Harry
Forum Replies Created
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I’m headed there Monday for new windshields. I’ll let you all know how it goes. Russ
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I would like to add a little to the discussion.
All refrigerants have a “flash point”. Under the right conditions they will all burn, including Freon. Companies selling propane based drop in replacements make a big deal of this fact in trying to convince potential purchasers of their propane based product’s safety. I know of no company selling a propane based replacement for R-12 or 134A that even mentions the fact their product is propane based. They may use the term HC based or hydro carbon based to describe the product. They will compare their flash point to that of Freon to suggest their refrigerant is safer.
As a curmudgeon I try to see if claims pass the sniff test. I parse the words and phrases. I question things left unsaid. I think John has raised a very good point with his original post and as I look into the claims for propane based refrigerants I find none claim to be used for production vehicles. We all know how manufacturers are sensitive to costs and if they aren’t using a product that is cheaper and works better something is wrong. There’s a red flag for me. A big red flag.
Cars and buses and trucks just are not built using anything other than the refrigerants that were originally installed in our coaches and house systems. Even though the drop in replacements compare their performance and cost with the refrigerants we use in a very favorable light, I was unable to find a single one used as original equipment. As a fuel propane is relatively safe because it will not ignite or explode until the air fuel ratio is correct, but when it is a correct ratio as John points out it has the potential to be very dangeous. A failed seal, a broken line, or anything that can create a leak in the sealed system can relase the refrigerant and once that occurs all that is required is an ignition point and the refrigerant that kept you cool becomes a potential source of serious burns or injury.
When I look at the risk versus reward ratio I can not justify the use of a product with such potential just to save a few bucks.
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The grounds could be anywhere. The first question I would ask however is how you know all the problems are ground related. It is not uncommon for the thermocouple on a pyro to fail for example (the probe at the manifold). Have you tested for power at the driving lights for example and do you have power to them but no ground?
Fuses and circuit breakers are not on the ground side of the electrical circuit so you are questioning items now on the positive side of the DC circuits.
On your Liberty the driving lights, fog lights and cigarette lighter should be on the house electrical circuits. Liberty marks the wires that terminate at the device with a number. You should look for that number in the electrical bay on the LH wall. That is the source of power, but remember it goes through the switch on the dash before it reaches the lights. I would start at the device and just check working backwards.
The pyro gauges and associated wiring back to the thermocouples are Prevost. as is the Jake. Trouble shooting the pyros from my perspective would start at the probe which fails over time. The Jake problems could be at the switch or the solenoids under the valve covers or any place in between. Not to gloss over it, but diagnosing a Jake problem requires a lot of additional info, such as is one side working and not the other? Is the whole Jake system not working? etc.
You can rule out the switch by jumpering power from the 12V stud in the rear electric box to the studs for each side of the Jake. I can’t tell you the numbers, but the diagram on your engine door should show which numbers they are. With the engine idling, as you supply power to each Jake stud, you are effectively bypassing the switch up fromt and verifying the solenoids work and the wiring to them is not compromised. You will note the engine lug if all is OK. Do that on both terminals and each should produce a notable load on the engine. If not you problem is isolated in the wiring or solenoids in the rear.
If the engine lugs on each terminal, focus your search on the Jake switch pad.
Free advice……..repair problems as they occur. As little problems accumulate repairing each is by themselves not big issues, but when they build up after a while you don’t know if you are on foot or horseback. If your pyros were both working they would have told you enough information to be able to do a pretty good diagnosis of your Jake problem while you sat in the driver’s seat. Now without them you increase the effort required.
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My home address willl be just fine. I think you have it on file…
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It looks like the recall applies to XZU2, XZU3, and XM505.
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Nice visit yesterday: back to subject. compressor -to air dryer-to wet- tank then air is distrubited through outlet half way up tank. = unless this tank is over 40% full of oil/water you should not have much past it. sounds like you still have life left in that compressor. When your recovery time starts to get slow then start looking. Just remember you usually run in realy hot heavy load conditions where higher than normal oil usage is normal. Bob
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They are model Freedom 25.
I did check the manual and there is an option for “Idle Sensitivity”. This function is set via DIP switches on the backs of the remote panels. This setting will keep the inverters from suppling power if the only draw is the inherent resistance in the system. This is to save some battery power. I was optimistic, but unfortunately the swiches were set to disable this function.
It seems like this behavior is the norm for Libertys, and the DirecTV DVRs are just particularly sensitive to brief interruptions of power. I am thinking the easy solution is to add a small UPS on the DVR.
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My coach was equipped with the baffle but the rear third was removed for the Liberty side tailpipe. Obviously, this not only negates the effect of the baffle but dumps exhaust right where Prevost doesn’t want it. After installing the oem muffler/tailpipe, I replaced the baffle with a new one of the proper length. It looks very nice, but I must admit I’ve noticed no change in the coolant tempearature gauge.
P.S. Jon: I’ve figured out how new posts are designated!
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Hi
Dale,I
just recently upgraded the Royale to a Trac Star SV 360 and it works
great. One reason I chose Trac Star is because the only wires
required from the sat dish is the coax cable. Since I was replacing
an old unit with a bundle of wires and coax, I didn’t want to have to
run all new wiring, as the old stuff was inaccessible in places.I
believe Trac Star is the only one out there that uses a single coax
cable and no additional wiring needed. -
Ron, just left Bluewater a week ago was in lot 76, wind blew like crazy for the whole time had no sides on the Tiki , am back at Riverbend, which we really like and have come close to purchasing, but each time back away and rethink the thing out and at this time in our lives ownership just does not work for us. We like to travel, and enjoy nice resorts and at the present it is not a problem to get reservations about any where with a little advance notice. Also I guess if you full time ownership would be something to consider, you know a place to hang your hat so to speak! Gary