Lee
Forum Replies Created
-
Prevost has had various size bay doors over the years and I cannot explain why they did what they did. What I think is correct in my thinking is the bay that is the third back is the one dedicated on your vintage to OTR, so it was sized only large enough for that when the coach is equipped with it. That left the maximum space for the remaining bays.
Keep in mind our coaches are biased toward seated coaches so what might be an unexplained feature on any coach could be as a result of something done for a seated coach.
Other factors I am certain influence dimensions. For example, a motorhome chassis was somewhat unique because it had more rear overhang than that of an entertainer and a seated coach. With only a part of the 45 foot additional 5 feet between the axles, bays got larger, but not as large as they would with all the 5 feet extra between the axles as is the case with the entertainer shells. Now the wheelbases are all standard which has a benefical impact on things such as bay doors which can be standardized and that allows a standardization of parts in inventory.
-
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I am reeeaaaally curious.
How do you access the bulbs to change them out?
From the back…from the front?
I really don’t want to break the bezel trying to learn how to get at them.
Thanks.
-
Any brand that meets the spec. Usually Rotella (shell) from Sam’s
-
Thanks guys. Awnings out. Amazingly the are pretty dry but not bone dry. Always great to know what the more experienced guys are doing.
-
After having a slew of 18 inch tires ( 10 or 12) come apart on my 1 ton dually welding trucks years ago all under 2 years old, haven’t bought a Michelin since. Tire store and Michelin didn’t and wouldn’t help with warranty. Said it was rough oilfield roads that caused it. Tread separation was the culprit them. Went to Bridgestone and never had a problem, At least with he thread problem.
-
I used to be afraid to use the Auto Awning b/c of the unknowns and problems people discuss on PC. With the help of PC and ZipDee I have worked my way though the PLC, arms, motor, compressor, etc and have a good understanding of how it all works now and how to diagnose everything.
I know not everyone is interested in taking the time to pull the arms apart after broken wires, kinked/leaking air lines, swap bad motors, blown fuses and anything else that can happen to them and its not a big deal anymore.
I have drained the moisture from the tank and water from the arms religiously for the last 2 years but they can still malfunction. On the bright side, it happens frequently enough that you never forget how to fix things on it!
When it works it’s very impressive. I now use mine all the time now.
-
Those numbers for Tim are the same as mine.
-
attached is a pic of the air leveling system. Does anyone have information of how this type works?
Thanks
Richard
-
OK, thanks to you all I am making some progress.
Unfortunately, Diane the panel to the right of this battery rack does not remove at all.
The equalizer and several big lugs are mounted on the back side of it. Howerver you did make me curious about this wall in bay 2.
The wall behind these vent fans and between the inverter and the aquahot took some convincing and prodding but it eventually came out. It didn’t give me much room but it did give me access.
After the picture above I was able to remove the wall at the end of the batteries and then I removed the aquahot cover on the right to give my shoulders some room to squeeze in. I removed all the lips and brackets that hold the batteries in and the Xbracing from the battery rack.
I have diagrammed everything and taken a picture of every battery post. Every wire is labeled clearly. My tools are in place and I have plenty of tape and dielectric grease. Once I receive the charging specs and Ed helps me understand them I should be good to go.
I hope to make the change on Wednesday by God’s grace.
Thanks again… Anything else?
DKO
-
Tom is right about there being a small hole in the red cap, in the center, about the size of a small needle. It is there to vent excess pressure from the expansion of the fluid as it heats up while driving and pushes against the air in the hub. Overfilling the hubs contributes.
When you push the cap back it should be a tight fit, If it is loose the cap or maybe even the whole housing needs to be replaced.
This is not the first time I have seen this. Another PC member pulled into a rally in an H3 and the wheel was also oil covered and the cap was also sitting in the hub cap. That cap did not fit tight so temporarily we added a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the cap so it had to be snapped in place until a new cap could be found. Not the same cause, but I had a separation of the clear plastic and the metal housing on my hub cover that allowed the hub grease to leak. In every case as you say a small amount of grease was lost, but it looked like much more was gone.
I think I have a spare hub cover and gasket if you need one, John
-
When the term “converter” is used in the context of our campers it has meant the device takes 120 volt alternating current as an input, and “converts” it to direct current output, usually 12 or 24 volts.
Where in your Liberty are the converters located, can you determine where the output goes, can you confirm the converters have 120 volt AC input?
BTW, on my Liberty and at least some others I have seen the power for the CB comes directly from a fused line attached to a 12 volt output at the house batteries. If you are having trouble with power to the CB you might go to the house batteries and check the fuse for continuity and possible corrosion (a problem I had).
-
I would love to do it myself, George but definitely out of my league. Glad you could do it. Has it worked good since you beefed it up? How much weight do you pull?
Very good information, Jon. I understand and I am in complete agreement. I am a little compulsive when it comes to things like that and after talking to bus people all day, I am more determined than ever to do it correctly. they made sure I am scared straight!
I did get a price from Prevost to modify my XL for 20K capacity. $2500 for engine cradle and hitch and $6500 total. They said it’s about 30 hours labor. That’s a bunch of money no matter who’s counting it. I think even he was surprised it was so high.
I have the facts. Now I need to make a decision.
Thanks,
DKO -
Thought I would pass this on to you guys the Eagles have a rally Oct 3-10 at Branson Lakeside RV park several Prevost owners attend that rally most of the time with the Eagles, around 30 to 35 buses attend that rally which is every 2 years.Just passing on a little info for you Jon
Clifford