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LED Marker Lights
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I would like to add one item to Steve’s outstanding report. Obtain a hemostat(looks like needle nose pliers with handles that click/lock together) and get hold of the electrical feed wire BEFORE you cut the wire. This prevents the wire from slipping back inside the stainless and you having to dismantle the interior to thread the wire back through that tiny hole. Don’t ask me how I know this!
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Fred, won’t ask…can probably figure how. Will ask if you’re on your way to pick up your bus? Geo.
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Steve,
Great job and great post. Keep up the good work and keep practicing on yours so by the time we get our coach, you will be an expert. How about a picture of the finished project?
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Very nice Steve good job , I have replaced the lights on the side on two coaches all where in the same shape as yours bad, you can buy the well nuts from prevost
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Geo:
Leave Panama on Thursday of this week. Arrive at bus Sunday afternoon. Should finish paperwork Monday, have plates on by mid morning Wednesday. Then scare the blazes out of everyone on the road. Already have insurance, so you are covered. See you at Fun & Sun.
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Good deal Fred, glad I’m off the road. Does your bus come with snowchains?
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I was very fortunate last year when I replaced all my lights as there was no corrosion and it was a simple 2-3 hour process. Rotation please! I rotated the picture in both directions in an attempt at proper orientation. Didn’t work!
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Your bus looks great Alvie
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Picture rotated. Wish we could get this problem fixed.
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Thanks Peter! Its a shame we don’t get it out more. Should sell the Florida house so we would have to spend the winter in the bus:)
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So to bring this all back up again 🙂
I am starting to go through my lights and the first one I came to had the grounding screw rusted pretty well to the point I doubt I will get it out with a screw driver.
Using WD40 but will also get some heavier duty penetrating spray.
If that doesn’t work, I am assuming I can do one of a couple things.
1. grind the heads off the rusted screw and simple not use it. Turn the light body so the one good screw that is left will ground the light.
2 Drill out the rusted screw and retap the hole for a new screw. What size drill/tap/screw would be best for this?
My plan is to get all new screws in SS to do this with of course. Just need to find the right screws to do it with, thinking this is something you dont find at many local places, so I am sure the internet is the best place.
On another note, I do have a couple lights that the outer screws seem to spin in place and dont let me get the lights off. Are the outer screws going directly into the skin, or is there something behind the skin that could have come lose and is now spinning around behind the skin (this will of course make it hard to get something to screw into it if/when I get them out).
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Oh and another question.
Bill provided me with some new closed cell foam gaskets. They are the same size as the internal light base and not the same size as the outer light lense (which it seems the original gaskets are). Is this a big deal? Should I make up additional gasket material to fill in the empty outer areas where the lense will be?
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Hmm, seems the majority of the inner screws are rusted beyond being able to remove. My plan is to basically drill them out and use new self tapping screws. Most of them have both screws that are rusted so there is no option to take one out and use just one to put the light in with the ground.
Also need to drill out at east one outer screw as even by applying rear pressure to the lense (pulling the screw out and getting what ever it’s screwed in to potenally stop spinning).
Defenitly more of a job then I was expecting 🙁
Also for some of these lights, I am surprised they are actually working. There is so much rust, I would expect the ground to not be making proper contact.
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Charles those are well nuts that hold light to coach you can get them from Prevost they are rubber with a threaded part inside , they push into the skin and when you put screw in they swell up to keep it tight kind of like the Trans dip stick. With the rubber and the threaded part to turn a swell up the rubber
There are lots of stories out ther about people who started to do the same thing and ran into lots of trouble I have done it to two coaches. Real pain in the ass !!!!!!!!!
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Thanks Peter. Working through some of them is being more then a real pain. After getting into it, Ive determined its a good thing Im doing it. Some of these inner screws are just terrible and it’s requiring me to pretty much drill every one out at this point.
Will see how is the best way to get the well nut out as one lense on the back doesnt want to come off. Im not going to give up and in the end I will feel better that Ive replaced not only all the lights and lenses, but also all the screws with stainless steel screws.
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