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This is only a guess but our chassis batteries will not be able to withstand voltages at the bulk voltage rate continuously, especially given the probability they are in a relatively warm environment.
For all of my coaches for the last 31 years I have replaced chassis batteries every five years and never experienced a need to replace sooner than that. The batteries removed were performing well and replacement was not because it was needed, but to do it before there was a need.
I have always insured my charging voltage was no more than 27.7.
Having said that there are 3 stage voltage regulators now on the market and they may be an acceptable alternative to a constant voltage. I do not know if those are sensing temperature to insure the correct charging voltage.
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Chad,
You have pictures of the changed voltage regulator? I have a 1989 chassis. I am almost certain my VR is original.
R
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Ron, I didn’t replace it. I forgot all about it until after everything was already back together. Fortunately, the old one works fine.
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Hey Don ! My DN50 is 12 volt to charge house batteries. I think on the Royales with OTR the the DN50 is 24v for all the heat exchanger fans, and like mine with out OTR the DN50 is 12v, One of my Aqua Hot customers Hank set me up with and OEM type 12v voltage regulator as a spare and a rebuilt 24v Delco alternator with built in regulator for chassic. I store them under bed just in case. Buchanan Auto Electric he is a Vanner dealer also. He’s a good guy knows his stuff.
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Don, those 3 wires that come off your new VR, the ground most likely lands on the chassis close to the VR, the field runs directly to the alternator, and the battery line, where does that go? Does it land on the positive terminal of the Alternator? Any relays or anything in between like ignition wire? My bus has a 12 volt relay in the Electrical enclosure top of engine bay, wondering if I can remove it.
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Source for the + wire? my guess would be:
in the electrical box above the engine, find a 12v post that is activated hot when the ignition is switched on
and/orFind the schematic at PrevostCar online. -
So here is my setup, I pulled the access hatch so i could see my 50DN better and I could trace the wires. There is a relay in the upper compartment box above the engine with a 5 pin relay. I tested this relay and it was shorted out, so I replaced it. In doing that I noticed my yellow wire 34 is shorted to ground with the key on or off. So basically the voltage can’t get to the VR without the relay passing the voltage to the VR via a signal from the yellow 34 wire. I guess I need to find a new key on signal to close this relay signal which will pass the voltage from the alternator to the Positive terminal of the VR.
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Here is that relay. Wondering why there needs to be a relay in between the VR and the alternator. I ordered the Transpo #698, it will be here sometime next week, I can’t really test anything until I get this. Does anyone on here understand how the VR works? I have a variable power supply that i connected to the Positive side of the VR, and I put a meter on the field connection. When i varied the voltage the field voltage did not have a linear affect. In fact when i set supply voltage to 13.6 the field went to 5V. an it would jump all over the place as i went from 14.2-12 on the feed side.
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