[Fred]

Dick,

The fuse is between the charger and the battery.

[Fred]

Interesting setup Bryan and that would explain your light coming on at low RPM. On my Marathon, the 270 amp 50DN takes care of the house and I can run 2 cruiseairs also and the smaller 24v alternator handles the chassis.

[Fred]

The cost of ownership probably needs to be spread over time. We have certain fixed costs such as housing, tires, batteries, insurance, registration, air bags, coolant changes and transmission fluid changes. There are other things that in my opinion age out or are annual expenses.

Then we have the variables that are typically related to miles. Oil changes, fuel, lubes, and other use related expenses. The more we drive the more it costs us, but when we start amortizing the fixed expenses over the miles driven we find the more we drive the smaller the cost on a per mile basis.

In our time of coach ownership I have repaired or replaced everything at one time or another. What is difficult to include in a cost analysis is a reliable means of recognizing repairs not tied to an annual or mileage related list such as transmission or engine repairs, brakes, differential repairs, a failed refrigerator, a bad AC unit, etc. They happen, we know at some point id we onw a coach long enough we will spend money on such repairs, but we have no hard and fast rule on how to quantify the costs.

Based on my current number of annual miles driven I have been running around $1.20 to $1.50 per mile driven. That includes only actual expenses and does not reflect big surprises such as a transmission repair. It is skewed to an extent because I do all my own work, but offsetting that is I replace certain things whether they need it or not such as air bags. It will be an interesting thread to see what others are experiencing.

[Fred]

Jimmy,

Is this really a need, or is it more of a want? From 45′ I would think you could hear someone call you with simply a loud voice. We have some hand held walkie talkies used when we were moving and driving different vehicles, I could send you the model numbers if you want to consider a really inexpensive way to communicate with the bedroom from the driver’s seat. I can imagine that communication could be very distracting and distracted driving is the equalivent to drowsey driving which is equivilent to drunk driving. So why bother. Cell phones, no good either.

[Fred]

Started the Generator today’s manually, and then started it through the #1 Inverter. Starting it through the inverter, the AC2 light flashes and never goes solid, no A/C power, even after several minutes, then the Generator tries to shut down.

Then, started it manually, no AC in 2 lights at all, Inverter yellow light on steady inverting.

I went outside to the gen, and started it there, and checked the voltage at the Generator breaker, and it was only reading 15.4 volts. On both sides of the breaker.

Anyone have any ideas as to what to check? It seems to work at times, and other times not, which may lead to a bad relay or something. Hoping its not inside the Stator or something.

Attached below is picture of inside the control box on Gen. It’s a 17.5 Powertech.

Thanks

[Fred]

Jerry, you have done a great job. One thing to make sure of is that you have installled it in a manner that protects the aux system. I am not familiar with the physical layout on H model coaches, but on the X models there is a converter attach point on the aux air system in the vicinity of where your compressor is located. That has a protection valve so if anything happens to breech the compressor or its tank the air loss will not disable the balance of the air system.

I express that concern because our coach air systems are required to be built to DOT standards likely not met by consumer compressor manufacturers.

Also make sure you have installed a water trap or separator. Moisture in our air systems leads to problems.

[Fred]

I was in the Fire Service for a very long time. The only alternator that would stand up to that rigorous service was Niehoff. What didn’t have a Neihoff, we swapped out; all new equipment we spec’d the Neihoff. If you can go with a competitor that just “bolts up”- that would be a strong consideration, and you can purchase local. With the Niehoff you want to make sure you have a Cerified Service Center that is close, if needed. You want to stay away from someone who says, “Oh, we work on those.” When in fact they have never seen one.

Fred ’01 CC Magna

[Fred]

We’ll be in Sugarloaf key at the KOA starting on the 30th for 2 weeks. Don’t have a boat but may rent one. We do plan on going to key west at some point while we’re there. We have been to the keys before but only for a

couple days at a time. Looking forward to taking our time and enjoying what nature has to offer. Rick

[Fred]

I would get the proper vacuum breaker and reinstall it where the cap is.(are you sure that cap is not the vacuum breaker, they do look like it in that application??) You should locate the tank spray and remove it and clean it, as they do clog. I am sure CC put some sort of access panel where that spray is. The nozzle is held in place by stainless screws and a bead of clear silicone. Clean the nozzle or increase the holes by one drill index size, put a bead of clear silicone around the nozzle flange, reinstall the screws.(just snug)

Fred ’01 CC Magna- Plastic

[Fred]

The time of the year is beautiful with really nice temps, and it just precedes the summer rush. There is no lack of things to do in the area, ranging from Dollywood (don’t laugh, its a lot of fun), spending time in Gatlinburg with its neat shops and Ripley’s Aquarium, hiking in the Smokies, shopping at all the venues, or just enjoying meeting and greeting in lawn chairs on the banks of the French Broad River.

I will start gathering a list of neat things to do and see.

[Fred]

All of the above goes for us too!

Thanks Tom & Jon…..we appreciate you greatly!!!