Rick & Denise
Forum Replies Created
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Rodger,
When I had hair I was a blonde.
We’re going to have to talk at oysterfest.
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1. It would help if you identified the model number of the guest charger.
2. Are you sure you are going to wire to the Vanner?
I have a guest installed and it has 110-120 VAC input which was slated for the engine block heater. The DC leads are connected right to the batteries.
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Interesting differences reported. My H weighs 57,000 lbs. I have never gotten more then 5.8 mpg. Typically it is around 5.5 towing a Lexus GX470 SUV. Do not have ORA, do not run with generator or aqua hot running. Pulling my stacker trailer with two corvettes inside plus a golf cart drops it to around 4.3 mpg. It has been as low as 3.5 mpg Orlando to Scottsdale on I-10 with the stacker. Typically run just under 70 with cruise used as much as possible. When pulling the trailer run with mode on. We had the coach built new and mpg remains about the same since new. It is a 2006 model with just over 100,000 miles.
Is there any tuning that can be done that might improve this?
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Yeah, you don’t buy one of these puppies for the fuel mileage. I never check my 8V92TA for fuel mileage and just look at it like moving a house around.
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These links are very help full thank you!
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I have 4 lifts that will lift up to 72000 pounds ,each lift is rated at 18000 pounds each ,they are wireless battery packs inside them charge by plugging in to wall 580000 for a set of four made by rotary lift red with yellow L bars they are great.Number is Mch418
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Nice job on the Article John, keep them coming.
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This is not scientific and I have no clue if it even did any good. It also relates to a single tank, not a set up with black and gray tanks.
Any time I suspected the crud in my tank might be building I allowed it to get as full as possible. I then added a significant amount of Dawn dishwashing soap. About 1/2 a bottle. Then I drove about 400 miles. I usually did this when returning home or on a leg of a trip when I knew I would be able to dump the tank.
Keep in mind the following. I suspect none of us knows what it looks like inside our tanks so we do stuff like flushing to make us feel good. There is no plumbing code in the nation that allows us to connect a water supply line to flush out a tank because in the plumbing industry that is called a cross connection and is absolutely forbidden so I cannot bring myself to buy and use anything like that. I think for it to be of value it almost needs to be a flow as strong as a pressure washer. I suspect to keep the black tank as clean as possible we need to use ample water because any solids that might be in the tank are likely to get scoured out by the flow if they are on the bottom of the tank. So I try not to subscribe to the phrase “if it’s yellow let it mellow”. Unless I have to dry camp for days on end my practice is to get the holding tank quite full before dumping and to flush the toilet after every use, not just when…..you know.
Our tank discharge has been 3″ or greater so it is highly unlikely anything greater in size than the discharge pipe can end up in the tank. The only problem I can envision is if the black tank drain is left open such as when in a long term stay in a campground. Then there is no heavy water flow to carry the solids and they can accumulate.
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Actually, all of my 50DN failures on the S60 were related to oil leaks and/or poor workmanship which is why I want air cooled. I’m hoping the air cooled will be able to take the extreme temps of the southwest.
Dry camping (although I do it frequently) doesn’t really use the 50DN; I recharge with the gen/inverters. My heaviest alternator use comes after a night in a truck stop recharging and ( I assumed) running road air was also a major player.
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A complete article on hub seal replacement will be up in the articles section in a week or so. I don’t have the file in this computer, and I want to edit the article to incorporate John’s advice and photos also. John has provided some good information and suggestions that have to be included.
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You know what I appreciate?
That this thread hasn’t degenerated like one about the weight police would have on rv.net.
Merry CHRISTmas, and a Happy New Year!
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Rich has anything been added to the electrical panels under the drivers area. I had no problems until I connected a compressor to a 12volt terminal in the Drivers/steering bay and Bam when I went to leave the park I had no juice to start the engine. So your phantom maybe at any junction box that connected to the chassis bats.
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Rick,
Since you recently changed batteries use the wiring diagram on the door and double check the cables to make sure they go exactly where the diagram shows.
Then check it again.
Once you are totally satisfied the cables from battery to battery and to the equalizer are OK then you can look for the loads. Over time previous owners often modify a coach, and few make notes or mark the changes. Fewer still make a modification with the thought required to equal the quality and logic Pevost and the converters apply to their work. You may have to painstakingly look for current draw starting at the batteries and then working your way to the bus bars and then the individual circuits. Since it is chassis related it is possible the load may have been added to the posts in either the front or rear electrical compartments, and that current draw is going to be a post or terminal that is hot with the key off. Your tester can help you find those, then it is a matter of determining what is connected to those posts or terminals.
Have patience. you will need it. If you are lucky the load will be obvious due to the quality of the wiring and connections not be equal to what Prevost or Liberty did making it stand out. Look for in line fuses instead of a factory installed circuit breaker as a clue. Look for colors that don’t match the Prevost yellow and red for hot wires.
It took me months before I stumbled across the phantom load on my first bus. As soon as I found it however the clues were all there, I just didn’t know I was looking at them.
BTW, if this phantom load issue was not there prior to your battery change………you know the first place to look. Did I tell you to check the location of the battery cables?
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I disconnected each battery and load tested. All ok. Hooked to batteries is 12 and 24 v wire from equalizer,ddec wires and battery charger. Just to see if there was any difference I disconnected the charger and nothing changed with the 2 main switches off. So now I presume I have a phantom load in system with the switches on. Question is where? Where would be a good place to start with an amp meter. I bought one today to figure this thing out. Rick
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Before this gets confusing to everyone and the answer to Georges question gets difficult to find within the answers perhaps it is best if Georges shows a photo or tells us exactly what brand and model inverter he has.
The inverters and the manner in which “inverters” have been installed has changed over the last couple of decades and to give Georges an answer that directly relates to his coach.
Not only have inverters (or inverter chargers) changed over the years, the installations by converters have changed, such as some converters running all 120 VAC through the inverter chargers (Vantare for example) but some coaches have been modified from how they were originally built so the answer may be generally applicable to all, or it may be specific to Georges coach.