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supplemental braking systems
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Carguy,
There are two factors that drive the decision to use a supplemental braking system. One is whether the towing vehicle has sufficient braking capacity to stop the additional weight. In many cases our coaches have enough braking to handle coach and TOAD. However, I’m in the camp that opts for additional braking when it can be effectively accomplished.
The other factor and one many try to avoid is a state’s requirement for a break-away braking system. I have yet to find a state that does not require a break away braking system on anything weighing more than 1,500 to 3,000 pounds (depending on the state). The only exception is given to tow truck operators. Some suggest that if the state doesn’t specifically spell out a vehicle being towed 4 down then its excluded from the requirement. My read on every state’s law that I’ve looked at is that a vehicle towed 4 down fits the description of a trailer in those states that don’t spell out a 4 down tow. I hope no one ever has to challenge this in court due to a break away situation. I’m not an attorney, but a bit of common sense suggest to me you’ll loose.
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I looked at Demco, Blue Ox and Roadmaster coach mounted tow bars and concluded they are basically the same in their “non-binding” design. Their main difference is the swivel point at the coach. I didn’y care for Blue Ox’s ball, although they are likely the most popular. I like Demco’s self supporting arms, but after nearly 20,000 mies of using Roadmaster I’m pleased and now realize the self supporting feature really would be unnessary for me. I will say that self supporting would have been nice a few times so I wouldn’t have to lay the arms in the dirt. I opted for Roadmaster mainly for their car mounts. Unlike Blue Ox, I feel that Roadmaster has a more robust car mounting plate, at least for the 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee and 2012 Ford Explorer I bought plates for. Roadmaster’s car mount included an additional horizontal arm that should more evenly distribute the laterral force in a turn to both left and right vehicle mounting points. When I first bought my Roadmaster system I had a read a few messages on how Blue Ox systems failed at the vehicle connector point or the car failed at that same point. When I bought the Explorer mount early this year I see that they now offer the mount with or without the additional horizontal arm. To me, they must be feeling the pressure to be like Blue Ox with a more aestetic offering rather than sticking with what appears to have been a better engineered solution.
Jon,
I’m not sure you’ve seen a vehicle with their mounting arms removed. When mine is removed you have to look close to see where they are. Mine has covers and and it’s the elecrical connector that likely first draws anyone’s attention to the front of the car. I suspect what you’ve seen is cars with the full vehicle mount attached, which would be the equivalent of your tow var being folded against your bumper.
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When we got our first coach every tow bar was folded and remained on the toad. There were no other options. The market eventually gravitated to RV mounted tow bars with nearly invisible receivers for the arm attach points.
I have two objections to RV mounted tow bars based on my use of one. The principle objection is the angle of the tow bar relative to the ground is what it is. There are no devices or ways to have a level tow bar and if an RV mounted tow bar is level it is pure luck. When I was towing either our Hummer or Dodge pickup they were at two different levels because the toad base plates are mounted where Roadmaster determines they need to be. To keep my tow bar level all I have to do is adjust the height of the ball. That was not possible with the RV mounted tow bar.
My second objection is to connect or disconnect I had to deal with two pins. Not that big a deal except nowhere as easy as just dropping the tow bar on the ball and latching it. I place function over form so I have no objection when traveling to have the tow bar folded and sticking on the front of the toad. Neither the pickup or the Hummer are beauty queens so I am not concerned about driving around with the folded tow bar hanging on the front of either. If I towed a car that looks great I might have a different opinion. The tow bar comes off the toad with the removal of pins and safety cable when not in use and it is hard to see the receivers so having a folded tow bar is not a permanent thing for the Hummer.
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Jon’s comment about the bar being level is correct. I have seen several toads where the bar was really off level. However the motorhome slide in bars can be made level by using a riser adapter for the 2″ receiver. It can be turned up or down depending on which way it needs to go. They can be found in several inch increments for adjustment. I used one for years on our Eagle to make the Roadmaster tow bar level. At this time I do not need it since the receiver height of the Prevost H3 and the Jeep Rubicon match up.
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Al:
We are about to install an Air Force One system on our 2001 H3 Marathon and was wondering where you mounted the Coach Air Connection Assembly (tank and valve ) on your H3..? Since our coaches are probably identical underneath. And also, did you do this on your own or have an installer do it?
Jim
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Don, I have the M&G on a Jeep wrangler ( towed about 10,000 miles) and a GMC Sierra pickup ( 2,000 miles). Both pulled by a Blue Ox all terrain variety with a 10,000 lb rating. The connections are easy on the tow bar and supplemental braking seems the way to go whether it’s Tom’s blood suckers or the peace of mind of knowing you are doing all you can to keep yourself and others safe.
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