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This is the first post about a water leak in that area that I can remember.

Have you talked to Leon at Marathon ?

Welcome to PC….. many Marathon owners here,

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Hey Sid..seems like everytime you are in MN, I am elsewhere. I am in Jacksonville now, and leaving for home tomorrow.

Just hang out here on PC, it is tons better than POG, especially with Jamie the censor in charge. Better info here too!

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Bryan,

For those of us with few aux air demands while parked we often have a run of the mill small compressor like you’d find at your local big box store. Similiar can be found online that are a bit quieter. If yon can find the Cadillac, it’s okay to use a Chevy for this application. Some even have DC powered compressors. Personally I’d stay with an AC powered one.

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Additionally, while not a coach like yours, mine has a pressure regulator dedicated to the floor slide. Yours may have the same and you just have not found it yet.

JIM

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Whatever you do … be sure to replace them all or you will be wasting your money and possibly ending the life of an inverter… I suspected your batteries in the beginning from what you said.. you will be a happy camper when you see the difference… we just replaced ours about a month ago… and got them from Tom his price and service was unbeatable… delivered in two days and the best price we could find… I have also heard from others too who have said how great Lifeline is to stand behind their products… Tom even has a few beyond the call of duty stories about them… they must really respect him.

Best wishes,

Diane

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Liam,

Back in the day, we had a choice between number 1 and number 2 diesel. Up north in the cold country, we tried to use number 1 in the winter. Also, number 1 was nothing more than home heating oil and had a different blend than number 2.

Like Jon said, now you get what you get…

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Wave,

I cannot answer your question because for an aux compressor to be able to keep the coach air bags inflated it depends on the pressure settings on the compressor and the pressure required to keep the air bags filled so the coach will not lean.

If you depend on an aux compressor and an automatic leveling feature to keep a coach with a leaky suspension level you are going to wear out a lot of compressors and worse, you will start introducing moisture into the aux system unless you are very careful about maintaining the aux system spitters or water traps.

Most coaches do not display aux pressure on the dash. Some owners have added a gauge, and I have added pressure gauges on my last two coaches to read aux air, but the gauges were in the steer compartment bay. My XLII does have a dash display of aux pressure but the key needs to be on for me to get an accurate reading. The one in the steer compartment I can read any time.

Don’t use a band aid fix, but instead get the suspension air tight.

Having said that you can spend serious money doing that if you drive a bus into a service center and tell the guys to find all the leaks and fix them. Most shops will spend hours looking for leaks (on your dime) and then hours more replacing valves, fittings and air bags. Or you can learn how to diagnose the specific location of the leaks and limit your efforts or theirs to dealing with the leaks in a given section of the coach. Too complex to fully explain in a post but with an understanding of your suspension pneumatics you can limit places to look for leaks.

After spending hours making coaches leak free (that’s a lie and really never happens) I am convinced the easiest and cheapest way to prevent the leans is to consider any air bag or Norgren valve as having served its purpose when it is 10 years old and replacing them. No chasing of leaks. I spend my time being very careful with the assembly and making sure the fittings are compression fittings, and the threaded portions have good thread dope (my preference) or teflon tape. I do my own work so my costs are time and parts. If you choose to renew the suspension to eliminate the leans by taking the coach to a shop, get quotes. There are alternatives to Prevost that are reasonable and quality conscious. Just make sure they know Prevost coaches. Most RV places haven’t a clue.

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I have driven three versions of Prevost headlights. The original had the quad sealed beam rectangular headlights which were excellent. Shortly after we bought that coach Prevost introduced the Ford style big plastic rectangular headlights which a whole bunch of owners rushed to own by modifying their quad headlight coaches (along with changing the tail light stack). Almost universally those who had their coaches modified realized the change was a step backwards. But that style was carried into the early 2000s when the current style of small but intense lights was put on the coaches.

So I went from great headlights, to relatively lousy headlights (which are the style you likely have), to the current good headlights. But keep in mind I also changed from relatively good younger eyeballs to less good older eyeballs so I think as we age we either need to keep getting better and better headlights, or drive less at night. I’m driving less at night.

Several shops will replace your rectangular headlights with the current style which does a decent job. But I can tell you that while the replacement will be a noticeable improvement, it will do nothing to change the fact that seeing and driving at night will continue to be a problem.

We have gotten feedback that one of the shops that installs the new style headlights has some issues with the quality of their work so I am not suggesting any in particular. I do know they are available on ebay if you wish to make the conversion yourself.

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Did it fix the problem? Having issue with mine. it will crank and no startie. Had a heat issue before and think we got this fixed. Just has Kubota pump on engine. Started like a top and ran 20 hours over weekend ( 185 hours total on gen set) and shut down, got home and tried to start, just cranked over. Will install low pressure fuel pump in line and try this week. Has new fuel and air filter.

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Alvie,

Without looking I am not sure of my front axle weight. I have a 2005 chassis and I am about 500 pounds below the limit. I do know the chart calls for 100 PSI and I am at 105.

Mine also make a fairly loud “slap” or noise when going across expansion joints, but I attributed that to the size of the tire and the “ringing” sound not unlike what you might expect if you bang on the inflated tire with a metal bar such as the truckers use to check inflation.

My seat of the pants ability to judge comparitive rides between tire sizes and pressures is sadly lacking and made more difficult trying to sort out differences associated with the respective noise levels when crossing expansion joints. I am not sure I could accurately separate all the factors that contribute to a driving comfort level because I am sure noise somehow makes us think of harshness. I think (but cannot verify) my 365s make a louder noise on bumps than the 315 which on both of their respective coaches were inflated to the same pressure due to the axle weights on each coach.

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Tom, really. I thought exterior glass had to be removed in any coach to replace a residential refrigerator. An H’s door and entry well must be huge!

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Georges,

I’m using Chrome on a PC and I have had no problem creating a new thread. We have some folks using some type of phone or ipad that can create threads but are unable to post in a thread which is why you see some posts with just the title, but no text in the body.

Can you try a different browser? If you want email Tom or I with the details and we will alert our web guru.

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Tom is right.

If your converter did not add an aux compressor it is probable you have nothing in the house portion of the coach that uses air. The only problem with the lack of a compressor is (as you already know) you can forget about leveling the coach on sloped campsites. As soon as the air is gone the coach is leaning.

The good news is that the leaks are not likely to be in big numbers because you only have the Prevost chassis aux system to worry about. Also good news is you have a coach not likely to have push in fittings so the places to look are small in number. My guess is if you do a little checking in the common places such as the driver’s seat or air regulator (if you have OTR) you will probably find the biggest leaks.

Then when you do add a compressor so the coach will stay level you will rearely hear it run.

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Glen s …

who fixed your foggy window and what did it cost you? Thanks Diane

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I’m really confused Glens, are you saying you have no aux air compressor and the only aux air you get is from the engine driven pump?