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  • Gerald

    Member
    June 14, 2018 at 9:15 am

    Thank you DT for taking all the guess work out of this!

    Just out of curiosity, why a stud and a bolt? I know a stud will maintain integrity when tightened for a more accurate torque value over a bolt but Detroit gives a 5 ft/lb window for a torque spec. From the picture above it looks like bolts work for holding the bracket on to the gear case.

  • Kirby

    Member
    June 15, 2018 at 9:31 am

    Put the stiffeners on yesterday, Went to John Deer tractor dealer got the bolts for the heads I needed the 1 1/2 long metric 10.9 hard bolts and hardware store for the grade 8 5 inches long by 7/16 bolts for the case torqued bolts down as spec. Thanks for the tips on the brackets.

  • Archived

    Member
    June 18, 2018 at 2:21 pm

    Art,

    I have a question for you. I see by the pics that the brackets are obviously secure. You mentioned the bolts were 7/16 and I see they have nuts holding them on. Was your bracket on the RH side not threaded (on the 2 bolts going through the gear case)? My bracket is threaded with what looks to be 3/8 or M10 but definitely not 7/16. That would be too big to go through the gear case holes I would think…

    Not making this harder than it is, I just don’t have the right bolts yet.

  • Harry

    Member
    June 18, 2018 at 8:17 pm

    I did this upgrade in April 2018 and I matched up the 2 threaded holes in the bracket at the hardware store to verify the bolt thread size. I used two 7/16, grade 8 fasteners, a little Loctite 242, and no nuts. (I just checked the bracket install at the coach a few minutes ago) For the bolt on the single hole end of the bracket I reused the existing bolt and it is metric. If you want to add nuts to the threaded portion of the bolt that sticks out of the bracket facing forward you will need longer bolts than I used which were 5in long.

    Of course, your mileage may vary.

  • Harry

    Member
    June 18, 2018 at 9:46 pm

    Yes I torqued the 5 inch long by 7/16 then I put lock tight and some lock nuts on, the threaded part stuck out so the nuts cleaned it up

  • Art

    Member
    June 19, 2018 at 9:18 am

    Rather than sitting at my desk on my computer arguing with everyone, I should have been threading a 7/16 bolt into the bracket.

    Thanks for the help.

  • Archived

    Member
    June 20, 2018 at 11:31 am

    This will give you all the parts you need to do the install. P/N DDE 23529492, I order it from W.W. Williams for $700. I included some pictures.

  • Greg

    Member
    June 20, 2018 at 5:20 pm

    Good post Todd, I sure paid way more than that.

  • Jerry

    Member
    June 20, 2018 at 5:50 pm

    Tom I didnt want to say anything but I paid a lot more than that buying everything separate too.

  • Archived

    Member
    June 29, 2018 at 4:39 pm

    Shipped to my door for <$90

  • Gerald

    Member
    June 30, 2018 at 11:46 am

    I’m about to install the same kit. There are some extra parts like the adel clamp, the 3rd small angle bracket and the smaller bolts. Where do these go? Are these there just to account for the different installations over the years?

    Gerald

  • Kirby

    Member
    July 1, 2018 at 9:30 am

    I looked at my friends 06 Prevost Legendery and the Detroit 60 is different I think it is a 515 hp but where I installed the brackets its different?

  • Archived

    Member
    July 1, 2018 at 10:23 am

    I installed the kit yesterday and used only the two long bolts from the kit. The holes in the long bracket are already threaded, no need for nuts, I reused the bolt from the existing short bracket.

    When I took off the air pipe to the turbo to get better access, the Donaldson air filter minder fell off. Its base had become very brittle. I replaced with a 1/8 inch pipe plug temporarily and ordered one of the newer type Donaldson filter minders. Checked pipe for dust and turbo for free rotation and no play. All good.

  • Harry

    Member
    July 1, 2018 at 1:09 pm

    I assume there isn’t a need to install this bracket kit on 60 series engines manufactured after 2001. I guess they somehow incorpofated this fix into the engine structure? If you have a 2002 Prevost, you probably have a 2001 engine.

    Here’s a link for the DDC Service Info Letter No1 TS-18:

    http://ddcsn-ddc.freightliner.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/01ts18.pdf

  • Gerald

    Member
    July 1, 2018 at 1:11 pm

    Gerald,

    The cable clamp is to secure the oil return from the alternator and would go over the stud on the longest bolt supplied, however no 7/16″ nut is included in the kit for that purpose. Small angle bracket replaces one on the turbo side that supports the down pipe. Two of the small bolts and one nut are for that purpose. The large flange nut included is for the supplied 7/16″ bolt to secure the new turbo-side bracket. It is thicker than the original stamped one and so the bolt is longer. It is also larger in diameter, perhaps to allow a higher torque value. The other smaller bolts that secure the brackets to the head are longer than original ones to compensate for the additional thickness of the new brackets.

    I ordered my kit through Pacific Power as Williams did not answer the phone and did not bother to return my call. PP had it in stock and shipped it the next day.

    I did not have to remove any piping to access the installation although it would have been easier to see the turbo-side install.

    Doug

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