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Marinco 28220 Charger
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Seriously Ben? How many times would it take to deplete a good set of batteries?
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I’ve seen it happen in less than a week if there are a lot of “ins and outs” of the coach and bays.
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I do not have a chassis battery charger on the coach yet. I do have one that was on trolling motor batteries that I changed out for a larger one. When I went to a 36V 110# thrust on My river jet boat. Turns out it is a Marinco guest charger like Don’s. And now I know where I need to mount it. This charger will go to float and not fry My chassis batteries. They are made to leave plugged up and only top off the batteries when needed. I will probably just plug it up with an extension cord in the shop. That will keep Me from having to worry about another switch to turn off and on. Besides , I bet it is a PIA to get a circuit back there.
Thanks for the picture Don !
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I removed the old bulk charger from the battery bay and hope to install my new Marinco charger later this week. The new charger unit has two positive and negative leads. Can I combine the leads and wire them directly to the 24 volt lugs similar to that of old charger wiring. Photo shows the lugs I am referring to which are located directly to the right side of the old charger unit.
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Rocky: I had an electrical outlet on the ceiling of the engine bay that powered the original 24volt boat anchor charger that Liberty put in. Its on its own breaker. Apparently do you don’t have a similar outlet? Considering (carefully) going down through the bedroom closet with a circuit off the TV in bedroom. Put a switch in the bedroom.
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Dick I have a 120vAc outlet in the battery bay. I am not worried about that nor asking that question. What I would like to know is if I can combine the two charger leads of the new Marinco unit and wire them directly to the 24v DC lug posts in similar fashion to that of the old charger that I just yanked out. Thanks…..
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Take a look at the charger instructions or call the company, I used to use the older Guest chargers and combined the two 12’s for 24 volt charging with no problem. Not sure with newer models, here’s an example of splitting the two.
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Dick,
Mine did not come with a charger. I do have a outlet behind the TV in the bedroom that would be easy to tie into. And put a switch in the bay. Not sure if that is controlled by the aft outlet breaker or the TV breaker ? And that circuit might not be a good idea with the TV on it ? Running a cord to that bay in My shop will not be a problem though. Then I would not have to remember to turn it off. My chassis batteries have done good for 4 yrs without a charger. But its nice to have options.
Allan,
Specs say can be wired in series or parallel.
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Marinco 28220
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On my bus, there is a switched 110v outlet(female) inside the little door where the spare engine oil tank is located. My Marinco Guest Pro charger is plugged into this outlet. The on/off switch for this outlet is in the electrical cabinet. I have labeled it “Engine Heat or Pro Charger”. because I can unplug the Pro Charger and power the 110v block heater(male plug) with it if I’m on shore or generator power.
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Allan: I recall a number of members have posted they did what you’re suggesting; “combine the two charger leads of the new Marinco unit and wire them directly to the 24v DC lug posts in similar fashion to that of the old charger that I just yanked out.” I considered doing that. I wasn’t comfortable doing that, that is why I wired the Marinco unit into my battery cluster like the schematic I posted earlier in this thread. I had confirmed with the source of the schematic that he had used that method without problems. So I wired it like that. I’ve had to use the charger twice since I installed the Marinco/Guest charger. It charged the batteries. The cables didn’t melt. I couldn’t detect any unwanted burning electrical odors. The charger didn’t get hot.
Rocky: If you have the time to wire an outlet into the engine bay from the TV box in the bedroom and can do it without damaging anything and drilling into something you weren’t expecting, I would do it. Putting a convenience outlet in the closet off that circuit wouldn’t be a bad idea either, great place to put cordless tool and transponder chargers. I’m suggesting making it as convenient as possible to get power to the engine battery charger because you never know when you’re going to inadvertently draw down chassis batteries at a campground or at an overnight rest stop by leaving something “on”. Saves you the time and embarrassment of dragging out an extension cord to power the charger back in the bay.
Tom: I looked hard at that wiring diagram when I was wiring my charger in, but I couldn’t figure out how to apply that two battery wiring plan to our four battery cluster.
Remember boys and girls … when you’re wiring the charger into your chassis batteries NO jewelry, duct tape on ALL your tools, protect the ends of the battery cables with tie wraps and shops clothes. Don’t let the tools and cables inadvertently short out. Lots of amps. Quick welding. Take proper precautions and you’ll be fine … as I was on the three or four times I’ve had to futz with the chassis battery cluster.
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Thanks Dick and Tom. As far as I can tell the 24v DC lugs are wired to the equalizer and logic tells me both the 24v and 12v batteries will be charged without any inherent risks. Having said that I will watch the batteries and wiring when I turn the charger on…..and hopefully I won’t see any smoke.
1999 XLV X-6872, liberty #440
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