Robert
Forum Replies Created
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Tom, I thought we deleted that guy from membership. He has been a problem in the past and I see he still is.
We need to beef up security.
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I wish I could find a 98 CC XL bra. The original to my coach seems to have disappeared when we took possession. If any one knows where I could find a bra for my coach I’d appriciate it.
PS
it does have the attachment snaps on the front. -
Robert: If I was in your position (having limited experience with only Class C motorhomes and looking to buy a brand new Prevost conversion) I would likely try to rent or lease a one or two year old Prevost for a number of trips, under various conditions, and hopefully in different weather conditions. I think that’s the only way to know enough about how you will use a Prevost conversion and consequently how you want yours configured. Its likely that one or more of the converters have very late model trades that you could work out arrangement with. As Mr. Mark will likely confirm, there are lots of decision to make beyond colors, textures, and and surfaces.
As Jon said … keep the questions coming. We will work hard to move you throught the grades as quickly as possible because our end goal is something very simple: Help you spend your money. We can’t do that if we let you down and leaving you sitting in the sixth or seventh grade.
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Bryan,
While I can’t say that there was not a 380 out the that had some problems I really would take issue with what you say as to the 380 as a lot being trouble prone and basically junk. If you read here the troubles that have developed with some Prevost based coaches, you could probably come up with the same take on them. I bought a new M-380 in 2004 and used it until last February when I bought a Country Coach XLV. I didn’t have any problems with it outside of what you would normally expect with use of any motorcoach Prevost conversions included. I consider the M-380 to have been a very fine piece of equipment. What I read in your evaluation of the M-380 is very much the same as I hear in an every now and then evaluation of Jaguar automobiles. When the question is asked, “Did you ever own one?”, the answer is always, “No”. When asked, “Did you ever drive one?”, the answer is always “No”. When asked, “Did you ever ride in one?”, the answer is usually, “No”.
I’m asking you. Since you’ve never owned one, have you ever driven one? Did you ever ride in one? Have you ever even been in one?
I think that it’s just as unfair to make such statements about M-380 Blue Birds as a group based on one or two experiences that no one knows the circumstances of which that may have brought the aleged problems on as to condemn the Detroit Series 60 as junk because we all read the saga of one that went bad here in this forum.
Just for the record, I think that the M-380 is a fine coach with no more inherent problems than a Liberty converted Prevost with a full load of Rose Petals and I think your assessment of it is just so much BS.
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I do not mean to highjack this thread but I read the heading and thought maybe it was about a valve on the level low solenoid bank.
I have a Norgren solenoid coil bad on my front control solenoid valve and have not been able to find a part number on the coil. Also have done several searches on here and no help.
I did find a part number 641929 for the coil in 24VDC on Mango Mikes site, mine is labeled 12VDC but no part number.
Does anyone know the part number for this Norgren coil in12VDC ?
If I have no luck I will call Prevost this week, but I know it is better to have a part number first.
Thanks,
I have not been on here in over a year due to some medical issues, but hopefully that is behind me, and I am back on the bus.
Robert
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I have seen the mirrors black on some XL!! entertainers with lots of stainless on the sides of the bus and I did not like them as well.
Davy
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John if you change the inverters to Magnums you can get a auto start from them , I think Mike has new Magnum inverters , but that is one way to do it, the auto start might work with other inverters also , Andre did his bus there is a article about it in the article section
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I might just keep it at the house in the building it is currently in.
It’s 50ft from my back door allowing easy daily monitoring. Keeps me plugged into a trusted power source and I will know immediately if there is a power issue and I can take care of it.
Reading some of the other posts about keeping the bay heaters on low, adding a low wattage electric portable heater to the water bay and a larger electric one inside the bus, complimented by a rotation of using one of four of the toe kick heaters. It would also allow me to exercise the bus every couple of weeks too.
Low temps for our winters are typically high teens to low 20’s. We did have a bad cold snap last year where the temps would drop below zero for a few days.
Is this doable? Anyone else ever do this?
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The way our coaches are built requires a means of adjusting belt tension and the method chosen was miniature air bags. The engine “floats” on its mounts so the serpentine belt with a tensioner makes sense because that belt drives pulleys that move with the engine. But if we didn’t have the adjustable tension provided by the air bags the fixed gear box for the fan drive or the fixed positioning of the AC compressor would suffer from varying tension as the motor rocks compared to the frame mounted fan and AC.
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Tom…
Where is the picture of Jon in sheep’s gear… that will crack everyone up !!
Diane
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If my memory serves me correctly when we bought our Vantare he was the to go to man and since they closed I heard and only “heard” that he is a consultant now for various RVs and that you pay an annual fee and can call for support 24/7.
We had a couple of dealings with him 4 years ago and he was knowledgable and nice. I do believe he could perform a reliable inspection.
Also Ben Cummings and Rick May at Coachworx are probably the best !!
Cheers,
Diane -
This is Nancy – I would never want slides, I love my non slide Marathon.
See, you weenies are all wrong and that slide rumer started with Mr. Anal and then Jeff Row Row your boat threw gas on it. It’s all a fabrication, would I lie?
Hey Buddy, come on up, this is a tough duty, but someone has to do it.
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In commercial service, use of cruise control is encouraged because it is generally more fuel efficient, safer (prevents accidental speeding), and provides a better ride experience for the passengers. I’ve been told the extra HP is a “reward” to the driver to encourage use of cruise control.
The DDEC ecu allows your engine to use its full horsepower only when cruise is engaged. Without the cruise on, you can’t get the max HP from your engine, you get about 15 HP less. It’s the same process used by DDEC to de-rate or de-power your engine in certain “check engine” situations such as overheat.
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RE: For those unaware the cruise will give a little more HP for hill climbing than your foot on the pedal
Jon,
That’s interesting, can you explain how the cruise control can give more HP than your foot on the pedal as you described when climbing hills, please?
Thanks, Diane
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I understand the leak is the rust area below the top welded seam.
One of the amazing products we sold at NAPA was JB Weld, a two part epoxy sealant. If the area could be cleaned of rust and etched JB might be the ticket.
Cleaning that small area with a Dramel drill and using one of the many bits could work in that small area. The most important thing is preparing the surface for bonding, it must be clean. There are also Permatex products that etch rust areas prior to painting or bonding.
Once JB Weld is cured it’s the closes thing to a metal weld as you can get.
I carry JB Weld in my spare parts bus kit.
