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Replaced the leaky ole frt left gear oil hub cap with a Stemco# 343-4024 unit from Prevost # 611252. While in there inspected the outer bearing and race.
Set bearing end play to .0035” end play. Acceptable range is .001” to .005”.
Replenished gear oil w/Amsoil SVG 75w-90.
Jeff and Lindsay
91 Marathon XL -
Nice work, I always struggle with this range, too close to .001″, too close to .005″ oh what to do. What is the Black Bracket, your Wheel cover mount?
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Also, Lubed front end and front calipers.
Here is how to grease calipers:
a) remove the poppet fitting
b) pump Meritor pt# A1779W283, which is NLGI#1 grease, into the 2 grease fittings until fresh grease comes out the poppet fitting hole.
c) release the pawl on the slack adjuster and adjust or loosen it(lengthen stroke) fully which is about 4 or 5 360 turns of the adjuster. This will force excess grease out of the poppet fitting hole.
d) reinstall the poppet valve/fitting
e) re tighten(shorten stroke) of slack adjuster fully until pads are clamping the rotor, then release the pawl again and loosen/release(lengthen) stroke 1/2 to 3/4 turn. DONE -
Mike, yes for the ole school hub caps we have.
Here’s a link for the Meritor (Rockwell) straight non drive axles:
http://graphicvillage.org/meritor/mm2.pdf
see p.67 for the end play spec.
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Finally got around to flipping over the engine door latch handle that Prevost built upside down. 3/16″ SS rivets.
Picked up 2 new steer tires on the Advantage program. $913 + sales tax each. Put them on next weekend.
Already had all the fun I can stand this weekend. Replace the 3 amp fuse in the Bose subwoofer in the bedroom sound system. A lot harder than it sounds.
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Glad this post is still going, I have been cleaning my Engine bay today, will be painting my Belt cover/Grease Catcher Sail Blue like my Racor. Replaced my Alternator Belts and my Fan belt.
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At 5 yr point mostly leak free until today.. I have had 3 prevost and dam chasing air leaks is the worst. I know almost every circuit personally .. no magic pill here.! Maybe the system just needs to leak! toooo keeeep me young! HiHo over the pit we go! I have about every air leak tester known–from electronic to hvac leak equipment. I have my own pit. So is just a agervation more than any thing…
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the ac testing leak finder. It is a thick blue liquid that comes with a swab. I’ll look when up to shop and post. It stays put awhile and detects slow leaks. Rectorseal Better Bubble==Product code 65554
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Continuing my Engine Bay cleanup, I cleaned and Painted my belt cover/grease catcher. the previous owner drilled so many holes in the cover to move it around, i made new stainless inserts for the mounting. 1/4″-20 acorn nuts and lock washers and a new Belt.
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Nice Mike ,really nice ,like all your updates ,keep up the good work.
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Thank You, I really enjoy working on these Engineering Marvels.
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I am curious as to what means other Bus owners use to keep track of their spare parts. I guess we have two categories, On The Bus, and on the shelf.
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I fitted some sun shields for almost all the side windows. This was made from https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831QM1TW?th=1
We are getting into mid-90’s here in Texas right now. Adding this has made a huge difference in inside temps. I think this is the only way I can travel in the Summer and maintain reasonable inside temps while using the RVAC + dash A/C.
I am trying to avoid running the generator while driving, so trying to use only the RVAC (and not turning on two Cruseairs). Also, front CruiseAir seems to stop working in high outside heat after a couple hours.
So far the shields are just placed without anything holding them there. With cellular window shades down, I think they will stay in place. There’s a couple spots, left and right above driver & passenger, where I’ll need to use something, probably velcro.
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Here’s what I and others have done on our ole single pane XLs:
/threaddetails.asp?Category=General%20Discussions%3E&ThreadID=7856#65726
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