Forum Replies Created

  • Rob&Sue

    Member
    July 31, 2018 at 8:51 am in reply to: ‘17 F350 platinum power stroke crew cab 4×4

    Check with Roadmaster.

    I have a 2015 F150 4X4 they put a system on my truck that is not even on the market yet or wasn’t when they put it on.

    And I don’t know if the brake set up is like the SuperDuty or not.

    It is an air operated cylinder that mounts under the hood and a cable runs through the firewall an attaches to the brake pedal.

    Nothing inside the truck or hook up, just put the truck in tow mode and if you have the adjustable pedals, pull them all the way up and hook up the air line to the bus and go.

    Nice clean neat installation.

  • Rob&Sue

    Member
    July 30, 2018 at 9:51 am in reply to: Oil Level

    Almost at the very bottom of the plastic lens. There is a ring around it which is hard to see marked oil level.

  • Rob&Sue

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 8:07 pm in reply to: Battery light on

    Mine could have been a battery balance light if I remember right.

  • Rob&Sue

    Member
    July 21, 2018 at 4:48 pm in reply to: Thermostats

    I never thought of that, it could be the Wabasto trying to maintain temp of the coolant. I will take your advice and leave well enough alone. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

    Thanks Jon

  • Rob&Sue

    Member
    July 21, 2018 at 8:17 am in reply to: WARNING! FAN CLUTCH REPLACEMENT PROBLEM

    That “pin” that holds my roller bearing is a 5/8″ (maybe larger) bolt. If it was tight after the clutch and belt were reinstalled I cannot understand how it is remotely possible it could get bent.

    I don’t know if you observed the clutch replacement but the fact the idler pulley has a bent pin suggests to me you are dealing with the same issue that caused my coach to eat a belt. First, understand a direct replacement clutch exactly like the original allows the belt to be removed just by releasing the pressure on the bellows. But when the new clutch was installed on my coach the belt could not be replaced because it would not go over the pulleys as it did with the original clutch. The solution was to remove the idler pulley, then install the belt and then replace the idler pulley. I was there when this was happening and it should have sent me a strong signal something was wrong. My brain did not process the problem however.

    When my belt failed I had replaced my air bag belt tensioners with my jack screw arrangment but since my concentration was on designing, making and installing my tensioners I failed to notice the belt driving the new fan clutch was hitting the bracket. When I noticed fuzzy edges on the fan clutch drive belt I started to did into it. That is when I realized all that was transpiring.

    A longer belt than the original solved the problem completely for me and now I do not have to remove any idler pulley to change a belt. All I have to do is loosen the belt tension. I am pretty sure your pulley was removed and was not reinstalled tightly. If Prevost did the clutch replacement it is probable the techs knew of the issue with belt contact with the bracket and automatically ground the bracket area where the belt passes so you do not have that problem. But unless you have a longer belt you cannot remove or install the belt just by releasing the air to the air bags, something you can easily verify.