Robert
Forum Replies Created
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Your particular year fall in a computer gap.. For my 89(previous coach) I had to use a differant # than that of the actual coach Unit number. If I can locate it I will post it or find a old guy at prevost parts and they can give you a possible list of close unit numbers to try. Like try using a K instead of your J that would be one year newer. wasn’t much changing going on back then..
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I have been chasing leaks for over a year and still have not got them all. Jon told me when I started it was a “fools errand” but I thought I could have a leak free bus. I have finally decided it is easier (and a lot less stress) to walk on a slanted floor when I first get up in morning. It just reminds me I am out having fun. Welcome, I hope you enjoy the bus experience. It is great!!
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I am siding with Red. I don’t care how much HP a coach has there is always going to be a truck you have to pass going up a hill. I can go up a hill at the posted speed limit and despite having the ability to do that once someone jumps into my lane and I lose speed and momentum, it takes time to recover the speed, if I can.
In my car I have the ability to climb any hill faster than almost anyone, but despite my car’s outstanding ability to accellerate I am not passing or going up the hill any faster than the car or truck blocking the lane of traffic.
What we all are seeing is as our coaches have evolved we as buyers keep wanting more. We want them longer so we went from 35 to 40 and now to 45. We want them with more bay space so we have the H as an alternative to the X. We wanted more room inside so we got one slide, then two, and now 4. Carpeting wasn’t good enough so we got marble and granite floors, everything I described above adding weight. To keep up with the obesity of our coaches our engines kept getting increased HP and torque. It would be interesting to learn if our present day coaches are better at hill climbing or going 0 to 60 than prior generations of coaches.
Regardless my bus will attain any posted speed limit in the country and on occasion I have hills that have kept my speed down as low as 35 MPH. But out of the thousands and thousands of miles driven the number of miles I have driven at unacceptable speeds is probably less than 100 miles. Most of the hills I have encountered that really tax the ability of my coach limit me to 50 to 55 MPH which is the top of 4th gear, and while I prefer to go faster in the scheme of things I still want to stop better and not go faster. But nobody ever worries about that.
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If you have the standard lovel low, it’s off when the key is off. You are correct, with the key off, the suspension is locked and the aux air can go to zero and should have no effect on your bags.
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It was serviced and inspected prior to purchase. All major systems were checked out and repaired at Houston Prevost before heading back to Oklahoma.
Once I level the coach how do I turn off the leveling system? I turn off the coach and that is it. It has the regular Level Low system. No converter auto level or anything like that. The gauges go to 0 on the dash after a period but the bags should stay full with key off as I understand it.
Hoping it might be a simple fix before I take it in for a check up.
Thanks for helping out and I look forward to contributing in the future.
Regards,
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We have a Jennair house model in our Liberty and it cycles on and off as needed.
I think Bill is right and all house models cycle.
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No household fridge should be running 24/7. Maybe I don’t understand the question but your fridge “should” be cycling the compressor on and off on a regular basis.
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I assume your inner door panel is easy to remove. Once you have it off the entire mechanism can be seen and if something is binding it can be lubricated or adjusted.
But if it is cold and snowing that might not be the thing to do now.
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Robert, thanks very much for the offer. That is overly generous. I won’t be heading East in the near future but never say never. We do know that it is not the engine, manifolds, turbos, injectors or anything else related to the physical engine. We had the engine replaced with a rebuild a number of years ago rather than do a rebuild and the same lack of performance exists. The engine runs great at idle (but it sounds different), it runs great at 75 on the flat lands, it’s just when we need the torque (hill climbing, getting started from a stop, etc) that we have any issues.
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“And Robert…….get your foot off the
accelerator. Your cruise control makes more HP than your foot, and using
your foot to try to squeeze more speed on a hill actually drops your
available HP.”Jon, he’s probably talking about a mechancial 6V92 and your thinking of the 430/470 HP on the electronic engines like the Series
60 12.7s where it was 470 HP on cruise and 430 HP when the cruise was not
set. Some of the 430/470s could be changed to a constant 470 in the
ratings settings with a DDR or DDL software. It seems that a lot of the
14 liters I’ve looked at don’t have split ratings or they are set to the constant 515 HP rating. You can use your DDR and
look at your ratings, it should be something like “Rating 0 515”, “Rating
1 455” and if it has split ratings, higher HP for cruise set and lower
HP for cruise off it most likely will be “Rating 3 515/455”.Ken
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I do wish I had a geographic area! That would make getting work done a whole lot easier. Most of the problems I have had with service I have had at the various Prevost facilities. I travel full time and I used to travel Coast to Coast (sometimes 2 times in a year) but now only travel the Western US. Last year we started in NM, worked our way up into CO, came back to the Gulf in TX, headed back to CO and then worked our way up to UT and then into OR and WA by the end of the year. We just came in N. CA last week, head for Reno and then back to CA and will travel the length of the State before heading into AZ. From there I have no idea where my business will take me. We have nearly come to the conclusion that the Prevost service centers are our worst choice if we want the work done right the first time. This never used to be the case but now their Red Carpet service is a complete joke and no one if following up on anything. If I did not hang around and verify the right work is done, it’s not done or done wrong. The last service was in Dallas and as I pulled up to the gate to leave, applying the brakes that they just adjusted pulled so hard to the left the vehicle was undriveable. Had to unhook, pull it back in the shop and have that fixed (still pulls, however) before we could leave. Who road tested that?
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I have a ’88 XL and if we can trade straight up for somewhere around $100,000 I’m in!
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You may be right Tom but I just cant remember how old I am. Are we getting away from the original thread? I just cant remember what the hell it was.
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Another day .. another getting nowhere ..
I can’t get a decent grip on the back connector as there is part of the “cover” in the way. So I think the only way I’m going to get this is to pull this part of the dash out.
This dash looks like there is individual gauges which are in their own little section. There appears to be 1 screw at the top and 1 or 2 screws at the bottom .. I think I need some kind of small ratchet screw driver to get those two at the bottom, but I’m not sure thats a good idea as the screw itself might drop and fall away .. reaching this from the underside looks impossible as theres some kind of ductwork behind the pedals which is in the way ..
Thoughts? is there any easier way to pull this gauge out?
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Gil
Can you use the same cable that was attached to the old one, or do you have to run a new one through the roof?