David
Forum Replies Created
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Just as a fyi, after checking the coil and the switch I determined the actual problem was the power line running from the circuit breaker to the switch. Talked to the guy at Prevost and based on his recommendation I just unhooked and taped off the old power line and ran a new one, now it works just like it is supposed to.
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ATT for us.
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This is a good opportunity to remind readers of this thread that we have very reliable brake systems, but it is important to verify it is working as intended by doing pre-trip DOT brake test procedures.
A failed or failing brake diaphragm can go from a small seemingly inconsequential air leak to a large tear that will prevent travel. The same problem is just as likely on the service brakes as on parking brakes with different characteristics.
When the leak is on the parking brake system the repair that will keep you going is to plug the air to the chamber and cage the brake. All you will lose is one wheel’s parking brake.
On the service brake side of things you will see a fast loss of air when the service brakes are applied. The fix to that issue is easier because all that is needed is to plug the air to the brake. In both instances plugging the leak can be as simple as putting a dime in the fitting to block the flow. Not leak proof, but definitely will slow the loss of air. Another possible temporary fix is to use a vice grip to clamp the hose shut or bend the hose and wire tie it.
I am not suggesting you hold off replacing brake chambers until they fail, but if you experience a problem the temporary repairs keep you going until you can get service to replace the chambers.
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I have seen black mirrors on a coach and I thought they looked great. I think they look good on a coach with a black painted front (which mine does). my mirrors are in great shape now, nut if I ever replace, it will definitely be with black.
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HWH can raise it up or the Prevost Level Low system, which is the rotational knob (left, right, front) and the up / down toggle switch, can raise it up.
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Works fine for me IPad and IPhone.
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Tom and I apparently made posts at the same time. Thanks Tom.
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Thanks for the feedback, I will take a picture of it and upload.
As for the maintainer, I will take a picture of it too.
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Thanks Jon, that’s what I did and drove home carefully. I’m back. More as I know it… I think another caliper replacement is in my future (did the left tag a month ago)
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Like you, we weighed the pros and cons and decided to go with new. Prevost worked with us a little on the final price. As they say, “there’s not like new”.
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Jon my 12.7 is stamped 500 hp have Friend 2001 CC is 515 hp
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Jon:
Thank for constantly reminding all of us about getting under the bus. I am definitely one of those people that says O it will only take a minute, no need for the support jacks.
Do you think any damage could have been done with about 3000 miles Put on nearly dry new front end parts?
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Congrats, beautiful bus…
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I had a similar situation last summer. I too thought I’d have to cut the door panel.
But I was able to find right angle screw drivers at the hardware store which allowed me to first pop-off the screw covers and slowly (90 degree turns at a time) unscrew the screws that were “hidden” by the door frames.
If I can find the post, I’ll add a link.
DON’T CUT THE DOOR PANEL!!!!
Once you get the door panel off, you’ll likely notice what the problem is … the connection between the door handle and the latching mechanism is very poorly designed and doomed to eventual failure. One of the very few things that has disappointed me about the Prevost shell.
Then I had to order a new door handle mechanism from Prevost. I ordered the mechanism at less than $200 from Prevost Parts. But apparently Prevost ran out of the NOS part and they sent me an XLII door handle mechanism at over $500. We were at the Liberty rally in Maine last fall, and I had the Liberty techs from Florida install it. They told me that they didn’t have to use all the parts and had to rebuild part of it work.
I suspect that eventually all the pre-XLII X-series door handle mechanisms will eventually fail. Consider proactively changing out the handle and mechanism.