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LED coach Lights
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I have replaced all the halogen bulbs inside Olivia with LED’s. the 2-pin disk type LED’s can be purchased for under $10 per LED. I bought mine on Amazon but eBay is just as good a source. I like Amazon because I get points on my card and Amazon is easy to deal with when you need to return something.
Anybody want a bag full of halogen bulbs cheap? … 🙂
Cheers,
Ronald
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Ronald,
What color / glow did you use ?
Can you adjust ?
Our coach has push button electric dimable features, along with a master control button.
Thanks, AL
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Hi,
By anychance what were model numbers at amazon.I would like to try
Thanks
Karl
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Try one of these. Some are dimmable. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-bi-pin/filter/Base,G4,1,3377:
Or try eBay for non dimmable warm white ones for less than $2 each.
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One problem is sorting out what will work. Mine are 24 volt which means normal range of voltage is as low as 24 and as high as 28.2 so I need LEDs rated for at least 30 volts.
Then there is the issue of output. Without trying a bunch to verify we don’t know the required output. The LED replacements are rated as equivalent to XX watts or XXX lumens but we don’t know what that means because we have no standards for the halogen bulbs for output available.
12 volt bulbs are dirt cheap but 24 volt, not so cheap.
That doesn’t consider issues like dimming and polarity. The heat from halogen bulbs along with the power they consume makes a changeover to LEDs a very good project, but when available 24 volt LEDs are in the $10 plus range it can be very expensive. Would I rather have a new tire or a tank of fuel? Or LEDs?
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Well, that tank of fuel will disappear and that tire will require replacement.
Looks like those LED lights are a better investment…
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Paul, Paul, Paul……….If I don’t buy the tire or fill the tank I won’t be going anywhere so I can enjoy the LEDs. It is a real conundrum.
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http://www.g4leds.com/24v-g4-led-lamp.html
Here Jon, pick your less than $5 a disc 24V LED. Buy one warm white high lumen rated replacement and check it out. The 12V ones I bought dirt cheap appeared the same color and nearly the same brilliance.
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Remember the Chicken and the Egg thing……..which came first.
If I put the fuel in and don’t have good tires, where am I going?
If you have good tires but no fuel……..well somebody will get it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Gil…I would dearly love to change my 24v tailights and front directionals to LED . Looking at that web page,I saw some great prices,but don’ see how I could implement them without a major change in each light fixture. Mine all feed the incandescent bulb from the side of the fixture and radiate around a curved base. If my info is right,an LED shines in a straight line,thus probably not making that much difference for what I am after. Any thoughts?
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Rodger, check out autolumination.com for type of replacement bulbs you need for your turn signals. They have many bases and configurations for automotive type bulbs, although most are for 12v rather than 24 so you need to check the specs carefully. I think you will find a configuration with both the base and the shape for proper output that you need. Note that if you replace your incandescent turn signal bulbs you may need to add resistors to the system or change your flashers or else you will get the fast blink. I replaced all the marker lights on my XL from this site and they worked great. I did not change the turn signals, but that was only because I had about a dozen of the incandescents on hand. I have some of these in my Jeep also.
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Bryan, how “Fast” is fast? Would I not want a fast flash, or is it so fast that it nullifies the bright effect? I have always been less than happy with their incandescent brilliance even to the point of using new lense covers.What color LED’s did you use? If I use bright white,and keep the lens covers,or use same color as lenses?
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Rodger,
You have some choices on how to have LED tail lights. As for the front turn signals I’d just go with an LED replacement bulb. Look at the front turn signal fixture and determine how the light is directed and the placement of the reflector. Try to find a replacement that has LEDs pointing in the direction you need the light directed as well as LEDs pointed at the reflector. The more and brighter LEDs the better.
I would not take the same route for the lights on the rear of the coach given they are so critical.
The best option is to find a direct replacement fixture witha lot of LEDs and the brighter the better. That may be easier said than done; especially when looking for 24V. I really liked these and they operate at 24V. http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=1&fId=57&pId=3027 You can get chrome bezels for them as well. If I wanted to make my project a bit more work, I would have went with these. I will be using this for my 3rd brake light.
I don’t recommend LED replacement bulbs for these lights based on every review I’ve read found they weren’t as bright as the original bulbs. This has to do with the directionality of LEDs and that they can’t take full advantage of the fixture’s reflector. What I was considering was the LED panels. My thought was to find a panel that fills the lens to the greatest extend possible with the maximum number of LEDs. I would affix this to the inside of the lens and use a bulb adapter. The problem with this thought is that I could never find a two stage panel to support tail lights and brighter brake lights. I even considered doing what Prevost does and have some fixtures dedicated to tail lights and some to brake lights and use panels with more LEDS for brakes lights than the ones for tail lights. I could have just made the panels, but really didn’t want to take the time to do so.
You should look at what it might take to convert your rear lights to 12V. It may be easier than you think. The brake light relay is in the box above my engine. The relay could remain activated by 24V with 12V feeding the load side of the relay. You could easily add 24V relays for tail lights and turn signals and run 12V on the load side. Then there’s the question of where to get 12V from. If your chassis battery has an equalizer to supply 12V then you have a convient source. If you do not I would not recommend using house 12V for this critical chassis requirement. Here’s a post that defines a voltage regulator that would work. I would dedicate a regulator to each function, tail lights, stop lights, and turn signals.
http://prevostcommunity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Electrical&ThreadID=1384
Here’s my LED rear lights.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOvHdR6b4bA
The comment about the signals flashing too fast because there’s not enough load can happen. It didn’t in my case. If it does, it’s easily overcome.
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Rodger, I used LED’s of the color of the lens in the markers. the site I mentioned has bayonet base bulbs that run on 24 volts. They are cylindrical and have LEDs on the top and all around the cylinder. I believe these will fit in your fixtures and should reflect well from the reflectors. I would by one and test the brightness, As Gil indicates, they may still be too dim.
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Have any Vantare owners out there changed their interior halogens to LED’s?
We have started the process, but have run into a couple of snags.
The first four we changed out were in the salon ceiling, right side.
After changing one we switched them on and tried dimming them….the LED worked great on the high and med setting….but went completely out for the low setting. After changing the second one the dimming returned to normal for all 4 lights, which at that time were 2 halogen and 2 LED’s.
After changing light 3 & 4, the dimming function was really screwed up…..lights stayed full bright for high & med setting when dimmed slightly on the low setting.
We ended up putting 2 halogens back. Now all 4 work properly….but only 2 of the 4 are LED.
Any thoughts on what is causing this?
Thanks!
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