Calvin
Forum Replies Created
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Like others have stated, WINTERIZE IT. Drain the fresh water tank. Put 15 gals or so of the pink RV antifreeze in it. Pump that into/thru all the plumbing.
I don’t believe 15 amp will suffice. If you can’t winterize it? I would run the generator, turn on the inverter/chargers, turn on the water heater, and run the webasto.Our bus lives here at our house under cover. It is suppose to be in the single digits here NW of San Antonio, TX soon. This isn’t the first time. I plug it into 50 amp service for rare events like this. I never winterize our bus or feel the need to run the webasto. I turn on both inverter/chargers on. I turn the hot water heater on. It radiates heat into the plumbing bay where the bulk of the plumbing is at and where the gray and black tanks are. I drape a 110v electric blanket over the mostly full fresh water tank. Set a radiator looking heater in the bathroom and set it to 800 watts(medium) and open the cabinets under each sink. Last, I close all the window blinds.I hope this helps -
Eugene – sounds like you are set if you have a charger on your house batteries. NOW is the time to go test and see if your webasto will run, and if not, get Rudy to service it. I have a feeling you will need Rudy’s expertise.
***AFTER service, you must run it 30 minutes a month to prevent the webasto fuel nozzle from clogging (per Rudy)
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I currently run a battery tender on my chassis batteries and a charger on the house batteries – if I add anything else it trips storage facility breaker.
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Do I need to be plugged into shore power to operate the webasto?
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I do have a Webasto heat system but never used it. Does it require the generator to be running when in use?
& a Good Morning to you
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Starter is confirmed bad and I have a replacement.
Thanks everyone for the comments and help!
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With 1 50 DN, he will have a Equalizer for the chassis and an Equalizer for the house and most likely an Isolator in the engine compartment.
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Are you guys talking about the truck stop Lizards?
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My biggest question tho, when did prevost start making us pay for return shipping. New to us, tho we dont return much.
Thanks for letting me know Jon, the prevost parts system change. I use our chassis number, X-7004, which just happens to our to be our Featherlite number. I just refer to it being a Featherlite, just because, indicating its a motorhome chassis before they ask. So Prevost going back to a decentralized parts system. I loved working with “Charlie” as we were on voice recognition level. Interesting . Bus has been sitting since March 19, 2020 when we d3cided to bring it home from Indio. Not going back. Why go back into the belly of the beast, with viral spread out of control. Colorado (our county infection rate for 350K pop. Is 5.3%) is doing fairly well, since “most” are following mask, distancing, etc and we’ve relaxed things so restaurants, gyms, etc can re-open with limited capacity. We dont leave the house except for necessities, or occasional exercise of a vintage car
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did vibration start after prevost changed universal? There is a clocking problem I have had in past when reinstalling.. drive shaft not orientated in sequence.
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Harry, Happy Belated B Day, and Sorry I missed the Big Day. I went ahead and sent a box full of hundreds as I know, having a 1991 XL myself, you need it to keep a going. Sorry again as the box came back as “Undeliverable” . Oh well maybe next year.
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Just removed mine, Eugene. Some say remove while others say causes no harm to toad. Have driven 10,000 miles with it, yet have not driven it since removal, but believe the mud flaps behind both the drive and tags will be sufficient. Do not see value in the full width mud flap at the very rear other than cosmetics.
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I could not figure out how to interface the screen to switchinputs. The original screen had been modified internally.
Any help appreciated
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All I can say was previously said.
We may never ever have to access our engine. But if we do there may be a need for proven access, something that can be done without having to resort to hours and hours of labor, or disassembly of entire cabinets.
The best case scenario is a planned engine repair or tuneup, something we can schedule time or a shop to provide access via removal of converter installed stuff. Some coaches allow easy access. Others are so complex pulling the engine back may be the best option. But the point I am making is critical. If you need to access the top of the engine, something prevented by the converter with cabinets or some type of interior work, figure out what is needed before it is needed.
Not all engine work is planned. If you are on the road and something needs to be serviced immediately, consider what or how that access is going to be provided. Do you want some local Freightliner dealer who has never worked on a coach tearing apart your bedroom closet? Or will you bury your head in the sand and just hope you will never be put in the situation?
Or are you OK risking damage, expense or the cost of pulling an engine to have a mechanic fix a bad wire to an injector wire, which is 15 minutes of labor, preceded by hours of pulling an engine or tearing apart your rear closet?
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i had the center coil off and checked it, it is working as i cracked the air line coming out of it and it hissed air