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Thanks, Jon. I did measure voltage on the two main battery lugs but I did not write that figure down. (I usually check those lugs first just to make sure my meeter is reading.) The 27.6 was on the “battery” screw on the voltage regulator. The 28.3 is on the alternator itself. I will turn the regulator down some more before I roll today and report back.
Davy
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That says to me that the voltage regulator does not need to be adjusted. If it is “reading” the voltage you measure at the battery terminal it is doing it’s thing properly. The problem I would surmise is the wire or connections between the voltage regulator and the battery wire source might have some corrosion or resistance. If the regulator was reading the 28+ volts you measured at the alternator on the battery wire it would adjust the voltage downward. As it is now it just “thinks” the alternator output is 27.6
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Keep in mind:
1) There is a slight voltage drop(.5v to 1v?) thru a battery isolator.
2) Proper float voltage for AGM batteries is less than for wet cell lead acid.(13.7? vs 14.2? – ask Tom or Lifeline)
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Wet and AGM settings are very close. Many inverters without an AGM setting use the wet setting. Float for Lifeline should be about 13.4 at 70 degree’s and lead acid would be 13.6.
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Thanks all for the education. One question. Where do you adjust alternator output? I have the same 24v – to – isolator arrangement. Thanks
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The adjustment I am talking about is on the external voltage regulator I replaced recently.
Don, you are correct. When the voltage from the alternator to the isolator was 28.3 the voltage out either side of the isolator to the chassis batteries and the house batteries was about .5 volts lower.
Davy
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Davy, sounds like it is set correct, adjusting regulator from the battery terminal reading. As stated you can seethe loss of voltage through the isolator.
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