[Ken]

Thanks John, I have ordered the overload from AAP and will check those connections also. Since this is the easy and least expensive way it is worth a try.

Bill

[Ken]

I will let you know if new shocks make a difference as I am getting mine changed out while here at Camp Prevost. I have noticed a bit more bounce after hitting a dip and this is the logical thing that would have changed as we used the coach more.

Since all the roads are in such nice shape all around the country…NOT…I think our suspension parts really get a work out these days!

[Ken]

We had a great time at Dale’s home in Nebraska. He and his wife are wonderful hosts and we certainly appreciate their time. What a great time we had. Thanks Dale and Jan.

Concerning the photos, I am not interested in flying RC airplanes, with a twist. The hobby is called FPV, or First Pilot Video. Simply, you fly an RC airplane with cameras, video transmitter, GPS, and a stabilization/control system that allows for autonomous flights and flight control stabilization. A ground station allows one to receive the video and telemetry of plane parameters. I sit in front of a video monitor, with an RC controller and fly, just like sitting in the plane (but I am safely on the ground). The photos Dale has shown were taken with a high resolution camera made by “Go Pro”, very similar to “helmet cams” used by those who jump out of airplanes with parachutes.

I have flown out over 4 miles so far. It is great fun.

The technology that is available for civilians to purchase is amazing. If one would think of “downsized” military Predator, with limited range. It is my first hobby and very passionate for the hobby.

We had limited time at Dale’s, so we did not get an opportunity to get his bus “bubble tight”, but I hope to see him in Texas during cooler weather for that task. It would be fun.

Thanks again Dale for your hospitality,

Hector

[Ken]

Just curious, what are the amperage readings now that things are corrected?

[Ken]

Nice job John, looks very professional.

AL

[Ken]

Dale, the Niehoff will PACK all the amperage into the batteries better than inverters on shore power and/or genset rates. The nice thing about the Deka AGM’s is that you can charge them at a higher voltage than other AGM’s. AGM’s by nature will accept more amperage vs flooded cells. The standard Niehoff regulators have 3 alternate voltage settings HOWEVER, it does NOT have battery TEMP just Alternator Temp compensation. I did not want to cook my AGM’s.. Most of us are using inverted power while driving but I drive at night and I seen that my battery bank didn’t need alot of the amperage. So, I went searching to see if I could get a programmable smart regulator.

[Ken]

Thanks Ron, I’ll check it out.

[Ken]

After I posted that reply I thought about a statement that a friend would make after some long winded explaination from someone like me. “I just asked what time it was, I didn’t need to know how to build the clock” Hope I didn’t expain too much.

Ken

[Ken]

I believe you have two tubes about an inch in diameter on each side of the engine that are to vent the crankcase. If you have a lot of “blowby” through the rings it puts pressure in the crankcase and oil vapors are exhausted from these tubes. Often the amount of oil coming from the tubes is thought to be a lot more than it really is.

Some have hung a can such as a coffee can from these tubes to catch what might drip from them. Having fought the battle with a 2 stroke engine to identify sources of oil I can say if you are serious about identifying sources and curing the problem step one has to be to clean the engine until you can wipe it with a white glove, anywhere, and not detect any dirt. Then after running it on a short trip start looking closely at it to see if there is any evidence of oil leakage, fuel leakage, or wetness on the ends of the “slobber” tubes. Only after the engine is clean can you do a good analysis of the source and take steps to correct it.

In my case it took me 1 1/2 years to finally locate a fuel fitting that needed about 1/16 turn to forever stop a leak that was leaving a light film on my inside of the doors and my toad after a trip. Until I figured out the fuel leakage which was so slight it never showed a wet spot on my less than clean engine I suspected the slobber tubes. From that point on I was fanatical about keeping my engines clean and painted.

[Ken]

Susan,

There is no correct answer about the use of the auxiliary air compressor. If your coach were approaching the air system integrity of Hector’s (he is our standard of excellence) you could leave the compressor on at all times and it would keep your belts tight, your generator air bags inflated, allow you to operate the air slide floor, pocket doors, bed lift, and all other air operated goodies, plus enable you to level your coach from time to time without starting the engine.

But if your aux air system has leaks and your air compressor cycles often to compensate I would suggest just turning it on when you want to level the coach. Folks with slides do not have the option because the air seal on slides has to be inflated otherwise there is a risk of rain water entering the coach and that is a bad thing. But unless you have devices that operate on air and they are critcal I would leave the compressor off until needed.

As a footnote it is unlikely if the camp site sloped the other way that your aux air compressor would generate enough PSI to lift a front end that is sagging so once you notice that happening it is probably time to consider fixing the cause of the “leans”.

BTW, Some questions are easy to answer on here because they are either generic and apply to all of our coaches, or the person answering has specific knowledge of your type conversion. Prevost chassis questions (such as this one) expect lots of good assistance, but for converter specific questions we cannot answer do not hesitate to speak to the folks at Pantera. They have a long history with Angola and can give you accurate information. Don’t hesitate to share information because knowledge helps all of us avoid the dread that goes with surprise problems.

[Ken]

I was getting ready to change my oil on
my Allison HT 754. I was looking at Castrol Transyd, Mobil Delvac
Synthetic ATF or Wolfs Head Oil, http://www.wolfshead.com/all are compatible with Allison specs.

I haven’t priced Transyd but Mobil is
$37+/- /gal. and Wolfs head is $18+/- /gal.

What do you guys think?

[Ken]

Just putting this on the table to think about.

Most of the comments about how someone was treated were and I assume this for conversation on phone inquires buying a bus.

It was brought to my attention about persons looking at real estate. If a customer calls a real estate agent inquiring about a house in the $300-$900 K range agents are trained to pre qualify the buyer. They won’t even show a house unless the person is qualified ,I’am told.

So in defense of bus salesmen maybe questions were directed to do the same on the high end buses. Maybe after some bus salesmen , spend time, send pictures, talk about the weather they want some hope the person has the marbles to afford the bus.

[Ken]

I may create a bit of controversy for saying this, but I couldn’t be more opposed to towing a trailer, especially a stacker. First, our coaches were not built to drag a lot of weight behind them. If the trailer is heavy enough the coach needs to be modified, and that is only to reinforce the rear structure for the excess weight. I am not sure what impact the extra weight has on braking or the life of the transmission.

But if I ignore the argument above I get to another personal gripe. We carry too much stuff. All of us. If there is open space on a coach I will bet it is full. Any coach. Our closets are full, our drawers are full, our bays are full. If we tow trailers I am willing to also bet that after a while the trailer will also be full. Weight is our enemy. It costs us fuel mileage. It degrades performance. It may affect the safety of the coach.

Having managed to remain married for 50 years I hope everyone recognizes I cannot allow my wife to read this, I cannot have a discussion with her on this topic, and I am limited to what I can leave behind. About once a year I sneak around my coach and remove duplcates of Glass Plus (do we really need four bottles?), countless Zip Lock bags, multiple boxes of vanilla wafers, and about a gazillion CDs. I don’t dare touch anything in her closet or drawers, but I do pare down what is in my closet or drawers. (How is it possible that I might need all 15 pair of jeans?). I just know if we dragged a trailer it won’t be long before it held more clothes, more food, extra coffee makers (just in case), and maybe a golf cart so we don’t have to walk.

I fully expect to be flamed for my stance on reducing weight, while dragging an H2 Hummer behind the coach, but in my defense I would rather have a Honda Element or Subaru Forester, but I have been told we need a Hummer for protection against other drivers.

But there is one distinct benefit of a trailer that I wish was available to me when towing 4 wheels down, and that is the ability to back up. Having that ability almost justifies a trailer (no it doesn’t actually).

[Ken]

TIPS:

You will need several hours of uninterupted time.

Have on hand shims to center the glass in the frame on installation.

A glass mans suction handle makes the job of removal and insertion easier.

Cut the caulk around the glass, inside and outside, completely to remove the old glass.

To cut out the old glass (the outside cut) make an flexible knife out of a good quality hack saw blade, grind the teeth off for about 1 1/2 inch and sharpen, wrap the remainder with tape for a handle. this gives a flexible tip blade to cut the old caulk between the frame and the glass around the frame perimiter.

The best utility knife for the job, (cuttung around the inside perimiter) one that is sharp, is the industrial type with the break off tips.

Be sure to remove all old caulk from the frame and glass.

Line the perimiter of the frame with painters tape. (inside as well as out) This will produce a straight and clean line after the caulk is tooled and the tape is removed.

For the best job be sure to let the coach sit for 24 hours for a complete cure of the caulk.

Have some other window in the coach open during the cure period so as to not blow out /loosen the freshly installed window when the door is closed.

The job on an XL drivers window (one glass) requires slightly more than one tube of sika-flex.

THE SKILL LEVEL REQUIREMENTS:

Cutting out the glass without damaging the paint around the frame.

Installing the correct amount of caulk around the frame, before the glass is inserted, to have enough to fill the void and tool and not to have too much to be excessive and sloppy.

JIM

[Ken]

Ed,

We were there last year and it was fantastic. Jon also just stayed there for a week in January and he liked it as well. Hope your doing well, sorry not to get to PSL this year. Any chance you can make Myrtle Beach?