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Thanks so much!! Mine has aux gauge on dash
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I’m so jealous of your ability to draw inbetween/on the lines. My attempt of doing similar failed.. luckily it looks like we have close enough schamatics so imma just print yours 🙂
My understanding its this valve that connects the primary to secondary to accessory tank. IDK where that physically is located or if you replaced that but if I were you I’d remove and cap each side to see which one drains. Not sure where the check valves are
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Thanks Jon, So is the airbags on the accessory tank? It appears so on the schematics. I’m not certain what S and D means or where the check valves are.
Interesting how the secondary and accessory tanks are next to eachother and connected. I’m assuming the check valve is somewhere in there then.
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The engine driven compressor adds air to the system from the dryer to the wet tank, rear tank, front tank, and when the pressure is about 70 or 80 the protection valve allows air to enter the accessory tank.
Draining the entire system regularly is not only a way to insure moisture is removed, if it is done in sequence, starting with the wet tank if verifies all the valves are functioning. When airing up the chassis system the primary and secondary air tanks will reach 70 or 89 PSI before passing air into the accessory tank.
On the house side, an aux compressor should feed into the accessory tank directly, through a dryer or water separator. As long as the system was checked as described above aux compressor air pressure will be limited to the accessory tank and will not move past the tank to the others. If it does it is likely a failed protection valve or check valve.
If there is an inadequate dryer or water separator moisture will be fed into the accessory tank and problems will ensue.
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Every owner needs to understand how aux air enters their coach pneumatic system, and then recognize the moisture introduced by the aux compressor is trapped or collected.
The worst thing that can happen to a pneumatic system is to allow moisture to enter it. But if it does the potential damage can be mitigated by draining it. For a great number of owners doing so is not as simple as I made it sound.
Start by making sure the air dryer installed by Prevost is serviced regularly, and that anytime someone is under the bus all of the air tanks are drained in sequence, not only to drain moisture, but as a means of checking the integrity of the various valves within the pneumatic system, especially the brake system.
Usually a converter installed aux compressor that does not have an air dryer or moisture trap will deliver moisture to the accessory tank. Whatever type of device is used to trap aux compressor moisture, it needs to be drained or serviced regularly.
If dryers or traps are used and maintained, every time the tanks are drained of air not a drop of moisture will ever be seen. To appreciate how important that is imagine how moisture creates corrosion and then imagine what it will cost to replace all the Norgren valves, protection valves, and any other component with steel or raw aluminum exposed to that moisture.
On my coach I can trap around a cup of moisture per week when in a humid environment if the aux compressor is cycling often, such as for pocket doors and other air usage.
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It seems I have some form of one in my air stack, just need to investigate further.
Is there a pressure switch/relay for a compressor already installed somewhere? I bought one just hoping I don’t need to install it. I think it’s a 90/120. It’s like 5 degrees out this week so haven’t spent more than a couple minutes to look.
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I’ve used this type for years as replacements and have never had one fail. Do a search for pipe thread petcock. You may need several different size pipe threads.
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At least there are new conversations daily here. at POG it is almost dead. Used to be more technical than this website but no more. Will not be paying to renew POG.
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Heading through Nashville, I couldn’t resist stopping at BusForSale(.com) and have them try to find some air leaks but primarily check out the issues with the generator mentioned in the generator topic. They found that the fan belt (I knew needed replacing but could not figure out how to access) was so worn it was not properly spinning the water pump. I was seconds from failing as they turned it inside out to check condition and it fell apart.
The owner came in to check the engine compartment for another reason and found the idler pulley for the alternator had fallen off (yes, the pin that holds the pulley in the mounting hole had fallen out and was sitting on the frame. This was the old style manual adjuster. They were able to go out into their yard and find all the parts necessary to install the auto adjuster hardware and we are back in business. I can’t imagine what a disaster this would have been had we not been at BusForSale as these parts are very scarce. It had happened in the previous leg of our trip as I visually check all the engine components before leaving every morning. We were simply very lucky and I want to thank BusForSale for their eagle eye and professional service.
The shower worked out perfectly and no issues with tiles falling or anything else. The waterfall shower head uses too much water and will drain the 20gal water heater, but the other one is great.
I only put a couple small holes for the drain and it wasn’t draining fast enough and with the shower curb being so low water would fill up and leak out. The linear drain is long so I can easily add a bunch more. Now I have the sink and I added a 1.5in drain breather tube hopefully that fixes it.
Finally added a kitchen sink and dishwasher and added all plumbing.
Added 3 27in 4k monitors above the seats. Middle connects with the other TVs into the stereo while the other 2 connect to a laptop to display things like custom battery display and maybe weather or backup cams.
New powered smart blackout shade all hidden. Will get sides redone soon.
I’ll see how these screens look and feel while driving before I redo and make them perfectly even. Not sure if I want that panel tilted down or not.
Next steps:
Just got the 3rd gen starlink dish and will be installing on roof when mounts come in next week.
Water pump apparently is leaking, have 2 others so will get them swapped out and replaced with a large 2gal expansion tank.
Need to put pocket door between fridge and shower and custom pantry with microwave between fridge and counter.
Then hopefully I can work on my hexagon ceiling.
Your info sounds like what Prevost would do but it wasn’t how they originally put them on and seems completely overkill for a used RV, especially with a track record of them lasting a lot longer than people make it sound.
If any panel gets loose, pull it open a bit, clean in there then apply new VHB tape. If the panels last fine for a decade then one part gets a bit loose it’s safe to assume a proper repair will last another decade.
What makes the Rectorseal BETTER BUBBLE so much more effective is the fact it applies in almost gel form and clings where you put it which allows you to return and check fittings 15 – 20 minutes later to find all the small leaks that cumulatively add up to “big” leaks.
I buy and use the 8 ounce because its dauber allows precise application, and use the 32 ounce as a refill.
Cannot imagine you not experiencing great appreciation for this inexpensive product. Good hunting!
P. S. – google dawn and you will likely find it can be corrosive
This is what I use, it is what Jeff Rosenthal and many others recommend.