[Archived]

Use Sharkbite fittings.

[Archived]

If you want to call me at 713 725 9486… we can discuss.

Please review the comments on this thread before calling.

There are different ways to install the water heater replacements.

If you mix a different type of brand with another, there may be additional issues.

Pres

[Per]

Thanks Pres,

Although I am moving on this project at a snails pace (been over 112 F for three weeks now) I did manage to pull the water heaters and pressure test, NO LEAKS. Kept a pressure gauge on them for 24 hours at 50 psi.

At this point I went two knuckles into my right nostril and finally started looking at the Goyen Valves. Sure enough, I pulled all five of them and found bits of this and that inside, mainly calcium deposits. I gave each of them an angioplasty and for good measure soaked everything (save the bellows) in 50-50 muriatic and water. They are ready to be reinstalled. Do not believe that any of them had ever been touched and the four mounting bolts on the head of a least three of them were finger tight. I re tighted to perhaps 10 foot pounds on each and used a titch of blue locktite.

I will report back….

[Dick]

Installed the Goyen Solenoid valves today, no leaks and operating correctly. These sneakey little things can bite if not given at the very least an annual check up. When the valve is actuated, the electro magnet gets hot, de activate and it cools rapidsly. Short story is that the top mounting bolts will become loose and will leak over time unless the owner or whoever checks for tightness on a regular basis. Locktite blue should do the trick….

Now all left to do is to put this snake ranch back together…..

[Archived]

Looks like I am joining the water heater replacement club.

The bottom of my two Atwood water heaters is leaking.

Mine are EHM11-SM 10.5 gallon, does this mean they have been previously replaced?

Is everyone using the Atwood direct replacement, or some other brand?

Atwood is now Dometic, which is also Kummo?

There appears to be several choices on West Marine’s website that look similar.

Any opinions of tank material, aluminum or stainless?

Any and all advice appreciated from those who have been there done that.

[Tim]

I replaced one of mine a couple of years ago….EHM11-SM (part #94550). The coolant loops are in the front; the old one had the loop in the back. 5/8″ Heater hoses worked well to connect .

[Hisham]

Mike,

Thanks for the reply and the info.

[Archived]

New water heaters ordered, Atwood 94550, due in next week.

We have travel plans, and will be traveling tomorrow, Monday and Tuesday.

Since only the bottom water heater is leaking at the moment, I disconnected the cold water feed from the bottom

and connected it directly to the top water heater. I plugged both the cold inlet and the hot outlet on the bottom

water heater. Should I shut off and or disconnect and plug the heat exchanger loop too?

Should I disconnect the wiring on the bypassed bottom water heater?

Will it cause any other problems by using just the top water heater?

[John]

I would be sure to remove power to the dead heater as well as shut off the coolant loop to the heaters.

[Adrienne]

Thanks Tom, the valves for the heat exchange loop is right above the water heaters.

If I disconnect the bypassed water heater will the other one still work? Not sure how they are inter connected.

[Archived]

I removed the two existing stacked water heaters. A tight squeeze to say the least.

Problem with the new water heaters, is they are not configured to stack. Called Atwood, and they say they are

not stackable. Also asked Atwood about special controler and thermo disc for top water heater, and they claim it

does not exist. Old water heaters were stacked, and wired to the top water heater from the coach and from the

top to the bottom. Not sure if I can just wire the new ones the same as th old ones, or if I have to use the old

When trying to switch the old brackets to the new water heaters, all the threads came out attached to the bolts

when I was removing the original brackets. Called Atwood, and of course they have never heard of that.

The brackets are aluminum, and I am trying to decide if I send the new water heaters back and be without

for a month or whatever it takes for Atwood to decide , or just tap the holes up to a 10M from an 8M, or tap

and insert Heli-coils. What say you PC Community?

[Mike]

whats the status of your project … i might be heading down this road ….. what was the final fix ……

[Dick]

I went with the retap to 10 mm. I called Atwood to find out what the tourque should be on the bolts. After an hour on hold, I was told that was a technical question and that they only answer technical questions for dealers. I finally convinced the customer service person to ask my question to “technical” for me. Twenty minutes later, the answer was “tighten them just snug enough.” Atwood was purchased by Dometic, enough said about their “customer service”.

I put magic lube sealer, on the gasket for the heating element, and locktite on the bolts. At this point, I have the lower one installed and working. Hopefully the top one will be in soon. If not, maybe Tom and Jon would like to use the install of my second water heater as part of the upcoming seminar at ETLC.

Feel free to contact me, if you want any further details.

[Archived]

Thanks , i hope i dont have to go this route … I am sure Tom and Jon would love to finish your coach at the seminar !

[Mike]

We would love to permit John to do a hands on demonstration of how to instlall his heater in the parking lot during the evening. We can arrange the lawn chairs in a semi circle and roott him on as he shows how to complete such a project. It will be his responsibility to have Teri prepared to pass out treats and beverages.