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About $15K in material for the route I ended up taking. I worked the project part time over a 3 month period. Actual hands on time was about 3 weeks for me. I had a great deal of interior and wiring that I had to deal with. Disassemble was a lot quicker than the reassemble. The other time consuming element was fitment checks and configuring clearance for the headlights lights.
Alex
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Been using one the last two weeks (Florida to Maine). Easy setup and rocket fast, did notice a few slower times in the evenings occasionally.
Also working well with VOIP (WiFi calling) in bad cell coverage areas.
Chuck
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Jeff what did you do with your exhaust system? My Muffler is in need of replacement.
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Can we start a (What did you do to your bus today Part 2 or Rev 2)? The form is starting to take a while to load due to it’s size.
Chuck
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I bought one of those after a stay in a FL campground that developed a transformer problem on the main line coming in. Volts were between 99-104 during heat of the day. A/C’s were not happy. Florida Power & Light was a week or so out for replacement.
This spring at another FL campground, line volts were 108-112 or so, plugged in Autoformer and way better.
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MemberJune 13, 2022 at 8:18 pm in reply to: BELT for D.D. upgraded alt. belt tensioner kit?Luc
I can do better than that – here is kit component list showing hose length at 21.40 inches.
Also an eBay seller that shows to have 2. I found my purchase receipt – I paid $100 in 2020. So that seems high – but what isn’t anymore.
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That’s how my ’88 was setup as well. The switch between 30 and 50 burned up so i removed the old 30 amp wiring which left 1 50 amp cord with a gap in the middle. Itnwas the prefect place and space for a built in 50 amp Surge Guard from Camping world.
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MemberJune 12, 2022 at 10:47 pm in reply to: BELT for D.D. upgraded alt. belt tensioner kit?Don can you detail what is needed to build this upgrade
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Archived
MemberJune 12, 2022 at 10:46 pm in reply to: BELT for D.D. upgraded alt. belt tensioner kit? -
One place where those splitters come in handy are at places where the 15 or 30 amp power outlets are in a long string. Most of the time they were wired with one phase to one box and the other phase to an adjacent box, etc. We see this at places like remote Elks Club RV areas. If no one is next to you the splitter will allow you to get 15 or 30 amps on each side of the coach. Be sure to unplug out of courtesy if someone comes in and wants to park in the space where your splitter line is plugged in.
Jerry
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Archived
MemberJune 12, 2022 at 2:00 am in reply to: BELT for D.D. upgraded alt. belt tensioner kit?Turns out I got the DD belt in the kit, and the 23539139 is the right belt.
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I am in Austin, TX. However, I just dropped off my coach at Texas Custom Coach / CoachWorks in Pipe Creek. They are doing some paint/body work for me (had an incident in my first couple days of ownership I am finally getting fixed after nine months). I meant to ask CoachWorks if they work on Cruiseair, but forgot in the moment when I had to drop off. I’ll follow up with them on Monday.
I agree roof air IMO probably is the best solution, but I am just not sure I am ready to go that far. I do have existing ductwork for my RVAC, but I really doubt they would work all that well for a roof-air (and wouldn’t I need at least two of them for equivalent cooling capacity?). I was also hoping for much higher efficiency units, and it does not seem like the roof airs are really worried about that. Luckily the RVAC is working right now, but I’m sure it’s just a matter of time before that goes, too. Once that goes, I also want to figure something else out for that, maybe a solution involving a ducted mini-split in the same place, who knows.
One other reason I am reluctant to do roof air is that right now I have a pretty clear roof, and I’d like to keep that for a large solar array some day.
Doesn’t bus air get it’s condenser cooled by somewhere lower on the bus, like one of the bays? I wonder how it manages to do so well under similar conditions.
FWIW, If I could get a mini-split working for the stateroom, with condenser placed in right rear, then I would be able to dedicate the front spare tire area for a single front mini-split (I expect there would need to be *major* surgery to the condenser unit to optimize and fit in that area), and this unit could be IMO a much more appropriate BTU for that front area (15k cruiseair is way underpowered) IMO.
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You were fortunate. You’re 2/3’s of the way to 30amp!
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Trying to pronounce Mike’s forum tag
please explain the significance of it
thanks