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Where to go?
We’ll be overnighting at Cracker Barrel on 95 near Savannah. I have 2 issues and hopefully I’ll be able to drive to one location for repair.
Issue 1: The Check Engine light comes on intermittently, though for most of the last 5 hours. Coach drives fine though it seems a bit sluggish going up mild hills on cruise control.
Issue 2: Just spent 13 hours of labor plus parts to fix alternator problem which was never solved. PENN DD/Allison couldn’t figure out what was wrong and called PREVOST who advised to replace 2 parts. On this trip Battery2 or alternator light is still coming on though very intermittently compared to before.
So the question is who do I take it to….PREVOST or our friends at Florida DD/Allison in Orlando?
Thank you.
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14 Replies
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Jimmy,
First I would contact Prevost and have them walk you through your codes. The reason for that is they are a Detroit problem and it could be almost anything, including something better dealt with by Detroit, or Prevost. A check engine light can be a simple sensor ground issue with a code providing some direction on where it might be or it could be something Prevost might be best to deal with such as a failing charge air cooler or hose within the system.
The alternator may or may not have anything to do with the check engine light. I am not familiar with how Marathon has your alternators set up, but I suspect one is dedicated to the house and one the chassis and voltages that go out of range on the engine are going to create a check engine light, but you can read your voltages to determine if chassis (engine) voltage is going up and down. Typically if the chassis voltage is not right you will get a dash warning light however. I would go to Prevost for the alternator issue.
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I had the same issue as #1 a couple of years ago. WW Williams in Savannah, GA quickly diagnosed sticking EGR. Had to replace it. End of problem. Excellent service and reputation in Savannah. Used to use them for the boat too. Dave is/was the service manager. 912-231-5962 or 833-208-6544.
Easy to get to from the Cracker Barrel.
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Had same problem years ago. Very frustrating until replaced EGR.
BTW…you know about “Ugly Fix” ?
AL
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Sluggish up hills…? Have you visually checked your turbo piping silicon couplers for air leaks? Is your boost gauge dropping when climbing up hill? Friend who had 2008 had bad leaking turbo piping silicon coupler that resulted in engine light on periodically and loss of boost / power when going uphill.
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Thank you all for your comments. They all seem to have merit.
With respect to the Check engine light, all seems well now. I got a call from Bernie. I’m not sure what language he was speaking but after a bunch of questions and then dissertation on Series 60s, I was often lost but got the gist of his diagnosis and remedies.
After a lengthy explanation, Bernie’s first thought was to reset the coach or something. “How do I do that?” Turn off the key and restart the engine. Well it was night so I said I would start it in the morning.
His second thought was an air leak in what are now 4″ x 12″ red and blue hoses near the big fan. Bernie always carries a spare set. Again, a lengthy explanation I had a tough time following because I really don’t know much or am interested in engines. But I will also carry a spare set of hoses in the future.
His 3rd thought was the same as others mentioned with the EGR.
The winner was number 1. I drove the coach the following day and not once did the Check Engine light appear. The coach just had to be reset.
With respect to the alternator, the light did flash and then got steady the last 2 hours of Day 2. Day 3, no Alternator light until I parked.
As I was leveling the coach, with the engine off, I heard this TZZ, TZZ, TZZ coming from behind my dash at the same time the Alternator light came on. Again, not being a mechanic, it sure sounds like a loose wire to me. Looks like a spent a couple grand for nothing. I’ll get the short fixed.
Again, thank you all and Bernie for the chat.
Later.
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Is your boost good Jimmy, Charge Air Cooler is a common problem with your vintage. I only mention that because you said it was sluggish up hill.
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Forgot about Charge Air Cooler CAC….Truk, good catch
Easy to check its condition;
Your engine should be cold, usually first start from off engine overnight.
Open drivers side radiator access door.
Spray soapy water on the bottom fins of CAC. You can also use windshield spray. It’s located in front of engine radiator. Make sure you spray the area where the fins meet the tank.
Start your engine ….if you have bubbles anywhere your CAC it’s leaking. Your losing major engine power and poor fuel mileage.
Replacement needed.
On my XL and 07 H3-45 both leaked.
AL
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Come on BA, this thread is already confusing enough.
He’s got an H, the CAC is stacked. Different than the XL.
Don’t you have a picture of your H ?
Later
bv
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Sorry no picture of “H” and I believe the CAC is in same location as XL….forward of radiator.
I’am pretty sure on that as I had to fix my CAC in the “H” as you know who did the F…up.
Truk ….has a point with suggesting to check his CAC. It could of been replaced with the cheap one installed as happened to a friend of ours in your hood parking.
Could it be an original CAC ?
AL
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On my 06 H, the CAC is beside the radiator. When mine failed, I first noticed I was losing power on hills. It got progressively worse and started smoking. As mentioned above, easy to test with a spray bottle.
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Hey guys, read my post on 1/3 where I mentioned the CAC. Regardless of where it is located on Jimmy’s H part of the system is the hoses. Al, you do remember when Prevost was putting them in the wrong place which could contribute to their failure and the coach being lazy going up hills.
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Picture above shows the aluminum CAC with 7 year or 1M mile warranty.
That’s the one you should use if you replace.
Jon, I remember them being stacked as Mr. California wrote. Had stack set up on my 2000 Marathon H.
Don’t recall when Prevost made the side by side change.
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My 04 H was still stacked, I think they changed shortly after that, maybe with EGR.
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EGR was the change. The real boost with the EGR valve open is about 50 PSI although the gauge will not show more than 30. The increased pressure causes intake air discharge from the turbo to reach 500 degrees so the CAC needs a lot of air flow, and the hoses have to be capable of handling both 50 PSI, plus 500 degrees.
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