Ken
Forum Replies Created
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When i purchased mine it was missing a tag axle cover … I looked for one for a very long time … I even went to marathon and looked in a huge junk box … it was a mechanics private stash… I did find a driver and some peanut pieces.. I took the end piece and took the peanuts pieces and made one for the tag .it looks good and you can hardly tell it was cobbled together. I later found a tag or driver one pop up on Ebay… let me tell you I paid dearly… I have heard Jeff had a set and donny Myers might have some … all i can say is keep looking and be ready to pay handsomely… i also went to a truck shop and purchased a plastic cover just so it wouldn’t look so bad until i figured something out..
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I’ll have to try that.. Jon is shit out of luck, his flip phone (one step above the string and cans) won’t work.
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Bill, So both cords had bad connections on them? I wouldnt have guessed that. Glad you got it figured it out.
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Ok so here is where I’m at. Went yesterday for my trip down I4. Went to 4 places that were open (most were not). All of the places that were open had less than half of the inventory of my last visit. Finally ended up at the parts counter at Camping World. Older guy behind the counter was super helpful and even looked in the back for both the male and female 50amp parts. He returned with neither, but offers to call the Camping World in New Port Richey. They have the female part for sure. After another 50 minutes I arrive and find the plastic (not stainless) part on the self. I do not see the male end. Ask the service guy (kid), he went and looked in the other building and they had nothing. My only option was to buy a whole other cable for $459. Plus the $65 or so for the other part. This guy was also super nice and after explaining my dilemma, he worked some magic and I walked out for just over 400 bucks. I have to give Camping World credit to have 2 very competent employees in this day and age.
Came back, sat in the near 100 degree FL heat and tore the passenger side electrical connector apart. You can see from the pics that it was not a pretty sight and it even smelled horrible. I cut back far enough to where the wire seemed ok. The I lightly sanded it. I then installed the now unit. I was very happy to find out that Marinco uses the exact same 30 year old or more design for the cheaper plastic version of the part as the stainless one. I could simply remove 3 small screws and fit the inner plastic piece in my original stainless housing. Fit perfect.
I plugged in the new cord to the surge protector and then into the coach and it has been good to go. I continually check both ends of the cable and both are as cool to the touch as they can be in FL, in June.
I have not run the middle AC since the change. I am in the shade so the bus is staying plenty cool with just 2. I may wait another few days and turn it on. I will monitor the cable temp for awhile when I do.
I also have other stuff coming from Amazon to replace the female on the drivers side and both of my old cable ends.
If anything else changes I will let you know.
Thanks again for the help!
Bill III
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yes hard start of a compressor = excessive amp draw= overload. could be as simple as start capicator.
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Currently using one with portability.
Easy setup, fast speeds,& unlimited. -
2 Duracell starting batteries from Sam’s club
12 LiFePo for the house side – these are only 10 pounds each and 7 3//4 X 5 1/4 X 6 so it is more like 6 Battleborn or LIfelines but they were only $900 for all 12!
Installing over next day or two then head out Tuesday for a 1600 mile shakedown cruise
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Hello, Mike. I am 10 minutes from GSP. It is a quick and enjoyable drive.
Ron
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Just to clarify, the turnbuckle rod with LH and RH male threads is the only stainless steel part. Everything else is zinc-plated steel. With this new part on the way, there will be no stainless steel in the assembly.
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Chad, I would change out one of the mating parts so you don’t have stainless on Stainless. You will always be fighting Galling.
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A couple of final notes:
1. Based upon photos I’ve seen, the alignment of and distance between the brackets probably varies from coach to coach. I also bought a tie rod end with female RH threads, but the clevis end worked best. I needed a single washer at that end for good spacing and alignment.
2. Everything I used has 1/2″-20 threads. There are 1/2″-13 options, but I decided not to mix and match. The turnbuckles I wanted to use are 1/2″-20.
3. Related to the threads – there was a problem with the fit of the male RH threads on the turnbuckle rod and the female RH threads on the coupler. When I did a test fit of the whole assembly, I didn’t notice that those two pieces were binding quite a bit. In the end, the threads of both pieces were really damaged. McMaster-Carr was great about sending free replacements, which was really appreciated given the $68 price of the turnbuckle rod. This just happened today, so I re-cut the threads of both pieces with a tap and die and was able to get things working. The threads are definitely compromised though, so I’ll switch to the replacement pieces when they arrive. I’ll do a test fit with some never-seize, and re-cut the threads if I run into the same problem.
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I like the point Bill made. Cost of fuel versus the enjoyment of the travel, the destination, and the memories made. Beside that, who does not enjoy driving their Prevost? I feel so fortunate for being able to take this wonderful machine anywhere.
R