[Sammy]

I do have the level system off right now. My coach holds air for much longer than 3 days. As I said, the rear is less than an inch off from when I parked it 3 weeks ago…..the front stayed aired up for over 5 days and then started to settle down. The temps don’t help much either….being so cold seemed to always affect my coaches ability to hold air while in cold storage. That is why I want to wait till warmer temps to make a determination if there is a valve that needs replacing. Will know soon enough.

Packing up the bays this weekend and then next week we will start to take interior stuff out to the coach so the morning we leave it’s just start it up and hit the road. I’ll be spending 3 nights at our rental property down state for Christmas….I put in a 50 amp plug but it is outside storage next to the house.

[Sammy]

Wow, your list is not making me very excited about ordering a new bus. I haven’t had any major problems with our Cummins. A few adjustsments as it threw a few codes. I think once it noted that we might have ‘blow by’ but it was a filter replacement. Another time I was getting a loud air noise, something came loose and reconnecting it repaired the issue. Oh, and I’ve had three replacement coolant boxes…. for some reason they want to leak…. hopefully the last one is the final fix.

When I think of spending $2M+ on a new bus, the issues that I’ve been reading are not any less than a $400,000 plastic coach. I don’t want to jump from the frying pan to the fire…. I might as well keep what I’ve got as it makes me realize I’ve got a smooth running trouble free coach.

I think I’ve just gotten a wake-up call. Give the money to charity.

Mr. Mark

[Sammy]

I don’t remember the temperature setting, but there is a “do not shift” warning if the temps are too low.

[Sammy]

In a previous post on this thread I posted about a Centramatic problem.. Before Noon time yesterday I recieved a call from Mike Hagar of Centramatics offering assistance and Remedy!!!

Centramatic is a First Class Company and I am sure PC is proud to have them on board the forum!!!

I was/am impressed.

Thanks for the the super quick response. I won’t forget it

[Sammy]

Diane,

Do you know it has failed? When you press the little reset button do you hear the internal buzz?

I have no knowledge of what they are internally but I believe they are measuring the volume based on the head pressure exerted on the tube that goes into the tank. For whatever reason that needs to be calibrated on occasion, but first the tube connection at the rear of the headhunter black box needs to be air tight. If it leaks at that connection you will never get a good reading.

End of blather.

[Sammy]

We may have cross posted. There is nothing wrong in terms of devices that do not work. It is just the way the amp meters read current.

I think all Libertys are the same in how the amp meters measure current.

[Sammy]

Rick,

Give these folks a call, I have been talking to them about being an Advertiser with PC. Please mention the name.

Inverter Repair

[Sammy]

Kelly,

I can help you if you need Lifelines, you’re going to pay too much if you by them in Houston. Like Jon said, if they’re original they need replaced, I doubt you will find a date code. They should be load tested to determine if one or more is bad.

[Sammy]

The check valve looks like it’s for water?

[Sammy]

If you have not visited the busnutonlie web site several Canada residents responded with answers. Basic must be on approved for import list with all recalls complete. Best of luck with your project. Bob
If it’s new should not have a problem built in Canada converted in Us.

[Sammy]

Hey thanks for the heads up email on this and of course, the above supplied information. That has to be a winner for anyone who does their own maint. on a coach and it is great that it would apply to just about anyone who has a bus.

I will do my level best to see that the information gets out there (to other bus sites) to anyone I know who owns a bus or a RV. I signed up tonight. The button works, and the sign-up proccess is super simple, if an Okie can do it, then it is a piece of cake.

This is a great idea, count me in.

BCO

[Sammy]

Gasp!!!!!!! Buddy, tell me you are just kidding.

Surely you were mistaken as to the brand. If not the copper cops will be dispatched to cop the guy’s copper.

[Sammy]

Thanks for all of the advice and cautions.

I left at 10:00 last night with the ambient temperature
of 71. The pull that really had me concerned was crossing the divide right
before .
It is a climb of several miles and pretty steep and I know I would not have
made it as things stood in the afternoon at above 90 degrees.

There is pretty good pull right
before that one and it gave me a chance to test it out. Just before hitting the
hill I turned the heat on high, kept the RPMs up and everything worked great.

When I came to the divide I did
the same thing and shifted down to keep my RPMs near 2000. I topped out in 3^rdgear at 38 MPH, 1900 RPMs and a shade less than 210 on engine temp. It was
about 69 degrees at the foot of the climb and considerably colder at the top.

While rejoicing and praising God
at the top, I slowed down to about 25 and eased down the west side with no
problem at all. The engine temp was below 195 before I was good and started
down. The oil temp never rose over 200.

I did not turn on the dash air
because I can not turn it on separately from the rest of the bus air. I have
separate fan controls and temperature controls but only one switch to turn it
on. That switch is a three position rocker switch with is AC, OFF or Heat.

I was on the road before the
suggestion about the locking the fan came in but I may try that when I leave
here in two weeks going right back the same route.

I certainly want to stay on top
of any trouble in the cooling system. I “think” it is OK but I do not want to
take any chances. All suggestions are welcome.

We have been in , and with temps at 90 when driving with
this load and I have had no issues at all the last few weeks. The variable
yesterday was the high altitude. I think the high altitude combined with the
high heat and the much heavier load than normal brought on the problem.

Just to clarify, I have never hit
the warning level described in the book at 217. It looked close to me so I
backed off so it could immediately cool down.

Thanks again for your help.

DKO

[Sammy]

Loaded (gcvw approx 67000-70000#) I regularly see 210 on grades. My last trip with an ailing fan clutch locked in high I still saw 210 under high load which indicates to me that’s the best MY cooling system will do. Wouldn’t hurt to lock your fan clutch temporarily for a check and do keep revs up for fan speed and circulation. Still over 210, I would check the gauge and then suspect that my radiator is becoming clogged.

[Sammy]

Sammy,

Probably the Vanner Monitor, very common problem. Your Equalizer is good, verified by less than .5 volt between 12 and 24. If you call Vanner, they can give you the instructions on how to check the Monitor with your meter, they’re very helpful. I’ve changed out the Monitor on every bus I have owned. They’re about 80 bucks.

Monitor