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Sure Roger
I see you have a converted coach, I am converting mine from OTR coach. I could show you my project. Wife calls her “Olga”, says she is my “second wife” (Olga that is).
Rob
91 Prevost XL 40
Missouri
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Hi Guys
The sticky numbers you’re looking for are available at Lowes right in the same section as the electrical tools, wrenches. The clear heat shrink I had to order off the web. 4′ was $8 delivered to my home, could get it at a local electric house but they wanted to sell me 100′ for $25, didn’t need even 4′ but certainly didn’t need 100′. Be sure to order 3/4″ so it fits over the lugs easily, if it is 3M, it shrinks by 75% so should give a snug fit. If not 3M, ask what the shrink rate is becasue many are less than 50%.
Rob
91 Prevost XL40
Missouri
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computer stuff scares me……. in the beginning and some progress and some pictures of 89 if you can get to other albums on my photo bucket account. all albums are bus related and open to public.
See next Post.
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Perhaps an involved Hector Session could be done on the Webasto System….hmmmm I have read over the article done by the one and only Honorable Mango Mike, but a more detailed ( re: pics) session would proabably help many of us so-so mechanics
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Hector started it so I will emphasize it.
Do not ever under any circumstances, even to do a minor task get under a coach that has not been supported at the body support points. A number of us use support stands, but in the absence of stands the next best thing is this jack which I also have used: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200305255_200305255
With the hydraulic portion of the jack in the lowest position it cannot allow the bus to drop, and if the center adjusting screw is fully extended it almost reaches the chassis support point with the suspension fully raised. At 20 tons capacity and absolutely no hydraulic support the bus can be lowered onto the jacks and it will be supported and safe to go under. If you wish you can leave the bus fully raised as long as you take care not to move the jack out from under the support points.
These are stands under the front support point on a 96 XL.
This is a stand under the rear support point behind the tag axle. Looks like I need to shine my transmission.
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Well I have to admit I didn’t think I was going to get to register because I own Setra’s!
When I tried clicking on the “register” icon in the top right corner it kept coming up “page not available” so I thought ya’ll had a filter on it to keep guys like me from registering. But I found a back door into it by reading this post and trying to reply to it. And it brought me to the registration page.
So there you have it a non-Prevo guy has found his way in and as the rest will say “There goes the neighborhood because BK is here!”
;D BK ;D
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DKO
I just went through this myself from a little different perspective. I am converting an over the road bus to a motorhome. On the OTR bus, the batteries are in the 4th bay, so I had to move them to the engine compartment with the voltage regulator, several breakers and rerun about 100′ of new wire to put it all back together. Rather than number everything, I took pictures, thinking I could work from them,. Huge mistake!!! I took the pics but didn’t look at them before I dismantled everything. I got it all dismantled, moved and was ready to rewire. Pulled out the trusty camera, yup there were the pics but because the camera was not made to take closeup pics, the pics were all blurry and you could not see anything. I called out for help and Jon and Bob on this forum came to my rescue with wiring diagrams. I followed them, and after some initial tweeking I had to do, the system is back in and working great. I used a similar numbering system so when I have to do it again, it won’t be nearly as difficult a problem. I numbered each battery from 1 to 4, then attached an N or P to it and then wrote those on each cable. For example, you may have a cable that on one end says 1P and the other is 3P. That cable runs from the positive pole of battery 1 to the positive pole of battery 3. I used white electrical tape as the label and wrote on it with a sharpie then covered the elecrical tape with clear shrink wrap. I used this system to label all the cables, including the ones from the inverters, the chassis ground, etc. With the shrink wrap covering everything, the numbers should stay intact and visible for years to come.
Rob
91 Prevost XL 40 “Olga”
Missouri
I read your thread about that. The picture part of it would be funny if it hadn’t cause so mucn trouble. I glad you got it all worked out.
I used white electrical tape and a sharpie for my labels too but didn’t know how to protect them for future use. Thanks for the tip. I was going to use number labels like an eletctrician uses in a control panel but could not find any on the spur of the moment. I thought an auto parts store would have them but I am sure that an electrical supply house would.
DKO.
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Now that presentation is excellent at understanding the system. I really felt stupid not being able to understand the Prevost drawing with all the airlines.
Thank you for such a great description.
Ed Roelle
Grand Blanc, MI
98 Royale Prevost
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You disconnected the ground on the equalizer? It was never mentioned and I never thought of it. It makes sense though.
DKO
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I did the same project last week, and did it the same as you did, ( with exception of disconecting the equaliser groung before disconecting anything else) with the same results that you had. All is good.
A second look at the pictures lead me to believe that you used 3 different brands of batteries.
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OK, I’ll be in Myrtle Beach site H26.
Get on board folks, it will be a nice time to be in Myrtle…
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Bill,
Where are the Royale folks going to be in the campground?
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cost initial less— better fuel ecconomy in tenth’s per gallon. Usually large fleets. Dis:: one tire flat you can’t limp in. Reason I ask is have a chance to get a deal on two low milage one year old with rims off wrecked semi that will fit 98 with correct size tires for coach for $1000 for pair rims and all. Actually it is four for 2 grand and was thinking about all four and putting on both coaches. I have a 89 Xl also. The dual vs single flat thing is the only draw back I can see. In 22 yrs I’ve only had one flat on a drive tire and that was before sensors. So??
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did not know center one needed to be there but once you said it it made sense. lesson two on voltage will check-switches are also missing -another story but minor set back. Everything in front of differential is in tact so all valve-norgren-hose to bags still good so all they need is signal from front. Life is good. Can button that area (rear differential) /compartment up now and install engine and trans back in. I left it out for ease of access to all the air /brake lines valves etc. Thanks Bob
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That’s the guy