[Art]

If you don’t mind, what’s the ballpark pricing on a barn like that but without the exterior driveway? I had a 40×60 quoted just under 100k for base building and concrete, thinking I want larger more like 60×60 or 60×90. Was thinking 250k would be enough then I could finish interior myself.

Although I’m still looking to just buy a warehouse that’ll fit the coach and other toys.

[Art]

I wish less that everyone stay and more that everyone return! We miss you!

[Art]

I spent all daylight hours Saturday and Sunday changing the 6 rear air bags and the 2 Norgren valves that isolate the front pair of air bags from the tag air bag, the drive leveling valves, and the level-low manifold. I did not change the valve that actually activates the tag, as it was a Norgren already, and I was not sure if replacing with a Burkert was a good idea. I also did not get to the two 3-ways on the bulkhead just ahead of the drive axles. Can’t be certain, but they looked fairly “new”.

The dates on the air bags ranged from 2015 to 1995! The front drive ones (next to the leveling valve) were from 8/95 and I assume are original. The middle ones has push-to-connect fittings, so I replaced those with compression (Swagelok). I first mounted all bags on the top, then aired up them w/ level-low slightly to get them to expand, then wiggle them a bit to settle in the mounting holes.

With the wheels off I was able to confirm the tag operation worked. Both wheels lifted as expected, and I was able to hold air in the 4 drive axle air bags.

I think I figured out why I did not have the same ride height on either side of the rear. The rod length was different between both leveling valves, but also the left/driver valve itself was mounted pointing a bit downward. The mounting holes have enough clearance that it’s really easy to not have the level pointing perfectly horizontal when mounted. The rods are now the same length for both, so hopefully I have proper and consistent height between them.

In spite of changing the level-low manifold, I still do have the actuation “up” of the left rear cut out sometimes. So, I guess it’s not a problem with the pnumatic part but perhaps an electrical connection. All relays where 24v.

I did not plan on doing the front air bags currently. hey do hold air fine. Once I am back from my trip, I’ll do those. about 6 months ago I did replace the 2 and 3-way Norgrens near the level-low as well as the leveling valve.

I suspect my problems were from the front-drive air bags, which were the ones with 8/95 date code. I think they spring a big leak at higher pressures, and this is why when either lifting the tag or using level-low caused problems. When lifting the tag, all of the weight in the rear would need to be held by 4 bags instead of 6, so the leveling valves would need to let in enough air to boost them, probably by 6/4 = 50% more psi to maintain correct height. This would cause the bags to leak and the coach would sink and the leveling valves continue to provide air with no resolution.

I was completely exhausted yesterday at sundown. Doing this on dirt is not fun. My new driveway should be good to drive over soon, so hopefully this is the last time I need to do repairs on dirt (at home). The timber-frame barn build should be starting in January!

Thanks to all of you for your help! I probably wont know for sure if everything is fine until Thursday, but I am feeling a lot more confident about the coach before doing this work.

[Art]

I’m still early stages in my conversion, I mostly just wanted into the compartment to clean and check systems hidden up in there!

I’ll worry about changing the mechanism later!

But thanks!!!

[Art]

Andrew… Loc told me he did post it here on PC and it was removed by admin despite it having been previously approved. And also despite the fact it is a 100% not-for-profit event – just a gathering of like minded folks. The only cost is each person pays for their own campsite. Here is the announcement for the 4th get together. ALL ARE WELCOME.

[Art]

For future reference…

At least the 1994 H3-40 front tire compartment is opened with a wrench like tool found under the front passenger seat area ( in the bay).

There are two large nut looking things that stick out from the bottom of the bumper. Loosen those with the wrench and the front bumper just dropped down!

[Art]

Thanks Rudy

This must be a newer policy since we have lapsed longer than 6 month prior and used our card. Good to know. We only needed 50 gallons so it protected me from using for less than 100 gallons. I wasnt thinking. We leave for Indio thursdsy and testing out the new to us “towed” was a excuse to fuel up. We traded the Land Rover off for a GMC Crewcab 1500 Z71

[Art]

Yes I love Tom Sawyer, just a little dicey going over the levee to get to the campsite.

[Art]

Oklahoma and Arkansas have occasional winter storms that will clear the next day. if your trip allows, The Big Texan RV is a good stop, then Tom Sawyer in West Memphis is good day drive to the East. Then Ashville, NC (cant remember the rv park name) will get you a short day drive to Ashboro.

Safe Travels

[Art]

Did u replace push fittings with compression ? Temp affects pupuch fittings like crazy when cold.

[Art]

Just got an email that there are 50 amp sites still available for the EXPO in February. Is the economy causing people to rethink their trips?

Considered Prevost owners to be somewhat insulated from the economy.

[Art]

Very sizable leak… would think you should be able to hear it.

If you are not parked inside a quiet enclosure, perhaps go listen EARLY one morning.

[Art]

Changed the Middle valve (armature), air loss over all slowed substantially but there are still more leaks to find…

Screws were rusted in and almost broke off when removing. Scared to attempt the others while in middle of a trip. Plan on ordering complete new 5 stack (minus electric solenoids) and replace when at home.

Got all my leaks to a minimum before leaving home knowing the cold would create more. Wow wasn’t ready for this level of more leaks. O well, at least I am finding leaks. Some days I think getting all the air leaks stopped would be like winning the Lotto (extremely low probability but great pay off)

[Art]

Change the armature and/or tighten the armature (valve) down with the 2 screws holding it to the manifold base. That may fix it. There are 2 O-rings under it.

The valve is called (by Norgren) an “armature”, Norgren pt # 54462-31, available from a norgren.com dealer and/or ebay.

The electric thing is a coil, either 12vdc or 24vdc.

12v = Norgren pt# 54452-02, or 24vdc = 54452-03.

[Art]

Mike:

We think the same. First thing I did was to rapidly pump the brakes down, the aux went to 90 Psi and stopped. Next I dumped the Aux and the brake tanks stayed up.

We are traveling and at a quiet campground this morning. Aired up, blocked the wheels, turning Eng off, left key on, can see gauge slowly dropping but still can’t hear a leak. Think I hear something between the tags but can’t confirm. At the rate I am losing air I should hear it

Chuck