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Damn that Webasto!
We are currently in MI and it’s been “chilly” but not cold by MI standards. We have had issues with the Webasto not kicking in after being off for awhile. We leave for work and set the temp to 60 to keep the chill off until we get home but usually find that when we get home and turn the temp up the burner will not come on. The blower blows (from the tail pipe) but no burner, no heat. I tried cycling everything in various conditions but simply could not get the burner to kick in. There’s a Preheat button but don’t know what it does as I have pushed it in various start up situations with no success. It was cold when we got home tonight and nothing I tried would get the heater going. Out of frustration I opened the side access door and kicked that damn box. Yes, you guessed it, the burner kicked in and now we are toasty warm.
Anyone have any thoughts of where I need to go from here? Just keep kicking the box?
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20 Replies
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Bill, Call me 713/818-3234
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We got up to temp and it started to chill down again. Went back, kicked it again and it’s heating again. I am pretty sure I had a similar issue with my ’88 many years ago but I don’t remember if I just replace the nozzle or something in the electronics.
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I would think kicking it would point to an electrical issue. You may want to plug and unplug the brain box connectors to see if that helps. Remove the head unit and check all wiring as well as the sensors on top.
Call Rudy…
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Sounds like a ground issue. Follow all ground wires to where they connect to the metal chassis. Loosen the ground screws, squirt some anti-corrosion (available at big box or marine supply stores) on those wires and connectors and relighten the ground screws. Best to remove the ground wires, clean them, squirt the anti-corrosion and retighten but if kicking the box works now just squirting the material on the loose screw and wires before retightening will likely do the trick for you.
Jerry
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Well Bill, If you are kicking the stainless steel box surrounding the Webasto burner and getting it to run, my guess is either the motor has stopped on a bad spot or the Control Unit (brain box the runs the burner) needs bumping to get the relays to conduct.
To isolate the issue, you need to remove the cover from the heat exchanger area and remove the Control Unit from the side of the burner. Now you can bump one or the other to see which bump starts the burner.
If bumping the burner starts it, replace the motor. If bumping the Control Unit starts it, replace the Control Unit.
If neither works, check the grounds as suggested already. It is not rocket science.
Changing the nozzle does not address a bumping issue. Changing the nozzle, cleaning the U-channel chamber, cleaning the flame sensor, cleaning the combustion chamber and checking the gap of the ignition points addresses smoking or smelling issue or running but not firing issue. None of which you are describing.
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I sure wish this had popped up while we were in Houston just miles from Rudy! A couple of things are happening. The “Heater On” light now never goes out even if the system is not doing anything. Also, it appears the 2 circulation pumps never turn off even if there is no demand. This coach is setup with a Dometic thermostat that controls the 3 roof airs plug the furnace (Webasto). The furnace can be turned on with zone 1 (living and kitchen) and zone 3 (bedroom and possibly the outside storage). I can’t figure out anyway to stop the circulation pumps but this afternoon when we got home I turned off zone 3 and only zone 1 is set to run. So far, so good but I know that this is not good for the long run. We have been working 7 days a week so getting a lot of diagnosis done is really difficult. OH YEAH!, today we started leaking anti-freeze! Nice!
At least we now know that we have green anti-freeze. Can you tell me what the proper compatible anti-freeze is?
DANG, just had to go out and give it a light kick, not much less than a tap, to get the burner to kick in.
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The Webasto heat exchanger is a part of the main engine antifreeze system. So you are leaking engine antifreeze. A fix is a must as the main engine is loosing its antifreeze.
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I understand that it’s engine anti-freeze. I just am not familiar with which anti-freeze is compatible with the green stuff.
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I bet a phone call to a diesel repair shop or perhaps a Prevost Service center would give you a good answer. Others here will know and hopefully share the answer with you.
All the best sorting it out.
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Will everyonne quit defining coolant based on its color?
At one time color meant something. Today it doesn’t mean anything except perhaps to identify a brand, but not a specification.
Use a coolant the meets the Detroit spec for your engine. You have a choice of the widely used conventional chemistry which has a 2 year life, or the organic acid chemistry (OAC) that has a six year life.
On a sleeved engine such as all our engines the wrong coolant can allow cavitation and the destruction of the engine.
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Since I only need to add coolant and not replace it, it’s my understanding that different coolants are not compatible with each other. Adding the red Fleet Charge to my green coolant might cause unexpected issues. I am hoping to avoid that.
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It’s not about the color, it’s about the chemistry. There is 2 yr conventional standard life coolant and then there’s extended life Organic Acid Technology.
You probably have a 2 yr conventional. Add any conventional on the list that I emailed you. -
Here is a Detroit link for cooling systems coolant requirements:
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Thanks for the list Don. Maybe Jeff at ETLC knows what’s in there as I know he has done some amount of the maintenance on the coach.
You mention 2 year…..Do coolant changes need to take place every 2 years?
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I also wanted to thank Rudy for that information. As soon as I get a day off I will open the box and see what I can find. I have done a lot of work on the Webasto on my ’88 coach so I am familiar with the innards. I will give your suggestions a try.
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