DON
Forum Replies Created
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A little late posting this about the 2 March 2022 tire blowout that MorPrevost90 had. But I have a hypothesis on the cause of the incident. If you enlarge and look closely at the first of the two pictures you see the valve stem has a fill through valve cap. Owner says he checked tire pressure that AM and was it good.
One possible (and a simple explanation for the situation – Occam’s razor and all that) is that during the morning pressure check, the cap/valve seat either got some foreign matter blown into it from the tire or the movable part of the cap stuck in and kept pressure on the valve core in the stem and caused loss of air> overheat > blow out.
I have equal in my tires (with filters in the stems) and am especially wary of leaks. I have Pressure Pro TPMS so the sensors make a positive seal, as the valve core is depressed and open by design during their installation and use. If I did not have that type of TPMS, I would definitely use metal valve caps with O rings or neoprene seals to ensure positive sealing.
I know there are bezillions of tires running down the road with valve cores as all that is holding in the air, but it gives me the heeebie jeeebies. This especially since a bad experience I had with a leaking valve extension on an inner dual that surfaced only when I added the TPMS. The valve extension was made in two swaged together parts and it leaked at the joint in the middle of the extension. It had not caused tire pressure loss before I added the TPMS because the extension only had pressure in it during filling or pressure checking of the tire. At all other times, the valve stem core was closed and the extension was not pressurized. With the TPMS sensor on, the core remains unseated, thus constantly pressurizing the valve extension = pressure loss. Fortunately the TPMS warned me of the slowly declining pressure and disaster was averted.
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I am not sure if this helps your thinking but Normally Open and Normally Closed are opposite when you think of Electricity and fluid. A close Circuit in the electrical world means Connected, while in the fluid/Air space a closed circuit means it is shut off closed/not connected.
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You need a square socket for those.
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You have to take the lug nuts off
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These are still available…and I’m cleaning out my garage so make me an offer. 770-480-8077
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Thank you Mark…this is a great site!
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It is a switch of some kind from the AC system. Out everything is coming. My Dash Air and Country Coach Frigicool are non op .
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My first and second coaches had a Racor plus the spin on primary and secondary filters always supplied on the coach.
I always replaced the spin on filters with what was called for on the Prevost site maintenance manual or trade equivalent, and I always used the 30 micron Racor pleated cartridge. Fortunately my Racors which were installed by Liberty were easily accessed and serviced.
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If you ever decide to change u-joints, I highly recommend a tool like the following. There are multiple brands, Tiger Tool is the original, but I could not wait for them to get them in stock, so I went with oemtools. Works very well.
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What coaches? New, Used? What manufacturer? Slides or not?
There is no answer available for the question you asked. If you are just trying to compare what a coach is selling for today compared to a year from now, they will likely already have been sold!
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Mike, yes.
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Jon, when you used Swagelok fittings, did you need inserts, or is the DOT nylon type hose strong enough on its own?
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Whew! Sometimes folk ask these questions and have never done it. Sounds like you have the tools and the skill. Hopefully that line is long enough to use with the new fitting, if not you can replace it or add a coupler inline to extend the length. Do you have a source for fittings and Hose? If not, i use these guys, all various styles and sizes, DOT compliant and ship fast.
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Hi Andrew, this is a complicated and touchy subject due to the high liability of a bus crushing you. I don’t flinch anymore when it comes to doing any work under the bus, I remove the wheels, as it makes life easier. You are going to need some heavy stands and a 20 ton air over hydraulic Jack to get the bus up in the air and supported these have been discussed all over this forum. The wheels are a different story. You will be able to remove them with a Torgue mulitplier, but putting them back on you will need a Torque wrench. I have had my bus wheels off many times and now it takes me about an hour and a half to put the bus up on stands and remove the wheel for the area i Am working on. Never go under the bus without support stands, and I recommend having someone assisting to make sure you don’t miss anything, preferably someone who has done this before. Once you get the bus up on stands and the wheels off you will have a much easier time to diagnose and work. Folks here recommend replacing the push to connect fittings with Compression fitting. To remove the push to connect you need to push the sleeve down and pull the hose out, might be easier said than done as the line gets stiff over the years.
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Greg: Glad to hear everything turned out well! Consider putting Baton Rouge Diesel on the User Maps as a Repair/Maintenance facility so when another member is in the neighborhood with a problem they can benefit from your experience.
Alls well that ends well!