Davy
Forum Replies Created
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Your setup looks similar to what we have in our Marathon. You have momentary push button switches, we have membrane push button switches. We also have a wall of low voltage controlled switches in the rear closet.
Since you can control the light from other switches reliably, your problem is either the particular swall switch or the control wire going to the central relay. Interesting that your switch always works after you use the master switch to turn all lights off. If the wall switch unit has a cable connector, it might be worthwhile cleaning the contacts and reseating the connector. If his does not help you’d have to look for a replacement wall switch unit. It might be good to have a spare anyway. There should be a way to move the labels to the new switch.
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I will bring the one I bought to amuse Jon with years ago.
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Thats were i went could not have went to a better place . I would strongly suggest them to anyone . They take care of all the reverations busses and have some very sharp mechanics . Only wish they were local . By the way my noise and vibration was the staineless trin under ft bumper . Who would of guessed?
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Headed to brake supply in morning. 4 inch diaphram for one (available online) $6 the other is in cyl /spring loaded I am unfamilar with. When in doubt =take it to someone who knowns. Will learn something new tomorrow without personal injury. Bob
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On my last coach, a 42-foot Beaver Contessa, I always used my tag lift. On it, you could set it to automatically lift automatically when the coach was below 5 mph. That feature I did not use.
On my current coach I used it a few times at the beginning and haven’t since. The few times I did use it the coach lost too much height in the rear. I did wait a couple minutes once to see if it would return to normal ride height and it did not. So, for now at least, the tag lift switch gets no use.
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Some questions have no single correct answer. There are numerous factors I would consider before I made a decision about supplying a coach in storage with electric. First, I would want to know without a doubt if my batteries were in good shape. The age is unimportant. I want a golden guarantee they will hold their charge. Then I would combine that information with what I know about the length of storage.
My waffling is because I am concerned about leaving power to a coach if I cannot monitor the coach daily. Why? Glad you asked. Ideally the best storage, especially your vintage coach is with the inverters on to maintain the batteries. Our inverters are excellent three stage chargers and if always powered up they extend the life of batteries. But if the power goes off, those same inverters are slowly going to drain battery power and the result might be dead batteries or damaged batteries.
So for an unattended storage I would make sure my batteries, house and chassis are good, fully charged and then I would park the coach and turn off all power to the coach and from the batteries. The coach should be good for at least a couple of months at which time I would power up the coach and fully charge the chassis and house batteries before putting it back to sleep.
The only two times my coach is not plugged in is when I am driving, or when I am changing batteries. But then again my coach is stored 15 paces from the house and I am in my garage daily.
If you do need to keep the coach powered set the inverters to the lowest charge current or rate and a 20 amp circuit should be more than enough. Turn off everything except the inverters and everything will be fine for extended storage as long as the power supply is constant.
Notice I haven’t said a word about the chassis batteries. Unless you have a chassis battery charger that is a high quality 3 stage just shut off the coach battery master switches and check the chassis battery charge at least monthly. Mine can go 3 months without any charge at all (and the master swtiches on) and I will still be at 24.5 volts or higher if the batteries were fully charged before storing.
No advice you are going to be given is worth a cent if your batteries are not in good shape, in which case you should disconnect every single battery cable so a bad battery will not ruin every other battery, and even still you are going to need a new set even if one is bad.
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Thanks I will post some as soon as the deal is done! You can get a sneak preview at California Coach.com it’s the 2006 triple slide coach. I bought it from Steve Bennett .
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Congrads Sid…and if I can be the first “nice pick”. Now the Marathons are gaining ground.
When you cruise through KC the BBQ is on me. Just tell me if your choice is wet or dry rub.
KC home of the Royal American BBQ contest, grand prize $25 K cash. All you have to do for the moola-la is come in 1st place in ribs, chicken and briskett. Only had 300 BBQ’ers try last year.
I’am still smile-in on the new Marathon owner. Pictures maybe ?
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We’re discussing an online Store with the company that did those hats and T’s, but not sure if there is enough interest to make it work. Buying in small quantities makes the items a little pricy.
I would like a ballcap with a gray pony tail sticking out the back (I am missing the Sixties) and I need an XLFB (Extra Large with a Full Belly) on the T-shirt …. Do you take VISA?
BCO
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Sandy & Ed are attending, also.
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MMMMMmmmmm Cedar Point,Ohio, great Amsement Park,best Roller Coasters anywhere
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I am not familiar with Marathon conversions, but in general I would get to know the coach and because of your post the first thing I would do is isolate each house battery and test it after they have been charged and the inverters go into float. Just based on what you said I suspect they might have problems. Even if the issue is one failed battery they need to be replaced in sets.
Typically your chassis batteries will not be charged from shore or generator power, however some conversions do have chassis battery chargers installed by the converter. Generally speaking you do not have to charge chassis batteries, so if they are losing their charge over a short period of time you either have a battery issue or you have a phantom load. Again, checking the batteries seems called for.
In your new-to-you Marathon try to get to know it. Learn the systems, learn what capabilities the coach has such as chassis battery charger, or a way to connect the house and chassis batteries if needed for starting, etc. I think Sawdust refers to this knowledge as weapons in your war chest. Knowledge of your coach is very important and your best resource is your converter, manuals, your own knowledge, and advice from other owners of the same or similar vintage Marathons. Keep in mind these coaches seem overwhelmingly complex initially, but if you take the time to develop an understanding of your coach and its systems you are likely to find they were designed and built with a great deal of logic and reliability making them not so scary.
Ask questions here, expect answers here, and sometimes the answers will actually be right. (I’m kind of kidding. On a forum you have to learn how to separate the wheat from the chaff)
If you need batteries or need battery information Tom is the guru. Your question about equalization is best left to him to discuss.
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My Ram 1500 has only had problems when the key is inadvertently left on “accessory”.
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Joel and John,
An article entitled “Mirrored Handle Replacement Procedure” has been placed in the “Articles” section on this web site. I trust it will be helpful if you decide to replace your door handles. If you try this and it doesn’t work out for you I would like to hear from you.
Tom Roberts
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I think you are making a huge mistake, but it’s your bus. You can always put it back together when the engine cradle breaks…