glen
Forum Replies Created
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Should the burner start as soon as the domestic hot water cools down a few degrees or does it start when the glycol cools down to the setting where it calls for the burner to start?
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This info is for buses like mine and Rocky’s. We have 2 alternators that charge/power 2 separate electrical systems.
My previous coaches had a battery isolator located inline/between the alternator and both the house and chassis batteries. There was a 1/2 volt drop/difference from the input and output of the isolator.
My current bus does NOT have a battery isolator between the house alternator and the house batteries. But maybe it should? And here’s why. My house batteries on a hot summer day in TX after 8 house of driving are getting 13.9 volts and roughly 0 amps from the house alternator. 13.9 volts IMO is too high under these conditions.
Now, if I did install a battery isolator like came stock on my previous coaches, it would knock the input voltage to my house batteries down from 13.9 volts to 13.4 volts, which IMO is better than 13.9 volts. It’s either that or an adjustable voltage regulator.
I’m unable to charge my batteries perfectly under all conditions. If I had a choice, I would prefer to under charge them, not over charge them.
Another benefit to installing a battery isolator is to power both battery banks with 1 alternator if an alternator failed. If either one of my alternators was to fail, I could charge/power both battery banks from the good remaining alternator until I could fix it from the second output of the isolator. The required cabling could be pre-installed unconnected nearby just in case.
http://texasindustrialelectric.com/battery_isolators.asp
One last thing. Did you know that you can charge/maintain ALL of your 12v chassis batteries buy charging just 1 of them with a 12 volt charger or alternator. You don’t have to have a 24v charging source. It’s not the ideal way to charge them, but it will work. We’ve all know 1 bad battery will bring them all down, the inverse is true too.
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Greg,
The 6-speed transmission can be set up to downshift to the lowest safe gear when the Jake brake is on. Ours is set to downshift to second gear–but you can choose any of the lower gears. When I turn the Jake on, it will downshift through fifth gear to fourth at 65 MPH, with pretty good braking. Without the Jake on, the downshift to fifth will happen at 55 MPH, so with the Jake on and the transmission programmed to downshift, downshifting happens much earlier, with resultant better braking. You can also manually downshift to second gear at 65 MPH, and the transmission will only downshift when it is safe to do so. From what Glens mentions, it sounds like the 5-speed can be set up the same way, but clarification of the issue would help. An Allison dealer can reprogram the transmission if desired.
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Hi guys and thank you all for your response,
This is a lot to take in… I didn’t know you had to downshift when using a Jake brake. I’ve read that some coaches drop a gear automatically and some have had the computer changed so it drops two gears instead of one. But that was a computer situation, I didn’t know that Jake brakes like mine, required a manual shift of the transmission! I don’t like taking my eyes off the road to select the right gear but I’m sure I’ll eventually know the shift pattern by touch but I’m not there yet.
If I have this right, here are how things work… (I will listen to make sure I hear the Jake sound)
• Take your foot off the brake in 5th gear (remember I have a 5 speed) and little happens.
• Take your foot off the brake and shift to 4th gear and the Jake is more helpful.
• Take your foot off the brake and shit to 3rd gear and the Jake is even more helpful etc.
On my way home I did shift to a lower gear going down hills, but I don’t remember if I left the Jake on at that point? Once I determined it wasn’t working (or not working as I expected) I may well have turned it off. I’ll take my bus out for a run next week to see what it does? I’ll report back to you!
I’m really surprised with all the reading I’ve done here and on the plastic coach forums that I’ve not read a Jake requires a manual downshift. I thought you put on the Jake and everything else is automatic once you take your foot off the peddle? I’ve downshifted my SUV two gears on a hill all the time. But I didn’t have a Jake and thinking it would slow me down on its own. I’m glad you guys help straighten me out!
I hope that my lack of HUMOR on this post didn’t keep you from understanding my intent!
Harry
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Victron Battery Monitor with iPhone App for a new gauge.
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Glens,
Yep , Might keep a Semi from hitting You right ? And if You break down partially in a traffic lane ? Or on a narrow shoulder where You cannot get completely off of the road ? Or in a blind curve ? Or just over a hill At night ? Working on the side of roads at night for years has taught Me that You cannot be too cautious with traffic. Safety is Key for Me !
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Harry, On my coach, which is the same as yours, there is a definite tug on high when you hit them. I can hear them also if the TV or sound system isn’t on. Only time I paddle down shifter is when I need to stop in a hurry. If you have a Detroit Dealer close would have them look at it. Use mine all the time and have saved the brakes a ton.
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http://www.balmar.net/multi-stage-regulators/
The MC-614
I put one of these on my 99 in July.
It has all you need and with a digital readout.
Also a programing paramater for LifeLine batteries.
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There is not much braking effect in 5th or 6th gear. But you should hear the jake when you open the driver window. Shift into 4th or 3rd gear and try the jake again.
The jake also won’t come on if the electronic gas pedal does not completely retract. Make sure it is not hung up on carpets. Usually restarting the engine will recalibrate the pedal.
Gerald
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Looks like everyone had fun! Michael, thanks for positing the pictures – nice to put a face with a name.
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Well then, my only guess is cold water line from coach is connected to heater’s hot water out.
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We had the fogged double pane replaced with single pane on all 4 cockpit sliding windows. Had it done at The Fog Doctor in Searcy, AR. Be aware that the rubber slider seal strips (inside and outside) are no longer available from PrevostPrevost. When you go from the double pane to a single pane, the window contact angle of the seal changes, and has a tendency to bind when you slide the window open or closed. The rubber has increased friction on the glass because of the increased angle of the seal with only the single pane. The increased friction tends to stress the seating channel for the seal until the rubber seal looses some of its memory, and may cause the seals to come out of their seat. We had the replacement done about a year and a half ago, and still occasionally find one of the seals working out of the seating channels, depending on how much I open the window. You do not want to loose those seal strips…which you could easily do if you’re inattentive.
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It Worked in Chrome for me this time.
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Not gonna let Harry in coach until bill is paid. Harry “Go fund me” is your friend..
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We are trying to sort out the issues with this entire situation. Those that have registered hang in there because we have let our web guy know all the problems and we still have registrations not making it to our admin listings so when we think we have everything resolved we will try to start all over again.
After a while this stops being fun.