Tim
Forum Replies Created
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Yes. BF Goodrich is a Michelin brand. BFG is my second choice when Michelin is not available. Same mfg equipment as in Michelin plants.
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I bought Michelins from Best One and through their program and they were in the high $600’s.
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Grainger? McMaster-Carr? Local electrical supply outlet (not necessarily Lowes or Home Depot)? Local electrical contractor that does lots of commercial and industrial work?
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Slide seals are a replacement item and at some point are going to age and fail. When they do develop a leak such that they cannot hold pressure for any length of time it is unlikely they can be repaired for a number of reasons.
Ron is accurate in his assessment of where the labor is involved and because of it, even if leaks could be repaired, it is at best a 50/50 chance the leak is accessible from the front side without removal, and then it is highly likely because of its shape the leak will be on the portion of the seal that flexes and makes a sharp bend as it collapses when the slide room is moving.
Once age starts to cause leaks, whether due to cracking at the flex joint, or leakage due to abrasion the life of the seal is over.
A single person can change a slide seal. It works better with two because handling something like a seal isn’t easy because of the risk of getting it dirty or located incorrectly. Not many tools are required, but the removal and scraping process requires a good technique or just a whole lot of time to insure the mounting surface is free of all the old adhesive.
A scaffold is almost a requirement so those working on the replacement can move freely across the entire width of the slide.
And as Ron points out whoever replaces the slide had better know and understand how to retract and disable the slide pins, know how far and the process to bring the slide room in past the seal, and know and understaand how to remove the slide room top angle and reseal it correctly when it is reinstalled. An owner willing to take the time, who has friends to help and who will do the replacement carefully can save the cost of labor, but is a criticaal step positioning the seal correctly because there is no second chance. The adhesive is there to stay.
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Are you saying that the generator start gets it’s power from the house batteries?
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Where’s that LIKE button!!
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I have had the misfortune of having to replace both seals over a period of 24 months. As Jon indicated, it is an expensive experience. You could save yourself a little bit of money by ordering the seal direct from Prevost.
Key to a lasting installation of the replacement is the removal of the old glue/adhesive. That means a lot of scraping and it will account for some of the hours you will be charged for this job.
The installation of the new seal goes relatively fast. So I would say, you pay 2/3 for the labor of removing the old seal and cleaning-up and 1/3 for installing the new seal.
I have spoken to a couple of people who say that a leaking seal can be repaired. Like a bicycle inner tube. If you are handy and would like to give it a try, it would not be that difficult.
The hardest part will be the removal of the rail on top of the slide. This must be done so that the slide can be moved inside past the exterior wall. Only then can you remove or repair the leaking seal.
If you should attempt to do this, make sure that you know how to disable the slide pins. Otherwise … $$$$
In any event, the slide seals are something that can cause a big headache and a large bill. Been there, paid for that.
Cheers,
Ronald
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Your registration was cancelled Tim. If you want to attend, there are a couple slots left, so re-register asap.
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Stopped there three times… always spent more than my $10 certificate… Not complaining…
Not a destination but a perfect over night stop.
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Those new lights are darn good looking and with LED’s it must really pop! I’m sure you’re right about cleaning them not lasting. But I think I’ll try to clean them first for no other reason than I’m cheap.
One thing I’ve learned from asking the question is I don’t have to take the lenses off individually and that’s a help for sure. So thanks one and all for your comments you guys are the Ginchyest!
Harry
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Did not walk back that far… Good to know.
I’ll try those next time.
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Call Peter at Almost Chrome. He works on many of the entertainer coaches and does wheels and XL stainless sides as well. He also washes coaches, or did the last time I saw him. He had a shop last time I talked to him, but I heard a rumor he no longer has that. He has done my coaches at Prevost in the past.
615-351-5932 is the number I got him on last time I used him.
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Tom, I have a Prevost slide. I have had intermittent issues with the pins engaging when the slide is retracted. No pin engagement, no parking brake release. Know which relay you need to pull to allow you to move the coach. I have never had to do that, but I know which relay to pull.
Pin engagement is improved with the coach being level. Marathon Florida lubed the pins and the holes, and that improved operation. If pins do not engage, press “slide in” button again…this usually prompts the pins to engage.
Obviously, be sure that the slide does not make contact with any object in the coach, whether moving the slide in or out. For example, I have a display case on the wall adjacent to the slide. Melissa failed to close the cabinet door, and the slide caught it on its way out. We had Lexan confetti in the coach, the slide mechanism, etc. Fortunately, only the door was damaged.
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I agree with what Dan said, my starting running a little hotter this summer and I found the belt was loose. It still showed about 20 degrees hotter than normal on the gauge so I used my inferred temperature gun and shot the temperatures of both hoses and the thermostat housing and they all read 170 degrees, so you might check your gauge and make sure it is reading correctly, I purchased a temp sender from Power Tech, which installs in the top thermostat housing, which I haven’t installed as of yet.
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I think Tim offered some very good advice, and to be certain you are protected I would urge ASAP to drain the system and add the correct coolant in the proper ratio with water.
Before doing that I would go over the entire coach cooling system to replace any hoses or clamps that might be suspect to prevent this from happening again.