[Roger]

Mine are like Xenon bulbs they come in different colors on low beam they are so bright u don’t need high beams the kit just plugs in search web

[Roger]

Is there a removable side cover plate on the black plastic base?

If there is you could remove it and if it were destroyed in the process, a new one made up.

The black base may in fact be hollow, allowing refastening from the outside or you may see the bolt head.

By showing the image you indicate you know the maker. You could buy a new one and see how it is made, without destroying anything on the coach.

Another idea is to make an adaptor flange extension of sorts to go down over the antenna and fit precisely over and around the existing base. That new member would have a thickness of about 1/2″ and could be attached to the coach from the outside using screws, “well nuts” and sealing with sikaflex. You would then tighten the base to the new member using pre installed set screws through the side of the new member and into the base.

Your marker/running lights are installed with “well nuts” it is an approved method of attachment.

The problem with a stiff antenna comes from; when “WACKED” something HAS to GO.

You could carefully cut through the black base and remove it alltogether, installing something new and more flexible, that attached from the outside.

The above ideas should be clear enough if you carefully read each word. If you need more clarification, ask.

I will not respond until late in the day.

JIM

[Roger]

Gil, I did not engineer the Prevost coaches so I can only speculate on things similar to those you mention.

I have serviced all my dryers which I accessed from below. The first one was the worst with a snap ring of about 1/4″ round rod, doing that while laying on a barn floor. The spin on cartridges are much easier, especially since I have the benefit of a pit. Their location compared to in ther engine compartment is not as convenient, but there is a good engineering reason for the location. The dryer and the length of hose are routed and located probably because it is important to get some of the heat from the compressed air so the dryer will separate the moisture. The dryer is relatively ineffective if the air is very hot because the moisture really isn’t moisture at that point of discharge from the compressor.

That’s my story and I am sticking to it.

Some owners have installed lanyard operated drain valves on their air tanks, but the reality is that if you have the coach lubed at the suggested intervals, and drain the tanks while you are under the coach you probably are never going to experience any moisture problems. I doubt if daily tank draining would even make the air any dryer in the systems.

I might be wrong but a number of CC owners have complained about air dryer placement, but at the same time they usually attribute the difficulty to the placement of the little CC AC condenser in the way. (OK, I admit, I was puling your chain about the little condenser, you made it too easy with the comment about OTR)

[Roger]

And since I still can’t post a new thread I will ask the following?

Is there a way to reset the DDEC fault codes?

[Roger]

Thank-you & Happy Easter to all also !!!

Larry & Diane

[Roger]

Me too Gil, done 2 myself with different coaches and was no
problem. There was no sealant in either of the ones I replaced.
We used to do them at Rallies and would make bulk purchases from
Prevost to get the best deal. We even did a couple seminars at
Rallies showing the ease of changing them out.

Sounds like yours got the sealant treatment when installed and
most likely caused all the aggravation after being cooked in the sun
for a bunch of years. Removing sealant is a huge PIA.

Now the XLII, no way I would attempt that!

[Roger]

After reading another website, I made this post and thuoght it might interest people here.

Im a newbee here, but also read other sites and forums and what I don’t
understand is why the stainless panel problems with the XLII doesn’t get
any discussion when it drastically effects the coach value. Either the seller or the buyer is going to have to deal
with it and it seems like most hide their heads in the sand and hope it
goes away. I havehe same problem, prevost might fix the panel, but I
will eat about 20 thousand in paint work.

Does this not concern any of you and the value of your bus? My bus value
is now in the dumpster unless I sell to someone who is unaware. Are
buses now being flipped quickly by dealers and brokers to get rid of the
stainless problem to buyers that don’t have a clue? It seems that might be happening.

[Roger]

Glen,

I am certain the gauges that read 65 PSI are brake systems. They have nothing to do with aux air pressure. If you want to see if the loss of aux air pressure makes the bus drop or lean in the rear, air it up and bring the bus to the drive height.

Then bleed aux air off and as it hits around 30 to 35 PSI you should see air escape and the tail of the coach to drop or one side to drop.

If that does not happen your coaxch may have had the system logic changed.

Try that and let us know what happens.

[Roger]

I see you had two differant results from Prevo . I keep contact notes on who I talk to so when I have a correct result.. Same with Byler or other suppliers . Sometimes/most of times it is the person on other end of phone, Prevost is better than most. Bob

[Roger]

I paid $1 a rivet at Prevost-Ft Worth for the polished rivets. BTW, they come in 2 sizes and Prevost recommends the larger for the aluminum panels on the upper half of the coach.

[Roger]

When we had our first coach there weren’t many that were motorhomes. We were in the VF outlet mall in Reading PA and the management had us park with the commercial buses. In a way that was a good deal because I had a special coupon book and a ticket for access to the driver’s lounge and free refreshments.

Anyway we were just getting ready to shop when two DOT folks knocked on the door and asked me for my papers. I had no clue what that meant and they got snippy explaining insurance, and others relating to my charter. I told them I wasn’t chartered and it was my motorhome. When they poked their head in and saw the living room and my wife, daughter and son-in-law drinking coffee they excused themselves and bothered someone else. I had Private Coach plaques on both sides, one right next to the door and they ignored them.

In today’s economy with every government agency hungry for money I don’t think it would be worth the risk of running a commercial coach as a private owned coach.

[Roger]

Jon: Old buddy, old Pal, can you do mine?

[Roger]

Jon, my point always was that cruise airs may disappear as more new coachs are being built with 3 and 4 slides. With Millenium and Liberty being the two remaining converters both using roof airs. I agree that when moving, nothing will cool a bus faster and colder than Prevo OTR, all be it, a bit of an overkill. Our CC OTR works fine throughout the entire coach when moving(at least at 105-110 outside temps), though in real hot weather, we will turn on the generator and roofs 30min. before stopping for the night. My big objection to cruise airs is the cost and hassle of maintainance in an older(8-15yrs) coach along with the lost storage space. P.S. the guy with the Liberty’s complaint was not with the OTR, but that when parked in hot weather, the cruise airs could not keep his bedroom cool. It was a 3 slide coach.

[Roger]

Don’t believe I ever said batteries were made in China, but I for sure said that about tires and in fact had very good luck running Double Coin tires which were made in Shanghai. I susequently found out the company is Michelin owned.

Tom is our resident battery guru, but the internet is filled with excellent information about batteries, charging batteries, and other technical information.

A discharge down to 2 volts is not a good thing. AGM batteries can possibly be saved by putting them through a full charge, bulk, absorbtion, and float. Sometimes they will respond to an equalization charge. Charging will not repair a battery that has failed.

If the batteries were mine I would separate them and charge them independent of one another. A the completion of the charge I would give each battery a standard test to verify it is OK. Generally speaking well maintained batteries that have not been deeply discharged are going to provide about 5 years of good service. But any battery can have an internal short which not only deeply discharges itself, but pulls the other batteries. That can happen any time in the life of the battery. The bad thing is batteries should be replaced in sets so when one goes bad, despite the remaining batteries being in good shape those batteries need to be replaced also.

From personal experience I have had the best performance with Lifeline. Now Tom will think I am sucking up to him.

[Roger]

Chris,

I had them mounted under the axle nuts on a previous bus and had no issues.