Larry
Forum Replies Created
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Jon said:
Coaches without OTR, often use the 50DN as a means of charging house batteries when A/C units are run through inverters. At 12 volts the typical A/C will draw about 130 amps, and at 24 volts it will draw 65 amps. That justifies the 50DN.
This is exactly what I had in mind with my original post. I may have confused things when I said I wanted the 50DN to “feed the inverters.” With one or more mini-splits, I think the 50DN has enough output to keep the coach cool on all but the hottest days. I’d like to learn more about any coaches that are running AC units through inverters.
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Just an update on the planning for this project. I’m going to start with a ductless mini-split that I have sitting in my shop. It’s only a 120v 12,000 BTU heat pump, but I found a way to integrate it into my interior by putting it above the pull-out sofa. I have to block the upper portion of a window to mount it, but I’m going to do the same thing on the opposite side in order to mount a TV. I think it’ll balance out okay as a design. My bedroom Cruisair still works great, and I’ve decided the other Cruisairs will not be going back in.
I’m going to do this in increments with the goal of switching to LiFePO4 batteries and good inverter/chargers, but I can take the first few steps without committing to later investments. The lingering question is what to do eventually with my 50DN alternator. Since I removed the OTR heat and air, the demands on the 50DN are just battery charging and very minimal chassis loads. If I switch to LiFePO4 for the house, I’m not clear on whether the 50DN can continue to charge both the house lithium and the remaining lead acid chassis batteries. I guess the voltage requirements are different. Having a 50DN just to top off my engine start batteries seems like overkill. Not a problem to solve now, but it’s bugging me as I try to picture my eventual changes.
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You should have a Vanner Monitor near your engine or chassis batteries. It sends a signal to light a light on the dash to alert of an issue. If it fails, despite voltages in range it can send a signal to light a warning light.
Next time you get a warning light, check the voltages on the input side of the monitor. Hi voltage will be over 30, Lo under 24, and Balance will be the 12 volt readings greater than 1/2 volt different than 1/2 of the 24 volt value. In other words if the 24 volt side reads 26 volts, the 12 volt side should read 13 volts, plus or minus 1/2 volt.
I think the model is Vanner Model 70 and complete information is on the Vanner web site.
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Tad,
Unless I missed something here you never say what your charge rate is when the bus is running.So before you start pulling batteries I would check the dash gauge and go to the back and check with a voltmeter what your getting. Sorry you did say 11.4 while driving. Something amiss in the charging values.
You need at least 13 to 13.5 to know your charging system is working properly.
Like A1 I’m a 5 year guy.
Later
bv
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All the “volume” converters did a good job in the early 2000s. Featherlite, Marathon, and Liberty are still in business. Country Coach and Royale are not. I’ve had 2 Featherlites, understand their engineering, and get good support.
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A transfer switch is just a transfers switch, it takes power from shore or gen,Transfers to the bus, When the inverters receive the AC volts via shore or gen they charge the batteries and when there is no AC volts it makes 120v. Any honest RV tech should know that. If it is a 25 year old bus or a 2 year old bus the transfer switch does the same thing, There might have more bells and whistles like low and high volt cut offs surge protectors. That’s sad when a shop doesn’t know or just trying take advantage of someone. Good job Chris for not letting them do that to you.
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They say timing is everything.
A BIG THANKS TOM!
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It’s reported that the Lime Rock interloper is a “Prevost Marathon” and NOT a Liberty Coach.
So ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls … I’ll leave it at that.
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3390 is a good number. When I change any fuel filter I fill it with fuel, but if it is mounted sideways I will power the electric fuel pump with jumpers and listen as the clicks increase frequency to indicate the system is pressurized and has fuel in it.
In your case the fuel filters are sitting in a position so all needed is to fill them before installation and the engine should start with no priming.
The belt referred to is accessible through the panel to the right hand sidewall in the electric bay. There is also the engine belt under the sheet metal shield.
My two hour gauges do not agree either, but are closer than yours. For my purposes I just use the one in the electric bay.
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Larry,
Another to check that has not been mentioned. The slide in / slide out control panel (the manual one if you have it) should have an LED on that panel. If not, you can look at the slide controllers and get the same information.
If you have a failure in the slide function, that LED on the panel (or the LED’s on the slide controller) will “flash a code”. You’ll have a long period with no flashing, then it will flash two codes. For example:
Long silence, 2 flashes, short silence, 3 flashes would be a code of “23”. I had in the past the flash codes and will try to find them and post. This is what Prevost will look for as their first line of diagnosis.
Again, going off my memory (which is failing every day!) if the slide operates in the in direction and the pins fail to fire at the end of the cycle, then the slide is considered to be “out of position”. That’s either too far in, or too far out. Either condition you should be able to see visually by inspecting the slide relative to the outer skin of the coach. This is where the “jog controller” comes into play. You use that controller to get the slide in the proper position to manually deploy the pins.
This out of position condition can be caused by several factors, ranging from easy to resolve to “needs Provost to fix”. The easiest and most common issue it the proximity sensor that counts the revolutions of the slide gearbox shaft is either dirty (easy fix) or has failed (more complex fix). The proximity sensor counts teeth on the shaft of the slide gearbox transmission. You can find it just to the front of the coach, about a foot forward of the main slide motor.
Some converters make it easy to find, while others make it hard. I’ve never looked for the prox on a Marathon, so I can’t help in that regard. Over time, that prox collects grease and oil and metal filings and other filth that accumulates over time. A simple cleaning with a cloth and some solvent will do the trick. Once clean, you may need to manually cycle the pins again so the system starts from a known state.
I’ll look for the blink codes and post if I find them…….
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Larry, there is a new Prevost backed service center in Coachella called Luxtor. Still a long way from you, but I thought I’d throw that out. Bernie might know more about them, I stopped in and looked over the place, they seem to be very knowledgeable.
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I don’t know about SEA just Hayward, CA which is supposed to be very good. I’ll check with Kevin though.
Later
bv
Got a call back, I guess there was a SEA in the works Larry and Covid killed that.
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I want green sunshine with images of Benjamin Franklin.
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Marshall, thanks for the heads up. I sweat bullets every time I have to move my slide pins.
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Joe at Marathon Coach in San Antonio, FL may know of an extended place you can stay.