[Mike]

For what it’s worth! Got my brake system back to working after a major ordeal cleaning out every air line, replacing the AD2 to a AD9 dryer and a leaking norgren. Was the happiest day of my life to see the old gal start to raise up on her own. Almost like seeing the dead rise again! After the brake test I noticed that it was taking the compressor 3 minutes or more to air the system back to 120 psi. I thought there is no way I will be able to drive her, my air system will not have enough air built back up fast enough to operate everything. Checked into replacing or rebuilding my direct drive compressor on the 8V92 and was really offended. Well if I have to replace it, may as well try a little air tool oil down the compressor intake and exhaust ports. After a tablespoon in each port and letting the oil circulate it now builds the pressure back within 60 to 90 seconds. Not saying it was the right thing to do or recomended by the manufacturer but for now I’ll take it until signs point to replacing it. May change my mind if it makes a turn for the worst. Working on a backup in the cargo bay just in case.

[Mike]

Problem solved. When I replaced the relay on the Allen Bradley computer,
I bent one of the micro-pins on the relay thus making the contactor
inoperative.

The relays have 5 mini-pins and if they are not perfectly straight when plugging them into the tiny holes, they get bent.

I didn’t mention this earlier but I used a pencil to hold the
contactor shut. On the left side of the contactor is a plastic assembly
that moves in sync with the contactor. I pressed the black button in the
center of the contactor and then wedged a pencil between the plastic
piece and the housing. The black button is pulled in when the contactor
is engaged. If anyone ever has to do this, you must remove the pencil
(or whatever you use) before starting the generator. Failing to do so
could cause power to back feed into the 50 amp plug. Not good.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and ideas.

Ron

[Mike]

Glad you got hooked up Gary.. Maybe you could take a video with your phone or camera, that way they see it in action. What you have going on is of interest to many with slides and for the most part, we don’t hear much about slide problems, so it will be interesting for everyone to learn what they determine is the cause.

[Mike]

Just when you think you’re done and ready to hit the road, the Norgren gremlins bite ya in the butt! UPS red label, oh the joy…… They didn’t leak last week, but now leaking most likely due to the cold. Two mornings in a row with outside temps in the 20’s, down to 32 in the bus barn and here comes the bubbles!

[Mike]

“I sure will what year are you looking for , a 40 footer or 45 footer”

45. 97 to 99. IFS.

[Mike]

Thanks Jon

[Mike]

Mike, one advantage of going to rallies, whether they are rallies that are predominantly homebuilders or predominantly store bought the opportunity to get ideas is amazing. And don’t worry about needing information either. I guarantee at a rally you will be able to get answers, and they will be correct.

Sometimes on this forum you can even get a correct answer.

[Mike]

Thanks Tom, the new filter is still clean but only a few short run times. and the old filter was not black

[Mike]

Tom,

If you have’nt purchased a DI unit yet, you might contact On the Go
and see if you can dump the resin in your water softner and replace it
with their DI refill kit of $80. I believe the spun fiberglass housing
is the same between the units.

[Mike]

If you are going to pump thru the racor why not run it back in to the tank and do that for several cycles depending on the volume in the tank and the flow rate of the pump. add a few more filters and change them as needed.

[Mike]

I’ll get you a picture Rick. Mine are wired direct to the inverters, one behind the entertainment center and the other behind the bay fridge.

[Mike]

Ever get a case of the blanks—- forgets?? In the symbol for the front junction box there is a number. That number is the stud/post the connection-feed is on. I need a jog once in awhile. All is good in busland. Bunch of bulbs need replacing only about 1/3rd came on=just might all end up LED next year. Still going to order the schematic for the compartment door. Thanks for helping me reboot. Bob

[Mike]

Wow! That is really cool! I like the altimiter feature. I guess in tunnels you just drive by the seat of your pants?

[Mike]

Well, we decided against the 13,000 mile coach. Seems like it was going to take longer than I expected just to fix the oil leak and run down a leak in the air system. Additionally, Just could not get by the length of time it was not used although no one actually had hard figures on that. While looking it over, found carpenter ants in the wet bay so that did not help the go for it side.

We are now focusing on the other possibility which is a 96 country coach. The only thing negative that I have heard about that year and converter, is that there is a large bank of relays, fuses and circuit boards in a panel in the front bay that seem to be a concern to some. Has anyone had or know of someone who has had issues in this area?

Seems as though every converter had something that was proprietory in nature or near that. At some point, I guess I got to bite the bullet and just go for it but I wanted to through out there the question of what folks thought about the Country Coach. Oh yeah, it also has a gas stove and fridge.I thought that was a bit unusual for a Prevost. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Thanks for letting me ramble. It’s a big investment and don’t want to pass up good advise before making a deal and don’t want to make the deal without getting good advise.

Regards,

Moe

[Mike]

I tried to take a picture Joel, but it’s too fuzzy. Like Paul said, there is a small drift pin under the knob you just push out and the knob comes off.