[Dick]

Thanks to all for great insight and information. I am making several adjustments. I am “X”, crossed with my straps, but because of my shock mounting brackets I am closer to the differential than the wheels.

Thanks again,

Roy

[Allan]

Roy,

Will try to explain what some are saying and give you my 2 cents.

First, Al brought up sprung and unsprung weight. What he was referring to is how you are tied down. You have unsprung weight (tires and axles) and sprung weight (everything else sitting on the springs).

As you are presently tying down, you are only securing the unsprung weight (tires and axles) and therefore allowing the entire Jeep (sprung weight) to swing and sway in turns, stopping, starting, in other words, move about putting a strain on your straps.

You have the axles secure and the jeeps body is just bouncing along for the ride. You need to make the entire load and the trailer “One”. In other words, nothing should move while on the trailer.

I do not know how the front is tied, but on the back I see 2 large tow hooks that are bolted toward the outside of the bumper. The bumper is tied to the frame (sprung weight). The jeep body (sprung weight) is tied to the frame.

If you take the strap from the right side of the trailer to the left tow hook and the strap from the left side of the trailer to the right tow hook, you have criss crossed the straps as, Jon mentioned, preventing lateral movement. Your straps on the trailer are secured well aft of the load preventing fore movement and hopefully the front straps are situated well in front of the Jeep to prevent aft movement.

When you tighten the straps it will pull the sprung weight down (Jeep body and frame) preventing it from bouncing about as well as putting extra weight on the tires causing them to have more grip on the trailer and slide less while keeping the sprung weight from moving about.

If you have the same wide spaced tow hooks on the front, I would do the same criss cross to the bumper. You will be securing the sprung weight making the load (Jeep) one with the trailer to prevent it from bouncing about. Plus it will be easier to tie down as you will not have to crawl under the jeep to wrap the straps around the axle.

Then, as Dick mentioned, crank it down tight, then at your first stop, crank em some more.

OK, PC crew, shoot me down. The more information the better. :O)

[Archived]

Triple Fox, thank you….. An excellent post explaining in detail.

Your examples explain what happens when you load a car transport. Load position and weight is evenly placed on tractor and trailer.

Roy’s Jeep needs to be tied down solid, nothing moves or bounces while running.

Next time PC folks…. when you see a “portable parking lot” look closely. If you see any part of the load bouncing a chain needs attention.

AL

[TJ]

This needs to be put in perspective.

What Al and Fred are saying is the vehicle chassis has to be so well secured that it will not move relative to the trailer. That is the objective. If only the wheels / tires or axles are secured to the trailer the entire vehicle is going to bounce around on its suspension as it goes down the highway.

But keep in mind one thing when securing the vehicle to the trailer. You ARE going to get movement unless you can put so much tension on the straps that the vehicle on the trailer is bottomed out on the suspension. Every one of us who has driven our coaches for any length of time has hit the kind of depressions in the road followed by a quick rise that has compressed the air bags so much it seemed like the bus has bottomed out. We get that sense because under those rare road conditions our air seats likely do bottom out.

A car on a trailer is subject to the same forces and while the “whoop-dee-doop” of the road may not bottom the car chassis on its suspension the tie down chains or straps are going to be momentarily slack. It is going to happen and the only important thing to remember when securing the vehicle is to insure the straps will not come loose if the straps get momentarily slack. Trucks hauling cars are usually using a hook device that not only requires the chains to go slack, but that the hook securing the chain to the car has to turn 90 degrees before it comes loose.

[Roy]

The slack straps/chains snapping back after a bad road dip is worse than having the suspension move around in my opinion. Hauled a lot of vehicles chained or strapped to the axles with no issues.

[Allan]

Get some of these… hook to the frame and not tires/axle or A ARMS! (ye, people actually strap to A Arms!).

grabbing to the frame will compress suspension and not allow the body to bounce around, allowing the tires to hop around.

You can get these at most towing supply places (almost all flatbed tow truck drivers tie to frame, as well as transport companies) or at Northern tool.

Still do the cross tie down with heavy duty ratching tie downs, but go to the frame and not suspension parts.

Oh ye… DONT HOOK TO THE D-RINGS ON THE BUMPERS! they are designed for recovery (as in you got yourself stuck in the mud). Those are meant for direct pull and not down forces. Down force will bend the mounts/bumper. Seen many off-road rigs try this and end up with their nice fancy metal bumpers angled down.

[Roy]

Factory frame opening designed to accept this fitting.

Inserted in opening then twisted, slight drop and stays attached, even in road snapping force.

Large oval ring above gang chain hooks, for tie down chain or strap.

[Archived]

Great information and discussion , thank you all. Evaluating And making changes.

Roy

[Archived]

Roy,

I have several trailers I pull, and have for many years. A stacker, a single car enclosed and an open car hauler very similar to yours.

All the info above is good.

Most importantly, cross X your straps, keep quality tires, keep the bearings lubed, and do your best not to run over curbs when turning.

I also flat tow at times, but mostly tow trailers dealing with Hot rods, Harleys and race cars.

You are doing great, keep it up!!

[Dorel]

Looks good Jerry, almost went the trailer route a few years ago.

[Roy]

Thanks Tom

[joel]

Thanks Jerry,

I too, think all the information is good. We are now well over a thousand miles in our first trailer towing trip and all is well. I will only run the tires four years or less and buy the best ones I can. I have not hit any curbs, yet.

Roy

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1999 XLV X-6872,  liberty #440

[Ronald]

Just to stir the pot, but first I am crossing (X) my tie down straps.

MAC STRAPS, of Sagle Idaho, the leading America manufacturer of tie down straps, recommends not crossing the tie down straps. Their reasoning says the if one strap breaks, a crossed strap can pulled the car towards the remaining one. Where as if they are straight, the vehicle stays straight. Just their recommendation.

Roy

[Roy]

Roy wrote: “MAC STRAPS … recommends not crossing the tie down straps. Their reasoning says the if one strap breaks, a crossed strap can pulled the car towards the remaining one.”

Errrrrrrr … “if one strap breaks”. I suppose that can happen, especially if the straps are not taken care nor stored of properly, not replaced when they are damaged or have been weathered, or never inspected.

Roy also wrote: “ I have not hit any curbs, yet.“

There are two kinds of drivers who tow trailers … those who have jumped the curb with a trailer and those who will eventually jump a curb. Its only a matter of time.

[Brady]

Ok Dick, true confessions, I jump a curb on my practice run towing behind my Ford Excursion. So, now I an being extra careful. But, I agree, just a matter of time.

Roy