Billy
Forum Replies Created
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The middle #3 coil is always a 24v coil from everything I’ve read for your year model Prevost. Maybe Art Waddle will chime in here soon since he has a 97 Royale and is a DIYer.
Here is what each of my 5 stack coils do:
12v #1 coil is for supply
12v #2 coil is for manually raising & lowering front
24v #3 coil is for the normal D”drive” mode
12v #4 coil is for manually raising and lowering the back right
12v #5 coil is for manually raising and lowering the back left
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Did it have any impact on noise levels? It certainly looks like a much better long term option.
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Mine either.
I have two or three plastic milk crates in the curb side tag bay set to the front of the bay that hold fluids, belts, etc. The crates might be smaller than “regular sized” milk crates.
Behind the crate I snake the sewer hoses back and forth on the floor of the bay with caps on them. The fresh water hose is a black on from Sears and is pretty stiff, resists kinking, easily can be shaped into a roll on the ground, and when I connect the ends can be easy pushed into the tag bay and sit on top of the sewer hoses.
Liberty has very thoughtfully put a small hinged door on our coach between and above the drive and tag tires on both side of the coach. Behind the doors is a steel tube which I thought was for sewer lines, but the connectors on the ends of the hoses won’t fit on. One of my projects is to replace the tubes with bigging tubes and maybe tubes with a radius pointing down to allow for longer hoses and promote drainage to the road.
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I was doing some rewiring on my house battery bank yesterday (I will share with you why shortly). When I finished there was no 12vdc power in the coach. Turns out on mine the battery shut off solenoid turns off when the master ground is removed. Remembering this thread pointed me in the right direction.
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I can’t answer for Glen, but I can say bus ownership and maintenance is significantly more complex than a house.
To start with the basis is a motor vehicle. While we can all relate to automobile maintenance, we also know our Prevost chassis is far more demanding. On a car today’s maintenance for at least the first 100,000 miles is changing the oil and putting air in the tires. OK, maybe there is a little more to it than that, but not much.
A car doesn’t have air brakes and all the complexity of an air brake system and the maintenance that entails. Air brakes are what all large vehicles have and there are a lot of small and not so small maintenance tasks depending on vintage. Because the coach has air systems both Prevost and the converter make use of air for the suspension, converter features such as sliding doors, bed lifts, door locks, belt tensioners, etc. There are hundreds of fittings and connections and valves and other devices, all of which may be sources of air leaks.
A bus has a lot of lights. A lot of filters. A lot of belts and hoses. Our buses have a lot of expensive tires and a whole lot of batteries. We have a generator. Our coaches in the house have heating and air conditioning systems, some for the entire bus while in motion or 3 or 4 for the house when it is parked.
The electrical system is complex. Most coaches have 12 and 24 volt DC power as well as 120 and 240 volt AC power. My point is the typical coach has a lot of moving parts, significantly more complex than the average house and then as we drive it down the road our highways are trying to shake it all apart.
As negative as all that sounds when a bus has been well maintained and maybe even zeroed out Prevost conversions are pretty reliable. If an owner tackles some of the maintenance himself the actual cost of ownership, in order of expense is depreciation, insurance, and then maintenance which has to include things like tires, batteries, fluid and filter changes, air bags, brake chambers, plus occasional repairs. At today’s prices fuel is $.30 per mile.
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Now, I will be armed with good information and will sound like I know what I am talking about when I meet the concrete guys … 🙂
Dick in Wisconsin … great advice about hydronic heat! Some of you know that I am a Kraut and in-floor heat has been around in private homes in Germany for 40-50 years and is considered nothing special.
We installed in-floor heat (hydronic and or electric) in all the places we have owned and lived in over the years. Would not want to be without it.
We have a combination of hydronic and electric floor heat in the bus and during the past 4-5 days, when Custer, SD, experienced an unseasonally early snow storm dumping 10 inches of snow overnight and dropping the temps down into the 20’s, we were warm and cozy inside. I do not know how tent campers survive in this kind of weather.
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Jon
I totally agree with you something seems very wrong. May I ask what bags you have on your tag? The tech in Nashville said it should be a 630259 for all Motorhomes
The other thing that seems strange to me is the 630259 has a travel of 8.5 to 22 percent inches. The 8.5 seems correct this stops the lifting arm just before it hits the housing. But the 22″ seems like way to much. That’s almost 14″ of travel. The axle will be hanging on the shock long before the bag is extended. And this is just a guess but I would think the airbag and the weight of axle combined would win that battle. If it could happen. Like when shop lifts the coach from the drive axle to change a tag tire. I have seen it done. -
You talking about the top electrical compt left front corner of bus? Do you want a close-up of any part of it?
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Shore power boxes are connected in one of two ways.
Boxes that are “home runs” each have their own breaker at a main distribution panel and once their breaker is turned off they are safe to work on. The lack of power still needs to be confirmed, but those boxes are dead when their breaker at the distribution panel is off.
The other type of power feed to shore power boxes is called “loop feed”. That means the box is in line with several other boxes and the power supply to the box loops from the main distribution panel to box to box to box. To kill power to loop fed boxes a row or portion of a row is shut down. If the box that needs repair is loop fed a number of them are going to be shut down and other RVs on that circuit are going to be without power until it is restored.
My free advice is do not service a bad box unless you really know what you are doing and if not, don’t.
A professional will work on a box with power. All the power in a box goes through the circuit breakers via “stabs” or prongs that go into a breaker when it is inserted in position. Remove the breaker, either a single or double pole and the attached wires have no power to them. A breaker can be replaced with power on but inches away from where you are working is power to the copper “stabs” and once mistake or false move and bad stuff is going to happen.
You will make a real ash of yourself if you do not know what you are doing or not careful.
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Thanks I will call today
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Art, Just went out to check and it is as needed . Faucet and hand held are both off. The only change I have made was to what i saw as a cut off valve from street water to tank. I also noticed the Headhunter pump was hot . The hose leaving the pump was also hot ? But with the pump off all lines were hot even the filtered water line . The water hose to coach is cold and only 10 feet away . Thank you for the ideas .
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Get your Racor filters from NAPA labeled WIX…..same stuff.
Have a NAPA store in your area stop in ask to see the WIX filter catalog. Everything you ever wanted to know about filters.
AL
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Every time that this situation occurs involving me I think to myself and sometimes say aloud, “Okay, you’ve got two pedals. Mash one of ’em”.
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That zerk fitting almost never gets any attention. Good post from Jon, greasing that pivot point will save the day.
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Al, is that N95 compliant