Bob
Forum Replies Created
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John
I don’t know where you live but if you decide to remove your manual zip dees, please keep me in mind, I am interested in the whole coachs awnings.
Rob
91 XL 40
Missouri
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happens all the time. By your your serial # that is the way I would have started. We were looking for a starting point. Do wish you luck.I hate electrical ghost. Usually turn out to be something unrelated and simple.. No offense taken from me for I understand I learn something new every day. Do share outcome.
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24 volt cutoff switch still mounted in the 4th bay where it was originally. The only thing I did was remove a cable running from the + terminal of 3rd battery to the off position of the cutoff switch and move it to the + booster block in the back curb side compartment next to the engine. I also switched the heavy cable with the red shrink wrap from the off terminal to the on terminal.
This is a pic of the voltage regulator (VR) in it’s new position in the curb side engine compartment attached to the fender skirt. The black wire coming off the VR is the ground wire and runs to the relays to the left of the VR and then runs forward to the junction mentioned in the previous post. The wires run forward and attach at the terminal number 20 on the jucntion. The 12 volt block in the lower leg center of the pic has a bolt head protruding through the back side of the wooden board that everything is mounted on so when I installed it, I put plastic spacers behind the board so the head did not touch the metal fender. That was how it was installed in the original location in the 4th bay. At the very top of the pic are the dual vanners, the left one powering the ATEC and headlights and the right one for everything else. Below is the new battery box I welded up and attached cables to. You can see, I made many new cable due to bad corrison on them before. In the very center of the pic, you can see 3 cables coming from the top down, those are the cables from the vanners mounted on the ceiling of that compartment.
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Rob,
To post a picture hit reply and a box will drop down for you. You know how to do that so the next step is to look to the left of the you tube box and you will see a picture of a tree with the sun. Click on that and a new box will drop down. Click on upload and go to your photo library via the box that drops down, select the photo and click “open”. In a few seconds it will load in the box
Click Okay and the picture will load on the post. Click on POst Reply and it will show up.
In my picture the blue thingy is the isolator, the voltage regulator is to its right, the monitor which lights the annunciator bulbs on the dash is to the right of the regulator, and below the AC hoses with the white label is my equalizer. The batteries are below that. The circuit breakers and the master switches for the chassis are in the lower right corner of the photo with only part of the 12 volt master switch partially visible.
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Bob
Yes, when I moved the batteries, I used the chassis ground back by the starter rather than the one in the battery compartment in the 4th bay. It is used for the starter and the engine case ground so I thought it should be fine. I do not know what a kern connection is but I used an aluminum connector that you slide the bare cable into each side and then tighten a screw down on the cable since the cable is #6 wire. I was concerned since the original cable that I cut to extend is copper and the new cable is aluminum. Don’t know, since I am not an electric guy, if theis dissimilar metals would cause this kind of problem but I doubt it. I suppose the connections could have corroded but it is only been two weeks since the lights worked normally and I then embarked on this project. I will check the voltages but I think it must have been something I did or didn’t do that caused the problem, especially since it has been only two weeks since everything was normal. Speaking of grounding, the ground wire off the voltage regulator has two branches, one to 4 relays next to it and one to the old substation above where the batteries used to be. The one cable that goes to the substation has 3 branches on it. One of them goes to old chassis ground in the battery compartment and two that attach to the old battery substation. I have found the location for one of the ground wires on the substation but there is one ground wire branch that I have no idea where it goes. I have looked at the diagram and it only shows one location for the ground wires on the substation. That is how I have it hooked up now but it clarly is not working. I would post a pic to show you guys what I am talking about if I knew how to do so. I did use the + booster block to run power forward to the 24 volt cutoff switch leaving it in the original position rather than moving it also but all I did in that case was move the wires from one post to another, nothing else.
Rob
91 XL 40
Missouri
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rubber or fiberglass? fender Bob
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I do not know who Rick is but would also like some of his money to pay for some upgrades we are contemplating 1-Remove exsiting full length Girard on curb side remove pull down awnings on street side repair all fastner points install two full length zipdee awnings and end caps, painted to match the coach, Remove exsisting J-lounge replace with booth with fabric back and leather seating to match exsiting interior. This is quite a bit of money but like our coach and presently want to keep it, I would not do this myself, have a quote and saw another 2005 being done, was very concerned about how the awnings would mount to roof but was relieved to see thru frame mounting. Any one done this?
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Bob, What would be the normal use of R -410 ?
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Some way this engine found it’s way into a 91 xl in the correct configuration for a bus engine. I understand that replacement/new engine were available until 2000 in any configuration. Military is still in production :: Mil spec and still in use. You know the military is exempt from everything and slow to change. We could invite the 2 stroke YODA– Don to join :: at this time I’m sure he has much more on his plate than time though. Might have to just defer to asking him questions. Don services the Bus and Boating industry 2 stroke needs.Makes them compliant to epa requirements. Plus does some amazing mods. Bob
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Diane,
I tried to get you a link to Mango’s Webasto manual, but no luck. It might be on the POG site, but if not see if Mike can get you a copy.
The fact it fires up and then shuts down suggests strongly that the portion of the Aquahot that is acting up is the Webasto unit. On first looking at the Webasto it might appear scary, but at POG I Jerry Winchester (JDUB) was able to disasemble his, install a new fuel pump and put it back together. If JDUB can fix one, anyone can fix one. Mango Mike’s manual is well illustrated and makes it easy to understand what to do. You might also be able to get a Webasto manual on line.
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Perhaps that 1999 8V92 was originally built for the military or emergency equipment which will never be licensed such as airport fire fighting trucks?
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Interesting, I had an 94 with a 93 shell and Prevost told me that was the last of the 8V’s. They switched over to the series 60 and early ones had the 5 speed like Jon said.
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If I were to want to send Jon a private note to pick up a fan motor he needed from me. Or just meet at a bus get together. Free dinner? you know the important things in life. new grand baby! The things that would clutter the board and would not intrest the vast majority of readers. New granddaughter due in may. Bob
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My 45 will lift the tag off the ground. Barely. Given enough time.
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Thanks Jon The reason I ask is a lady I met here at the park just bought a H and I believe it to be a forty foot, she was asking some questions as she had experienced some problems with electrical components of her coach Since she is a single lady and is a full timer I will steer her to this site and pog for answers to her questions. This is probably on the wrong heading maybe the admin can put it where it needs to be Thanks