[Dick]

Dick wrote: “So you left the same wires for the remotes in and just repurposed them.”

When I did the remote swap on mine, it was Plug & Play. Used the same wires, fit in the same holes, no modification(s) needed.

[Archived]

Hey Dick,

Just to give You a heads up. If You replace with a new Magnum. They have a Hybrid inverter that is setup to use solar panels also. Might be a few years before there is a viable option for Our coach’s. But You would be ready for them.

Bsafe,

Rocky

[Harry]

BDuplan and Jon: That is a good idea. How can I check the 120volts at the inverter? I’ve got the notion that Liberty has routed each 120volt leg through the inverter, so there should be a place where the 120volts in is hooked up and a place there 120volts out is hooked up. Is that inside the inverter? Should I take the cover off to see those connection points and check the voltage there?

Tom: Good point on how the on/off switches on the inverters and the remotes should be set. As illogical as it seemed to me and inspite of there being NO placarding on the inverter telling an ordinary pleb how the switch should be configured when remotes are used. Fortunately however, that was one of the things I remember from the orientation Jeff Rowe gave me when I picked up the then new to us coach.

BDuplan, I took your link. Lots of interesting information there. But someone has absconded with the pictures. Thanks for the help.

To the others who have responded: I’ve found a used unit from a reliable source. I’m leaning towards swapping that out with the apparently failed one. Once I’ve done this comprehensive 120volt test, I should be close to a final decision. Thanks again for the help!!!!!

[Jim/Chris]

Dick,

Remember, they made both 12 and 24v inverters, your’s being a Lady is probably 24.

[Kirby]

I think I explained it on this thread or another, but here is how Liberty routed power to and from your inverter.

Any power to the 120V panel is routed to the inverter input circuits through the battery charger #1 and 2 circuit breakers.

Let’s assume battery charger #1 CB controls power input to the inverter. That model has two inputs and Liberty came from the breaker with 2 3 wire cables, one will be connected to the inverter input which becomes pass through power back to the inverter circuit breakers and the second cable is connected to the battery charger input.

There is a third cable connected to the 120V side of the inverter and that is the power that energizes the circuits that are dead on your coach.

When you do not have shore or generator power the input to the inverter is the battery cables which creates via the inverter the 120VAC to the previously mentioned circuits.

I think the cables connect via wire nuts on that model to wires that are shown as to their purpose so you will not be dealing with any mysteries. My first reaction would be to verify the switch position on the front panel ad if it is in the off position it is as it should be. Then I would open the case and verify the inputs are “hot”. If they are th issue is with the inverter. If they are not hot then you have to find out why you show power to the circuit at the panel, but not at the inverter.

[Raymond]

I was thinking about this a bit more. If the 120V into the invertor is not hot, then the invertor should start inverting, using DC battery power to power those 4 circuits.

The input was wire nutted and electrical taped on our ’98 conversion.

Sorry about the pictures. Photobucket has taken everyone’s media hostage. I’ll try to re-link them.

[DON]

I checked the shore power outlet and had about 122 volts on both legs.

With the shore power unplugged, the generator OFF, and all the 12 and 24 master switches in the electrical bay OFF I loosened the #1 Inverter from its mooring, removed the cover, and examined what is behind the curtains of the inverter.

Since I’ve got a working replacement inverter on its way, I decided to not unhook the incoming 120volt wiring to check income voltage. I’ll do that when I have the replacement inverter and have the wires unhooked then.

Just as a previous poster observed, the 120volt wires are wire nutted and taped. Could the tape be shrink wrap? Or could the wire nuts and wires painted with liquid shrink wrap?

I am a little disappointed that the manufacturer is apparently using wire nuts to make the connections. I’m not a master electrician or an electrical engineer, but I would have expected some kind of clamping device to make the 120 volt connections. Maybe taped/shrink wrapped wire nuts are a better connection.

Here are some pictures of what I found:

[Mike]

Wire nuts used correctly are certainly an acceptable way to join the wires. Electricians tape, shrink tubing or any other means to protect the connection is going to be OK, but keep in mind that is a service connection so don’t do something that may end up forcing you to cut wires the next time.

[Harry]

Whether its a big thing or little tiny details, Jon’s advice and counsel is almost always enlightening.

[Archived]

Almost?

[Archived]

Why doesn’t my wife think I provide good advice?

[Bernard]

I have found a replacement inverter/charger that should be identical or close to what I have. Its being tested before being sent to me. I needed to use the coach at Road America this weekend and needed the refrigerator before I’d have the replacement in hand.

Jeff Rowe talked me through how to bypass the failed inverter so that the circuit the refrigerator was on would have power from either shore power or the generator. Was pretty easy. Worked great without smoke, fire, melted insulation, breakers tripping, or relays continuously snapping!

I’ll post some pictures of what I did in a separate thread when I get caught up with some other projects.