Gerald
Forum Replies Created
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Updates…
Removed / cleaned sprayer, redrilled / cleared holes with 1/64 drill, ensured water flows through/ no blockage, reinstalled using 100 % Silicone, will wait couple Hours cure before testing. Should be good to go…
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Here’s the link to the thread about installing a resistor in the watchdog setup: LINK
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Do you have a way to measure the the diameter of the base of the shaft and the outside diameter of of the base/housing? Those measurements would be needed to locate universal boots that are not application specific.
Just a possibility.
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IF you run 110, 10% over would be 121, which may be enough. I would set it for 130. which is slightly less than 20%. The reason being is the “sun” side will get hotter, thus more pressure than the shade side while driving.
Your mileage may vary, chuckle.
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Bar Clamp with dimpled ends… my method exactly. Not perfect because many things tend get in the way, plumbing ,cabinetry ,etc. H-3.
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I sent this information to RVParky.com so they can add this location to their database. Hopefully, it has been listed on this site as well.
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Local Freightliner/DD shop did both of mine. There is no reason to wait and many reasons to do it at 60k. I had issues with the fuel being pushed back to the tank because the injector hold down had come loose and allowed the injector to move up in the head…just a bit, but enough to let compression into the fuel rail and send all the fuel back to the tank at shutdown. Every valve and injector were out of spec by quite a bit on that engine, and at least as much on my next coach by 60k miles. The injector hold downs were not loose on the second engine.
It is an old wives tale that you need to wait for mileage/performance to suffer. Mine sucked from day one, and got better after doing the tune up. The engines also ran smoother and quieter at idle after doing the work. Fuel mileage went up slightly, but not as much as I hoped it would.
The service writer tried to talk me out of doing them at 60k, but the engine mechanics said to do it. I will always trust the guy doing the work before some lower skilled guy just filling out a work order. I do not remember the mileage for the next tune up, but think it was somewhere in the additional 100k range. For what I paid, I would have done it again at the next interval specified. Cheap insurance.
They did not pull the engine in either case. In the XL2 I removed the floor panel in the bedroom which gave them enough room to get the valve cover off and in the H3 there was enough room we did nothing extra. The XL2 had a Jake setup and the rest have retarders FWIW.
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I will give the eBay listing a look.
Ron
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Obviously the choice is yours, but except for bragging rights rebuilding a $50 part like a relay valve or three port Norgren is hardly worth the effort
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Dashboard air, just like in a car.
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I had the same problem with Hughes net and their WiFi. Could not get service. Stopped and sent their equipment back. Between them the UPS STORE. AFTER I COMPLAINED TO THEM AND SIX MONTHS LATER THEY STATED THEY NEVER GOT THE EQUIPMENT BACK–IT COST ME OVER $6000 because I could find the receipt.
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The 2003 Marathon I am considering has a GE fridge
At the bottom of both doors there i s some sort of electronagnet controlled by a switch.
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Photos
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I had two idler pulley bearings go dry and intermittently lock up several years ago. The bearings would spin fine when tested by hand. I had a heck of a time figuring out what was happening. The serpentine belt would partially walk off the pulley and get cut at the pulley fence. The frayed belt would whip around and unscrew the oil filler…. In the end, the belts would only last a couple of hundred miles.
I replaced the old fixed tensioner arrangement with the newer automatic belt tensioner with new idler bearings. No problems since.
The bearings can be replaced if you are careful in pressing them out of the pulley. The cast pulley breaks easily. Ask me how I know.
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Sluggish up hills…? Have you visually checked your turbo piping silicon couplers for air leaks? Is your boost gauge dropping when climbing up hill? Friend who had 2008 had bad leaking turbo piping silicon coupler that resulted in engine light on periodically and loss of boost / power when going uphill.