Greg
Forum Replies Created
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It sounds like your Webasto is shutting off due to over temp condition. I’d check the circulation pump and solenoid valves.
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Surprised no one was de-capitated.
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First do any of those switch do anything? If not maybe there is no power to the controls. Have you volt metered to see if the switches get 12v and pass thru switch? Maybe “house lights” is a master switch so driver can turn off all the lights. I know in my Beaver I have three master panels that either turns all lights on or off and switches for individual lights.
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34 years old and still going strong! That’s a great tribute to Prevost and Liberty Coach.
I’m only going to guess, but could that House Light switch also control just the porch light? Can you see if those switches control relays? Entry Lights switch controls a relay that puts the two inside lights on and the porch light, House Light control a relay that puts only the porch light on? Maybe the House Light relay is bad?
Just guessing. Great to see a vintage coach still running. Gives me confidence that our 19 year old coach will run another 15 years (or more).
Let us know how this turns out for you.
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Yes I did send you info last night, Did you get it ? to: dansyl159@gmail.com ?? Thanks’
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I would rather eat bees every morning that pull a trailer everytime we used the coach. We have a 26′ Bravo enclosed trailer (with a 5′ tongue) for the race cars. Because of the race cars, I accept needing to pull the trailer with the coach.
A trailer big enough to haul a car will be as wide as the coach. Even a short trailer (18′ to 20′ w/a 36-42″ tongue) will cut a path inside the coach’s rear wheel when rounding a corner. Hence you must be extremely careful when going around corners (especially in town) so the trailer doesn’t jump the curb, hit a parked vehicle, or get up against a light post.
With an enclosed trailer you will likely need to crawl under the car at all four corners to tie the car down; this gets old pretty quick, especially the front tires. Most cars today sit low to the ground and usually when you open the driver’s door to get out it hits the wheel well inside the trailer. This can be mitigated by fastening boards to the floor of the trailer to drive at least the left side tires up onto so you can swing the door open. If the car is wide enough, or you have “grown” enough since high school you will not be able to get out between the open door and door frame; this is why you see enclosed trailers with a large door on the driver’s side … driver escape hatch. If you do need an escape hatch, make sure you have a ladder or step stool to climb down from the trailer as the first step is a doozey.
If you’re inexperienced backing any vehicle up with a trailer, or just haven’t caught on to do it … then a 40 or 45 foot coach and event a 20′ trailer is likely going to be a challenge for you. I’m not saying any of us can’t do it, but it will take practice, a great spotter (with a radio), a good understanding of the geometry involved, lots of patience, and thick skin (especially in a camp ground). The more people giving you advice, the greater the risk of something bad happening. Campgrounds are full of “wannabe trailer backing experts”.
We just finished a 78 day trip with the coach pulling the HHR. If we had a trailer, it would not have been pleasant. We regularly take the coach and HHR to places that would NOT even think about going with even a short trailer.
I haven’t even touched on maintaining another vehicle in additional to all your other maintenance responsibilities.
If I were making a direct run from Wisconsin to Florida (with at stop at ETLC) or Arizona or Texas, and then spending the winter in one place I might consider a trailer.
BUT if your mission requires a trailer (and there are some that do), I’ll share my trailer experience with you. I’ve owned a used 24′ POS and a bespoke 26′ Bravo; both enclosed, both bought from one of the largest enclosed trailer dealers in the country. I would not buy a new trailer off the Internet or from a dealer who wasn’t local. Who is going to do your warranty work? Who is going to take care of problems?
I highly recommend: 7K axles which gives you 14000# of capacity (most trailer builders give you better tires with more plies with 7K axles), 5′ tongue (S/B long enough to keep the corner of the trailer from the corner of the coach, #1 goal when pulling or backing a trailer with your coach), spread axles if the trailer is long enough (makes the trailer much more stable), spare tire well (two if there is room) under the floor (yes you have to unload the trailer to get at the spare, but creates room in the trailer), 12 volt battery (in under-floor box as close to front trailer axles as possible) for interior lights when not hooked to tow vehicle or to power a winch, carpet on the walls (at least part way up, NOT behind the the E-track), horizontal E-track on the walls (one row 24 to 30″ off floor, second 40″ to 48″ up) for fastening things to the trailer walls (now you got a trailer, you will use it for MORE than hauling a car and/or motorcycle), a beaver tail (last 3′ or so of floor is angled down to reduce the angle of the ramp door and soften the inflection point at the hinge (makes loading and unloading cars with a low nose much, much easier, and finally rollers at the back of the trailer (the geometry between the back of the coach and the trailer puts the tail of the trailer on the ground once in a while and the roller help quit a bit).
I’m not a big fan of aluminum trailers when pulling with a pickup, Suburban, or coach. I don’t think the lighter weight of the trailer means that much in fuel savings unless you’re traveling 50,000 miles/year or more. It might help if you need lots of useful load. I would advocate an aluminum ramp door which should be easier to lift than my steel door.
Lights. Most enclosed trailers don’t come with enough clearance and tail lights. The more lights on the trailer the easier it is for people to see it at night and the easier it is for YOU to see the trailer when backing at night. I can tell you from experience that even with all the lights in the coach turned OFF, on a moonless, cloudy night with rain or snow the trailer easily disappears in the mirrors behind you. More LED lights on the trailer helps deal with that problem.
As Jon observed … flat towing a pickup with a motorcycle or golf cart seems like a very practical solution.
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Mine still leaned after Norgrens and airbags until I changed the R-12 that controls the tag brakes. The pilot air to that R-12 is the air to the tag bag. If it leaks you will still have the leans.
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Thanks,
I found this in one of the RV magazines. It truly represents what we face driving on the Interstates today.
A dangerous moron who brags about how he nearly killed everyone including the dog and a pro.
This is one of my favorites……
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I’m not getting into this again.
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I have a XL 1991 one side fill only Passenger side. I tilt the bus to that side is high while filling. I generally go full blast until it clicks off the I hand squeeze until I see the foam settled and I see the fuel level. I have had many splashes while trying to squeeze in a few more gals. On mine tank the vent line is plumbed so it vents about 6 inches from the end of the fuel fill hole. You can’t see it but it comes in from the top side of the fill neck. All this I can see from inside the 3rd pass bay. I have seen times when I can hear the fuel sloughing around and seen the air and fuel splash out of that vent in to the fuel flowing in.
There is even a cap on the vent hose that I think is made so you can pressurize the tank forcing fuel through to the engine, in case you run dry, God forbid. I have laid awake many nights wonder what the little air valve on the vent line was for and this is the only thing I can think of, plus I have never heard anyone ever talk about it.
sorry the picture is on it’s side.
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very nicely done. Had a great time. trip home from Driggs to I-84 the next day was very memorable also.
Greg
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Also, buy one that is produced for Full Timing, better built than the normal sticks & staples.
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Try again Harry. Jon does not want anything to do with Apple, no iPhone, no iPad, and not even iScream for dessert.
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Congratulations Harry! My wife and I plan on reading it but we have not yet placed an order since we are waiting to see how we can get an e-signature to the e book version. Going full time has really put a damper on what we can store. Actually, just waiting to finish the book I am currently reading.
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Mike, you have a sophisticated coach made by a high quality converter. You also had a modification some schmuck added because he didn’t have a clue what he was doing. I hope that is not the tip of the iceberg and reflects other work on your coach that is lurking in the background.
My first reaction upon seeing that is that you had an old coach that has passed through many hands and all later fixes were band aid approaches. However your signature line shows a fairly late model coach so with luck that is the only dumb thing someone did previously to your coach. I would strongly suggest you spend the time and money to have a qualified company like Marathon to go over the coach with an intent to see if any other “cheap fixes” were done to the coach that might compromise your safety or the use of the coach.
With fresh batteries and no constant charging they should go months without needed charging and if they do not someone needs to find out why. Loads may have been added by someone previously and those loads, in addition to being a current draw might be on unprotected or poorly designed circuits with the potential to cause a fire or damage something.