Marshall
Forum Replies Created
-
Steve,
Those are some nice ramps.
-
Login info does work on an iPad but it has never worked on my Mac using Safari.
Site looks good
-
Font on the forum is now smaller as others have stated.
-
Lardog congratulations, now we were in a super C dealership 2 weeks ago and look over there . A 2021 13 ft 4 inch tall rv only 3,000 miles that owner was sleeping in bed ,21 year old son driving, using his phone for navigation and out of nowhere a 11 ft 6 inch bridge.If you guessed the 2 don’t mix well, estimate for repair north of 350 k .One must always be alert. Dealership ask me not to take picture .
-
We have a few guys on here with a DDECV era coach 06,07 mostly.
Don’t wait until you climb Eisenhower to check your CAC. You can do a simple spray water test on the CAC.
Start your engine and spray water on the lower portion and edges of the CAC tubes. If you see any bubble’s it’s done. Change it.
Search Duralite on here and you will see pictures and know what were talking about.
TN I’m curious what their gonna hit you for between shipping and install, good luck.
Later
bv
-
Thank you all for the suggestions and information. I am most appreciative.
An update on my progress:
Most of my time this week has been spent in design and looking at wiring diagrams and junction boxes/terminal strips and buying parts/tools/paint.
I have decided to remove both A/C compressors for the Over-the-road air. I am getting rid of the condenser that Country Coach mounted up above the front axle as well as the one mounted over the radiator (dash air). The one above the front axle was a bad idea in the first place. Removing the one on the radiator will give me that much more cooling ability in addition to having the radiator rebuilt with a higher-efficiency coil design. I am replacing compressors with one slightly larger Valeo TM31 compressor and using a roof-mounted condenser. The dash air system will retain the 24V evap fan and 24V evap liquid line solenoid all else being 12V. The galley and bedroom will retain their respective evaporator units, solenoids and controls. I only have to add one relay and some additional wiring to make it work right.
A/C hoses to and from the roof-mounted condenser will go through drivetrain tunnel up into and through a closet to the roof. A/C hoses to dash evaporator will utilize existing copper lines to traverse the bays to and from the dash. Unfortunately the Cruisair condensing units mounted behind the front bumper have to be temporarily removed to access front hoses.
A/C hoses going to galley are simply going to run through the tops of bays 3 and 4 to get to underneath the cupboards. Who will notice? A/C hoses to and from bedroom (evap mounted under bed) are through existing holes above transmission. Not sure yet where to put 30 cubic inch filter/dryer.
That is the plan for now. Not much has changed with motor.
Has anyone else done a roof-mounted condenser for OTR air? I think that will make a huge difference in A/C capacity and radiator cooling efficiency. What do you think?
Rick
-
JON. i also have a mister on my one problem CA unit. momentary switch. i used a 2 gallon window washer tank and i only use R/O water and have not seen any water build up problems. your inline switch sounds like a good ideal. the mister seems to get me by on the traffic stops in hot weather. along with the electric fan stays on when driving on hot days.
-
We are home, after towing the Jeep Grand Cherokee about 550 miles. It tows easily and the kit to keep the power steering operational works to prevent the “death wobble” or we did not encounter any condition to set the wobble going.
This has been a long, frustrating and less than satisfying experience and sorry to say my opinions about everything up and down the line are mostly negative. Let me recap to say we like the vehicle. It is comfortable, quiet, has more features than we would ever anticipate or expect to use, but as we get to know it more I am sure we will enjoy it more and take advantage of more of what it offers.
But since we were buying it primarily because of the Jeep Grand Cherokee reputation as a vehicle ideal for flat towing our negative thinking was started by finding out AFTER the purchase a kit was needed to prevent a towing issue from the “death wobble”. Prior to the purchase I read the owner’s manual on line and all it covers is how to put it in neutral, and get it out of neutral for towing. There was no mention of anything else needed until we learned of the kit.
I do not visit sites like RV2 and PC has never had a post about that towing problem so I was surprised to learn of the need. How I learned after closing the sale is either a dealer or Jeep Chrysler trick to not discourage a sale. I did ask the dealer to install the kit. The second thing of a negative nature was the kit would not work when installed.
So after the dealer realized the kit they installed wasn’t working as designed they reached out to Jeep Chrysler engineering and after 4 weeks still had no favorable response. I called customer service and might as well have talked to the wall. There was no response to my phone call or written letter asking for repairs to the design to be made.
With no response coming, I fixed it so it would work. Not the way intended by Jeep Chrysler, but at least I had a workable system. It was during this time I learned on various RV sites the power steering kit would deplete the battery in 3 hours so I set up the bus and Jeep with a Victron 24VDC to 12VDC smart three stage charger from our advertiser Inverter Services. I installed that, again with no information or notice of its needs from Jeep Chrysler.
After I had done my work running the Brakemaster air line, adding the charging system, and having the power steering kit installed and finally working as intended after Jeep made a change the only remaining work was to install the tow bar base plate and get the Jeep wired for the tail lights. I opted to use etrailer.com, a retailer of Roadmaster equipment, and they did the installation work at no charge because they wanted to video a 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee install.
Mechanically the work they did was acceptable but how they mounted the various connectors was more suitable for a work truck rather than a luxury SUV. I will redo the visible portions of their work so it looks a lot better. But it all works.
The acid test was towing. It turns out the steps to prepare the Jeep for towing are numerous. They also have to be done in a specific sequence. This was a new experience because everything I have towed up to this point was simple. Put the transfer case in neutral by pushing a button or shifting the transfer case in neutral. There has never been anything more than push a button or shift into and out of gear. Now I have 14 steps I need to follow in a very precise sequence.
But after following the steps, it does go into neutral, and is ready to tow once the power steering system is turned on. That is a simple 3 or 4 step process. The instructions for the power steering kit reveal the last surprise in which Jeep Chrysler acknowledges for the first and only time a charging system is needed to keep the Jeep battery from being depleted. Thank goodness the internet had a lot of information about the need for charging so I was ready.
The final negative event was at home, after getting the Jeep back into driving mode and after unhooking I find the power steering system will not work. In fact again there is nothing that says it will not work after unhooking, and thanks again to the internet I think I have found how to change some settings as a way to overcome a 20 minute delay for the power steering to come alive and I have made those changes but not verified the PS will work as soon as unhitched and the transfer case is back engaged.
Would I have bought the Jeep if I knew all that was not provided in the owner’s manual? Probably not because the more complicated and lengthy he procedure for towing, the greater the risk of a future problem. Nice SUV, but now that I know Jeep Chrysler lies by omission, and has virtually no customer support I likely will go elsewhere if the GC is ever going to be replaced.
-
I second Bill’s comments.
Again, thank you Tom and Jon, the wealth of knowledge brought to bus owners from this site has been priceless.
-
Good to know Buddy! Thanks!
I reached out to to Tom and he got right back to me.
-
Yellow Jacket-
Thanks for the good advice.
The coach only had 1 inverter (Trace) originally. So I’m pretty sure that’s why he replaced it with only one.
I like the idea of going with fewer 12 volt batteries, and if I needed to add a second inverter down the road, I could add more batteries then.
Do you like AGM batteries better the Lithium Ion?
I’m in the Bay area Ca. Do you work out this way?
-
Whoops. Neglected location. Engine belt tensioner mini air bags
-
Following this thread as my tach has never worked in the 3 years I have owned my coach. Grounds seem okay in the dash and everything else works fine.
The tachometer needle does swing fully around and back during pre-flight with the computer when you turn the key on but never, and has never, registered an RPM reading.
Since it is properly swinging at pre-start test, would one think it could be on the engine bay end?
I haven’t been able to find much on troubleshooting the tach not registering without some other symptoms attached to the problem, so I’m not really sure where to start digging.
-
I have had good results from Magnum.
-
Perfect “Goose Neck Hitch”.
This picture was taken by me at the KOA in Nashville 4 or 5 years ago. I could not believe he pulled that thing on the highway!! He pulled out right after the photo was taken.