that even as an
experienced owner/seller and long time Prevost owner himself that he had never seen any one
do such an extensive examination before me. Then, looking down at my clipboard
and “my” 18 page check list he asked me if I would get him “a copy”. Of
course I did but as you know it was just a copy/extension of Jon’s list. I
think (I’m pretty sure anyway) I told him that!I know first hand how important it is to do your research
and study as much as you can before writing that check! I will
always feel indebted to this and othere sites and to Jon,
Tom and everybody else here for all the information I’ve learned over the
years.Yours in MPD!
Fred
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Jon,
Your PDI write-up is brilliant – Thank you! Being a newb to Prevosts and as the price point for a used ’90-’94 Prevost has made first time ownership a possibility for me, your PDI recommendations are all the more crucial.Question: Can I expect all sellers both private and dealers to allow me to inspect their Prevost coaches to the degree you recommend? In other words, will most sellers allow me to stay in their coach overnight as part of the inspection process as your write-up seems to suggest?
Glenn
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10-4 on the presents and I’ll be thinking about everyone while fueling at the Seneca Indian Reservation (no tax) on the way home.
PS – Fuel in N Georgia at Q-T exit 306 off I-75 was 3.33.
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I think I have a clearer picture. If I understand correctly the coach has a “package’ unit and 2 Cruise Airs. The “package” unit is likely to have a 26,000 BTU rating or the equal of 2 Cruise Airs or two roof units.
As I said previously and Ed reinforced the temperature difference between supply and return air needs to be at least 15 degrees. A 10 degree spread could be an indicator of low refrigerant and possibly an iced up evaporator.
The Cruise Airs should also have the same temperature spread. They are likely 13000 BTU units and with two running they should equal the package unit.
If all units are malfuncting (a technical term) you probably need an AC tech ASAP.Cruise Airs are R-22. I don’t know what the other unit uses for refrigerant.
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Sshhhh Mark……..I’m trying to shame Sam into resuming the slack adjuster polish program I started on the old coach.
I’m actually amazed at I no longer have to polish my non-existant slack adjusters, but I might have to paint my super duper, heavy duty, brake calipers. Is rust a color?
No hub seals to leak on the steer or tag either. That’s good. A gazillion grease fittings on the IFS, that’s bad.
BCO, that hot joke about the dogs and cat was not the one you told me yesterday. For those of you who haven’t hacked into my email to see my private notes BCO told me it was so hot and dry in OK that two trees were fighting over a dog that had to pee.
The moderators ought to do something about thread creep.
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Correction Terry 17 66 than 81. 17 between 66 and 81 is restricted use. Rick
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Just add an electrostatic air filter to the coach. There are
a number of them made that will even remove pollen from the air. The unit
simply takes air from the coach and cleans it with a charged filter that
attracts dust and returns clean air to the coach. Select an area easily accessible
then remove, wash and replace the filter as required. If you don’t want to have
it built in, there are a number of small portable unit available.If dust from the make-up air on your OTR air is bothering you,
add a particulate filter to the make-up air and change as required. An upgrade
may be to add a damper motor to the make-up air intake to close the damper. -
I see the time on the message is 10:55 am. Just getting up ?
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Tom, we pull a 24′ featherlite with three axles. When empty, the trailer weighs 6500 lbs. Loaded with corvette, golf cart and motorcycle we weigh right at 17000 lbs.Pulls like a dream. The trailer you are looking at seems heavy. Does it have a generator? Just wondering. Get the right cradle, hitch, and hook-ups. Then you never have to look back! Also, get a scale so you can weigh the total amount of the tongue . With a tongue scale, weigh the amount of pounds on the hitch before you actually set it down on the hitch ball. Be sure to set the trailer’s hitch at the same height as your ball on the bus when you read the scale. Adjust the load as needed.
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Tom, pull out the two orange colored time delay relays. Change the positions. That is, put them in different spots than they are now. That usually solves the problem.Later, get a couple of spares tokeep on board.Sometimes they just need to be moved.Sometimes they get dirt or loose. Either way, the movement of them usually solves the issue.