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  • Water heater relacement

    Posted by Reagan on January 2, 2017 at 3:48 pm

    I know I have received a lead to look at West Marine for replacement of the 10 gallon water heaters. I have done so and have looked at Atwood but the exact replacements are, of course, no longer available. In the CC conversion, the heaters were well installed and have lasted well but the new water heater dimensions do not fit… they are too large. It is really a problem. The steel frame work is too restrictive to re-install the new versions.

    What is wrong with scrapping the two heater set-up and installing a high quality 20 gallon heater with heat exchanger?

    It will fit if we remove the initial steel frame work that held them stacked one above the other?

    We will build a brace for the new heater.

    Thank you.

    Pres

    Will replied 9 years, 8 months ago 11 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • Archived

    Member
    January 2, 2017 at 5:51 pm

    Jeff replaced both of mine this summer but they were not Atwood but another brand.

    The one difference I am aware of is the engine heat exchanger connection is not on the back of the heaters anymore and a slight modification has to be made but mine are working great.

    I can find out the brand or you can email Jeff.

  • Bill

    Member
    January 2, 2017 at 6:09 pm

    Thank you… I believe we have to order two new 10 gallon heaters. I will inquire of Jeff as to the model and changes.

    I wish he was closer… he seems to really know his business.

    I will verify with Atwood where their hose connections are for the newer models.

    Thank you

    Pres

  • Corey

    Member
    January 2, 2017 at 7:33 pm

    Pres,

    If you decide to go the single tank way, check out Raritan, that’s what Liberty used in the past.

    Raritan Water Heater

  • Archived

    Member
    January 3, 2017 at 11:48 am

    To Buddy Brown:

    Thank you for the information. I have placed a call to Jeff at East Tn. Luxury Coach. I understand from Atwood that the connections for the heat exchanger are now in front. I assume that can be handled fairly easily by extending the hose from the back to the front by 90 degree elbows and additional lengths of hoses. It actually might be better to be able to add the hoses bringing the connections to the front where they can be accessed more easily for installation and potential trouble shooting if there is a leak that develops. I believe it will fit properly.

    Jeff is 950 miles from Houston… we have our own experienced machanic here but Jeff obviously knows his stuff and has the experiences of his many years of service and I regret I cannot use his services more easily. We got the old units out and are awaiting input as to the brand name we should use. I am refinishing the water heater supporting frame work and the compartment area that will house the units as time allows.

    Thank you again,

    Pres

  • Hector

    Member
    January 3, 2017 at 7:24 pm

    Pres, my wife who works for Dometic, that now owns Atwood, told them two years ago that there was a problem. They engineered new water heaters, that didn’t fit the spaces of their older w heaters, while Suburban was making theirs fit Atwood’s holes. Being a female they blew her off, a few months ago a male colleague told them they had a problem now they are looking into it. So in the meantime check the Suburban sizes and you will find an exact fit without altering anything.

  • Gary

    Member
    January 3, 2017 at 8:08 pm

    Pres, I changed out my Atwood EHP 10’s to EHM11’s this fall. Same dimensions, but the engine coolant connections are on the front instead of the back, 90 degree fittings and a bit of heater hose and you’re good to go. Amazon has them from several different sources.

  • Tim

    Member
    January 3, 2017 at 10:17 pm

    Thanks to all…we are on it…

    I will follow up on each recommendation.

    Making progress

    Pres

  • Archived

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 12:02 am

    We haver repleced the two water heaters and have them “hooked up” ….without the electricals to the thermostats, etc….. and are trying to run coolant through the heat exchanger hoses / lines to test all connections. We have not added water to the heaters yet.

    PROBLEM

    The hoses are full of coolant but we get no circulation of the coolant though them when the engine is operating and therefore the heat exchangers are not hot.

    The furnace for the coach works great and the dash air works well on their separate functions.

    We have checked the green faucet next to the Webasto and have made certain that the three other faucets in the lines between the Webasto and the engine area (where we can see) are also opened. We see a total of four faucets…

    Are there more???

    The coolant is hot all the way to the water heaters via the line that functions primarily for the furnace but the adjacent lines running parallel to it going to the water heaters are not hot at all….

    Something is stopping the flow through the heat exchanger lines. . the stoppage, we think, is somewhere between the engine and the water heaters… How many faucets are there or who has an idea of what might be wrong?

    This one has been a lu lu…

    Any suggestions?

    Thank you.

    Pres

  • Reagan

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 6:17 am

    If all valves are open, it may have air in the line or an obstruction in the heater coolant loop. Are the heaters full of water, may have a device that doesn’t allow coolant flow without water. Any chance there were plugs that didn’t get removed from the new heater line? Are you on high idle to get the pump to run faster?

    Just suggesting some what if’s…. You could also pull the lines back off and see if you can force air through the coils to confirm nothing was obstructing the flow.

  • Jim/Chris

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 9:10 am

    Pres I think the way mine works is you have to have the Central Heat Control button on and the water heater switches on so it opens the two electric solenoids that allow the Webasto/Engine loop to go through the heaters.

    I think if the hot water switches are not on the system is not calling for heat and nothing will happen.

    Let me know what happens.

  • Greg

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 9:34 am

    Thank you … Our intent was to try to make certain that the “coolant” connections did not leak before we connected the water and electronics. If the water is connected and the coolant then leaks, it is harder to correct.

    We filled the heater exchage coils with coolant so there is no blockage that we can tell.

    Nonetheless, I believe we will go ahead and connect all of the water and electronics.

    I felt that the water heater would have some type of protection against allowing the heat exchangers to operate if there was no water in the heaters… I am calling Kuuma this morning.

    Thank you… we are close…

    Pres

  • Archived

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 1:52 pm

    Unlike heaters that are using an electric heating element, continuous flow of engine coolant without water in the heater will do no harm. The electric element will be damaged if it is energized when there is no water in the tank.

  • Archived

    Member
    January 17, 2017 at 9:58 pm

    Thank you to all…

    I believe we are going to replace or re-build the valves that control the flow of the coolant through the heat exchangers. After which, we will then connect the electronics to the water heaters.

    Again… thank you to all…

    Pres

  • Fred F.

    Member
    January 18, 2017 at 9:42 pm

    I apologize for asking so many questions regarding the installation of these two water heaters but since we are in the battle…. we cannot determine why the coolant will not flow through the heat exchangers in the new heaters…

    We have the heat exchangers full of coolant and with the engine running… the solenoid valve we believe is activated… the coolant does not flow….

    We have all of the visible faucets open…

    The picture below displays a red handled valve near the Webasto and the red handled valve is open. The picture also shows a black container-looking device perhaps like a “modulator valve” that is near by. The strange thing about this device is that the hose on the engine side is “hot” while the hose going to the front is “cold.” Does any one know what this black container device is or what it does ??

    Could this device stop the flow of coollant to the water heaters? If so, what opens the device?

    Thank you again for your attention to this inquiry,

    Pres

  • Will

    Member
    January 19, 2017 at 7:54 am

    How do you know the solenoid valve is opening?

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