Forum Replies Created

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  • Rudy

    Member
    February 11, 2021 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Hard Freeze in Houston

    Eugene: The thermostat in the water bay should control the electric heater in the water bay which in our 1999 XLV is a heat gun fastened to the roof of the water bay. The thermostat should control the 120volt circuit that the breaker placarded as “Compartment Heat” controls. Confirm that the heat gun or another heater is there, confirm that they are plugged into the correct outlet controlled by the thermostat. Depending on how your coach was wired, it might be possible to plug water bay heat source and the water heater into the same circuit/breaker; having both on the same circuit/breaker will trip the breaker.

    You don’t know what a previous owner might have done to change things.

    The water bay probably has three circuits each on a dedicated breaker: water heater, 120v volt water pump, and water bay heat source.

    I emailed a PDF of the Liberty winterzation instructions to Eugene. Empty the holding and fresh water tanks; close holding tank before starting. Liberty says eight (8) gallons of RV anti-freeze should be needed. I ended up using 14 gallons. I was pretty liberal when I ran each of the faucets to clear the lines out and make sure the traps were full of anti-freeze. I left the fresh water dump open during the process. Last thing I did was to close fresh water dump and run some RV anti-freeze into the fresh water tank on the assumption there would be a little fresh water on the bottom of the tank that could freeze.

    Any questions? Don’t be afraid to call. You have the number.

  • Rudy

    Member
    February 3, 2021 at 3:06 pm in reply to: Steering bay 3 way Norgren valve leaking air

    Totally agree with Jon as I just went through this and after replacing the 3 way had to replace the 5 way so I would start with the 5 way for sure.

    The valve in question is always open from port 2 to exhaust port 3 so if you have air it is coming through as a result of the 5 way valve, above that valve, that controls letting air go to port 2 when initiated. On mine it was valve K81EA00-KAC-KAC which you can get from either Prevost or directly from Norgren at a lower cost.

    Hope that helps and here is the article where I went though the process of the issue.

    Prevost Community Forums

  • Rudy

    Member
    February 3, 2021 at 12:06 am in reply to: Lock out of coach

    Mark, if your friend can get the toll window down, they can get a long piece of pcv pipe with a small elbow attached to the end. With a lot of practice, they can slide the lock by putting the pole through the toll window. (don’t ask me how I know!) LOL!

    A 2000 model’s door lock could be different but just wanted to share my experience. Mine was under warranty at the time and hope it never happens again! The next step was to remove the windshield.

    Safe travels,

    Mark

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 25, 2021 at 8:38 pm in reply to: Observation / Question

    Pretty sure the Detroit owners manual says to use high idle. I will try to dig it out and post the info.

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 16, 2021 at 12:29 am in reply to: Static Strap

    Yes we have one currently, and havereplaced them on previous coaches we’ve owned

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 15, 2021 at 12:33 pm in reply to: Norgren Valve Replacement

    Chip, my short answer is “I don’t know”. Maybe Jon, Tom or someone will chime in here with the answer.

    But my long answer is: SB96-14B calls for: two “normally open” Prevost# 131460 and “one normally closed” Prevost# 131384. Call Prevost Parts
    or
    replace the body(2 way/3 port) of each valve is Norgren# K41EA00, $38 ea online,
    or
    buy the repair kit is Norgren# 54237-59, $26 ea online.
    It looks just like K910026 or K41EA00KS1KA2 which is a normally closed valve which may work in place of pt# 131384 mentioned in the 96-14B. But the other 2 are normally open. Maybe all that is needed to do to make the N.C. K41EA00KS1KA2 into a N.O. valve is swap the two bottom fittings with each other?
    Maybe someone will be of more help than me here?
  • Rudy

    Member
    January 14, 2021 at 7:57 am in reply to: Just got hit!

    i believe the rivets sent with brackets are alluminim

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 11, 2021 at 8:44 am in reply to: Sealant question

    This is what I use and it’s great stuff.

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 11:27 am in reply to: WINE GLASS

    See that you have the same just a couple years newer would love to ask you some questions if you don’t mind we have so much to learn to learn

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 10:12 am in reply to: Damn that Webasto!

    Well Bill, If you are kicking the stainless steel box surrounding the Webasto burner and getting it to run, my guess is either the motor has stopped on a bad spot or the Control Unit (brain box the runs the burner) needs bumping to get the relays to conduct.

    To isolate the issue, you need to remove the cover from the heat exchanger area and remove the Control Unit from the side of the burner. Now you can bump one or the other to see which bump starts the burner.

    If bumping the burner starts it, replace the motor. If bumping the Control Unit starts it, replace the Control Unit.

    If neither works, check the grounds as suggested already. It is not rocket science.

    Changing the nozzle does not address a bumping issue. Changing the nozzle, cleaning the U-channel chamber, cleaning the flame sensor, cleaning the combustion chamber and checking the gap of the ignition points addresses smoking or smelling issue or running but not firing issue. None of which you are describing.

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 9:55 am in reply to: Damn that Webasto!

    Sounds like a ground issue. Follow all ground wires to where they connect to the metal chassis. Loosen the ground screws, squirt some anti-corrosion (available at big box or marine supply stores) on those wires and connectors and relighten the ground screws. Best to remove the ground wires, clean them, squirt the anti-corrosion and retighten but if kicking the box works now just squirting the material on the loose screw and wires before retightening will likely do the trick for you.

    Jerry

  • Rudy

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 9:47 am in reply to: Possible Head Gasket issue

    Yesterday we started tearing into the genny , for the past week she has traveled with me and we have become very close Jenny and I 🙂

    Well sadly the damage is to the block itself . All 4 cylinder holes are scorn . So not sure what to do next , any thoughts ?

  • Rudy

    Member
    December 20, 2020 at 11:18 am in reply to: Possible Head Gasket issue

    My generator was running close to 195. I removed radiator and carried to radiator shop. They flushed and soaked radiator in cleaning solution. I then straighten all the fins on radiator. There quite a few that were bent from being brushed against over the years. Took about three hours to straighten the fins and insure the opening was formed as close to original shape.

    The running temp is now 165 to 180. You can see the temp go up and then drop back. Assume that is thermostat opening and closing.

  • Rudy

    Member
    December 11, 2020 at 4:37 pm in reply to: Finally got ours

    I was thinking this past week or so that you’d be bringing your coach home from Florida pretty soon. Let me know when you get stumped, I’ll drive over and see if I can help. Very glad to help out.

  • Rudy

    Member
    December 10, 2020 at 8:11 am in reply to: Engine fan belt(s)

    I tried the molded belt and experienced more vibration, went back to 3.

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