-
LED Marker Lights
-
Dick,
Same location he just drilled 3/16 holes in the skin. 3/16 is much larger than was needed. I guess he thought “Let the next guy worry about it “. -
Steve: Not that I would have done it, but why would pop rivets be wrong in that location? A smaller rivet (maybe with a large head) could have been used. If the outside holes have the stainless steel screws on the well nuts, wouldn’t that be enough for firmly secure the clam shell, bases with LEDs, and the lenses?
-
Dick,
The main reason I would never use a rivet is, if you loose a light away from your shop, you might have a time changing it. It is a pretty easy task to turn out a screw but not everyone can drill out a rivit. And if you can do it on the road, you also need rivits and a rivit gun to install the new one. The rivit fix on my coach was a “lets getter done quick” kind of deal. As if the lights would never have to be replaced. The rivit also broke the fixture if you look close. As far as did it work, yes it did, but it was a riggin in my opinion. And yes “Riggin” is a word like “Wallerd”
Steve
-
The problem is less about the methods others have used to repair or replace a light, but more about the selection of steel screws instead of either stainless steel sheet metal screws, or the use of threaded nutserts or similar items with machine threads and stainless machine screws.
We all get involved in unplanned projects because we attempt to repair or improve something such as the side marker lights and find we have encountered a situation that needs immediate repair or at least attention.
Should this be added to the list which now includes mirrors, CACs, CAC hoses, cracking plastic on H3 bay doors, skin delam, etc?
-
Yes sir, it should..
-
My bus is a 95 XL Chassis and it reads nearly 12 volts from ground to the blade the bulb is touching with the bus not running, the key not on but the running lights switched on.. That means the running lights are 12 volt not 24, right?
Also the three lights I looked at had no gasket under the between the plastic light and the metal bracket. Not normal?
Davy
-
I do not know the chassis year when outside lights all becamse 12 volt, but prior to that change which I think was in the early 90’s (,maybe you guys can narrow it down) only the headlights were 12 volt, but after that time all exterior lights were 12 volt.
My 87 was all 24 except headlights, my 97 was all 12 volt lighting.
-
Steve: I noticed the cracked fixture and thought that even if a rivet was an acceptable solution, the older the fixture is, the more likely it is to be brittle and prone to cracking. Not that tightening it might not also crack the fixture.
I have a friend whose nickname is “I’ll Rig Something Up”. So I understand “riggin”.
In this part of Wisconsin, we freely use the term “hack” or “hack job”.
-
Davy,
All of my stainless Prevost fixtures have a foam gasket and a foam gasket under the light fixture its self. The ones behind the stainless Prevost fictures are no more than a 1/8″ foam tape. We use it here at the HVAC shop all the time. The ones under the light I would assume are from the light company…
Steve
Dick,
Since this is a “PC” community and a family show, I will pass on the other things I call a “riggin”………….
-
I cut new gasgets for the side markers from a roll of natural rubber we’ve had laying around for years. One of those things you keep just because “you might need it some day” I only have about 1000 feet of it left. The lights just did not use very much.
My lights are 24 volt and they stopped making them in this style in LED. I bought up the last ones they had. Just enough to do the bus, plus a couple of spares.
-
All 25 are on and working, It was a fun little project, that until I got into it, I really didn’t know how bad it needed to be done. The old fixtures were in terrible shape from corrosion. In fact I can not believe they were all still burning but every one of them were. To do this job would be a long day or day and a half as long as no “Riggers” have had their hands on the project before. The new fixtures being LED’s should last much longer than the originals. The printed circut boards were epoxied in 100% and water should not affect them. The electrical connection is the only thing that might be a worry. I used the correct size butt connectors and heat srink tube. All of the connectictions I worked back inside the bus so there was no connection inside the light housing. Of course keeping water out from behind the stainless panels is very important also. I had a couple of gaskets that were questionable but I used a dab of clear silicone to repair them.
That with the exception of the 5 under the front bumber. I had to work the connection behind the light fixture. If I didn’t do that the connection would be inside the spoiler under the bus and subject to more water and corrosion. I would recommend talking to Bill “the chrome man” about getting you the new gaskets that fit behind the lights. The gaskets behind the prevost fixtures can be made from 1/8″ X 2″ foam tape that you can find at a box store or your local HVAC shop.
I would suggest you take a look at your old marker lights if you have not already converted them. I would be willing to bet if you have a vintage coach and have not been changed they are in very poor shape. I will put a materials and tools list on my next post and hope it may be helpful to other here.
I can not tell you all how this forum and the find folks here have helped me with this new STEAP learning curve I am trying to master.
Steve
-
Does Bill “The Chrome Man” have the gaskets that go behind the clamshell fixtures?
I have heard of two kinds of “foam” over the years. “Closed cell” and “open cell”. I’ve pulled a couple of my marker lights off and what I presume is the original foam was somewhat water logged. “Open cell” foam?????
Does the kind of foam make a difference?
-
What is needed to up grade all of your lower marker lights on your XL45 coach.
25 LED light conversions from Bill the Chrome Man. 23 amber, 2 red.
25 Gaskets
50 #8/24 X 11/4″ Stainless machine screws (to replace the inside plated ones.Most will be corroded.
25 16/22 guage butt connectors (pink) the blue ones are too big although you will find them inside the lights.
1 bag of 3/16 heatshrink tubing. Use this on every electrical connection to help keep out water.
Penitrating oil, for corroded screws. Some will break off.
Tap Set to clean or chase threads and to tap up to 10/24 if you have too
Drill set. only if you have to drill some screws out.
Wire strippers,wire cutters,screwdrivers, vicegrip pliers, misc hand tools.
Once you pry the old outside cover off you will be able to see if the inside screws are corroded. Wether they are or not spray the penitrating oil on them now. 99% of these screws will be corroded where they go through the stainless. Work the back and forth (left and right) hoping they will loosen. Add more oil. Work them out very slowly because some of mine where not 1/64″ where they are corroded and will break of so easy. If you break one off or it is so corroded you can’t get your screwdriver on it you will have to break the plastic housing into pieces and remove it. I did this with a set of side cutters. Just kept breaking the light up till you can remove it. Cut the wire close to the old fixture and remove the bulbs and sockets. Then remove the inside gasket. Add more oil. Now there is nothing but the stainless Prevost light guard and the corroded screws. If you broke one off, you will have to remove the Prevost light guard and gasket. This will let you get to the broken off screw. Get a super tight grip on the screw head with the vicegrip pliers and turn back and forth easy. Keep in mind break one off where you can not get ahold of it with the vicegrips..then we have another problem…… I was able to get all but one out like this. If you do break it off close enough to the stanless that you can not get ahold of it, you will have to drill it out and tap it to a 10/24 machine screw. That is what I did. It worked fine just cost me a trip to the hardware store for a bigger screw. The reassembly is relatively easy. Make sure your butt connectors are tight, don’t forget your heatsrink tubing, and start your outside screws slowly. Don’t use any drills or power drivers. I was able to salvage every one but one of the well nuts that holds on the outside cover. If you do ruin one and you can not find one(well nut), a very tight fitting nylon sheet rock anchor will do the job. Run your 8/24 tap throught the anhcor before trying to thread the screw. These screws provide no ground they only hold on the outside cover.
I hope this helps someone.
Steve
-
Dick,
Closed cell foam is what you want. Open cell is like a sponge…….. I don’t know if Bill has the gaskets. I would bet if they exist, he can get them…
Steve
-
Bill is one of our members, has contributed to PC in the past with product and advice. He owns a Prevost. He is the go to man for this issue relating to lights
Log in to reply.